couple toyota questions

[Cole1]

Im on the last leg of finishing my truck and have a couple questions for you guys since google is not helping me out.

The first issue im having is figuring out how to hook up my alt. to my battery. The truck is an 80' toyota pickup with a 22R out of an 84' I belive the alternator on the truck is externally regulated. How do I go about hooking up an external regulator and where does the charging wire go on the alteranator?

Next question is how do you bleed the power steering systems in these trucks? I did crossover steering with an IFS box out of a 93' toyota I believe. Can I just lift the front tires and work the steering back and forth lock to lock to get the air out? Does the truck need to be running or not?

Thanks, Cole

 

[stealthrunner1]

Im on the last leg of finishing my truck and have a couple questions for you guys since google is not helping me out.

The first issue im having is figuring out how to hook up my alt. to my battery. The truck is an 80' toyota pickup with a 22R out of an 84' I belive the alternator on the truck is externally regulated. How do I go about hooking up an external regulator and where does the charging wire go on the alteranator?

Next question is how do you bleed the power steering systems in these trucks? I did crossover steering with an IFS box out of a 93' toyota I believe. Can I just lift the front tires and work the steering back and forth lock to lock to get the air out? Does the truck need to be running or not?

Thanks, Cole

The first question:scratchhead::scratchhead: The second one...fill it up cycle the steering on jack stands 25 times..not started, top the res. off again..start it let it run for a bit..check fluid level...cycle the steering back and forth watching the fluid level...if it foams shut it off let it settle the foam out check level..start up cycle slow untill the level doesn't change... let the rig down ...and it should be good...that's what i have done with power steering/ hydo-assist and the full hydro on the F-Toy....:;

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Since the second Q was answered by Bill, Ill do the first.

I have no clue how to wire a toyota alternator. Im sure I could but I dont care to. I would put a cheap chevy alternator on that pig and be done.

Toyota charging systems suck. GM kick ass and is cheeeap too.

 

[skinny_pedal]

Since the second Q was answered by Bill, Ill do the first.

I have no clue how to wire a toyota alternator. Im sure I could but I dont care to. I would put a cheap chevy alternator on that pig and be done.

Toyota charging systems suck. GM kick ass and is cheeeap too.

So you offered your opinion but know help to his question? Not everyone wants to run GM on there Toyota. Many a folk have had no problem running there Toyota junk under heavy load.

 

[Cole1]

Since the second Q was answered by Bill, Ill do the first.

I have no clue how to wire a toyota alternator. Im sure I could but I dont care to. I would put a cheap chevy alternator on that pig and be done.

Toyota charging systems suck. GM kick ass and is cheeeap too.

Ive been looking into the GM 1 wire alt since then I dont have to worry about an external reg. It would be nice to wire up the toyota one for now until I make the move to the GM. hence the question.

I would go with the GM now if I found one for cheap and I had the skill to make the bracket or I could justbuy the TG kit:corn:

 

[k2blazen]

I have all the brackets/alt $50 in tacoma if ur interested...:corn:

 

[TRG4runner]

Since the second Q was answered by Bill, Ill do the first.

I have no clue how to wire a toyota alternator. Im sure I could but I dont care to. I would put a cheap chevy alternator on that pig and be done.

Toyota charging systems suck. GM kick ass and is cheeeap too.

I like how he sets it up as though he is going to help answer the question, then just pulls an Obama.

 

[Cole1]

I have all the brackets/alt $50 in tacoma if ur interested...:corn:

Pm sent your way:awesomework:

Time to go try and bleed the PS now

 

[TRG4runner]

Time to go try and bleed the PS now

You'll soon find out it's pretty darn easy.:awesomework:

 

[Cole1]

Yeah it was pretty easy but i get impatient sometimes so going slow lock to lock sucked but its all free of air.

I started messing with the Alt. to see if I could make a temporary fix so it would charge but im unsucessful as of right now. The Dash is complete and ive double/triple checked every bolt so hopefully I can take her for a little spin in the development tonight.

