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Clutch woes

Grommit327

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
1,473
Location
Buckley
Other day my clutch pedal starting acting up on me not returning all the way. So I checked the fluid and low and behold the MC had run down to where it was close to sucking air. Filled it up but didn't bleed it because I was in a hurry and the clutch actually got worse. So when I got a chance I bled the system and it's still horrible. I can't figure out where a whole reservoir of fluid would disappear to...don't see any leaks out of the system. And I noticed when I bled the system the fluid was nasty dark gray colored with a lot of metal dust in it. Anyways the clutch feels good when you pump it but as soon as you put it in gear the clutch pedal gets sucked to the floor and there is just enough clutch disengagement to keep the truck from moving. I am going to try re-bleeding it tomorrow and see what happens but it's got me stumped so far
 
Did you look at the inside of the firewall where the cylinder attaches on the other side?
Yep...not a drop of fluid coming out of the system anywhere. I am lost at this point...I need to figure a way to flush the old fluid out though as it is horrible looking.
 
Co-worker just had something similar with his 4runner! He ended up putting in a new slave cyl, and a the hydraulic hose. He says it's running good now! The parts are not that $.
 
Did lots of research on TTORA and it looks like it's the master. Seems a common problem on the early tacomas and explains the dirty/metal flake fluid in the reservoir
 
Found out a good tip for bench bleeding the master from the parts guy at Toyota. Leave the little rubber plug in the outlet that comes with it and fill up the reservoir. Use one hand to hold the MC and use your thumb to hold the plug in. Move the piston back and forth and you will see air bubbles come up in the reservoir. Do this until there are no more bubbles and the piston won't compress any more. Then place the MC and screw in the line and bleed as normal...worked awesome!
 
Found out a good tip for bench bleeding the master from the parts guy at Toyota. Leave the little rubber plug in the outlet that comes with it and fill up the reservoir. Use one hand to hold the MC and use your thumb to hold the plug in. Move the piston back and forth and you will see air bubbles come up in the reservoir. Do this until there are no more bubbles and the piston won't compress any more. Then place the MC and screw in the line and bleed as normal...worked awesome!

Or you could just use a power bleeder. :redneck: Hell, I use mine to completely empty the system when I'm working on the brakes, no mess when disconnecting stuff or pushing pistons back in.

You gonna be ready to wheel in 2 weeks? :popcorn:
 
Or you could just use a power bleeder. :redneck: Hell, I use mine to completely empty the system when I'm working on the brakes, no mess when disconnecting stuff or pushing pistons back in.

You gonna be ready to wheel in 2 weeks? :popcorn:
Ha...ha...ha

This truck needs lotsa help before I'll wheel it. New rear springs, finish antiwrap bar, tires, new locking hub, relocate battery...the list goes on and on it seems like :D

I'm hoping to have it ready by the time 4WPW has their tire sale in December
 
Ha...ha...ha

This truck needs lotsa help before I'll wheel it. New rear springs, finish antiwrap bar, tires, new locking hub, relocate battery...the list goes on and on it seems like :D

I'm hoping to have it ready by the time 4WPW has their tire sale in December

Well you better get it fixed so we can wheel before I tear mine apart. :fawkdancesmiley:
 
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