If I cant get the alt. to charge today or tomorrow im gonna meet up with mike and go GM and be done with it:awesomework:

Also when Chop Shop set up my gears he told me the proper way to break them in but I forgot what it was since it was a couple months ago. Could you point me in the right direction Brad?

Thanks for the help guys. Finally nice to be almost done after 8 months, its time for some snow wheeling:011::masturbanana[1]::beer:

 

[Torrance]

i heard some gm 1 wires only start charging over 1000-1100 rpms . just use a normal gm one. there still really easy to wire up. make sure you take the plug when your getting one.

 

[Cole1]

Im picking up the alt. and TG bracket off Mike(K2lazen) tomorrow. Its the 3 wire alt. so you just need to jump one of the plug wires to the charging wire and it becomes a 1 wire from what I understand. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[FastEddy]

go her figured out huh wait till you see the shop give ya a jingle tommorow

 

[SLIPPY]

what style plug? on the L shape rectangular plug style there is 3 wires that come out, all of which go to the regulator. the power wire goes to the stud/nut. i believe there is 5 wires that come out of the regulator. the 2 non matching colors(i think red/white or red black) go to the distributor

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Im picking up the alt. and TG bracket off Mike(K2lazen) tomorrow. Its the 3 wire alt. so you just need to jump one of the plug wires to the charging wire and it becomes a 1 wire from what I understand. Can anyone confirm this?

yep there are two wires on a plug and one post for the large + charge wire.

Run the large wire tot he battery and then one of the wires in the plug gets a ring terminal and just looped to the post on the back, that will excite it all the time.

read here for good break in info.

http://www.4x4now.com/gt0999.htm

 

[super samurai]

I run a one wire on my buggy and yes it starts to charge over 1000 rpm and then continues to charge. How often would you start your rig and never go above 1000rpms? It does not stop charging if it drops below that rpm once it has reached 1000. The three wire one are the same but with a tickler instead of a manual tickler.

 

[Cole1]

I run a one wire on my buggy and yes it starts to charge over 1000 rpm and then continues to charge. How often would you start your rig and never go above 1000rpms? It does not stop charging if it drops below that rpm once it has reached 1000. The three wire one are the same but with a tickler instead of a manual tickler.

Could you explain how it charges a little further? How long do you need to run it abouve 1000rmp for it to keep charging when you let the motor idle? Can you just atart the truck and rev it up then when it comes back to idle it will charge?

Sorry for the stupid question Im just alittle confused after reading that post:eeek:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Could you explain how it charges a little further? How long do you need to run it abouve 1000rmp for it to keep charging when you let the motor idle? Can you just atart the truck and rev it up then when it comes back to idle it will charge?

Sorry for the stupid question Im just alittle confused after reading that post:eeek:

The alternator wont "turn on" until you reach 1000 rpms.

That means it is on after that until\l it stops spinning. Its not going to stop charging just cuz you let it idle.

The easiest way to keep an eye on the charging status of a GM alternator with no gauge or fancy tester is to use a wrench or chunk of steel or flatbar.

The back of the gm alt has a nipple with the bearing and shaft sticking out the back thats about an inch around. If the thing is spinning and changing a chunk of steel with stick (magnet) to the nipple/shaft on the back.

If charging good it will hold a 1/2 or smaller wrench on by itself. If not charging = no magnet, no wrench stuck to nipple.

 

[Cole1]

Thanks Brad for clearing that up for me. I think I just got confused after I read Super Sami's post.

Seems pretty straight forward with wireing it up and charging.....hopefully I can meet up with Mike sooner in the morning so I can get it in the truck:awesomework:

 

[super samurai]

Sorry for the rambling, but most people think it dont charge at idle! Its not true,as brad said, once it reachs 1000 rpm once it is started it will continue to chage at any idle till it is turned off.
The best part is you can get a 100 amp alt for the same as a stock yota alt. The 3 wire is the same as a one wire accept it has a 12 volt wire ti excite it to charge as soon as it starts and another wire for an idiot light.