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Dual Batterys or High Amp Alternator?

chickenwing

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Dec 28, 2008
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everett
So the rig is a 89 Cherokee. Its got a brand new red top and ebay spacial
"120amp" alternator:redneck:. But when I run my heater on high and wipers on the headlights dim. The volt meater drops around 10 volts. Drops even more when I use my winch. I checked the alternator and its putting out 13 volts. I am planning on adding some lights up front and 4 rock lights. So what should I do? Buy a better alternator and if so which one? Or add another red top and all the stuff to do it the right way. :eeek:
 
I have been running a 90 amp alt and 1 red top for over 10 years and winch like mad....(big rocks...little Jeep)
Make sure the alt cable to the bat is big and run stuff like winch too the bat with good cable, eng block for grounds
 
I run a dedicated ground wire to the winch, body, and the engine ground is ran to a bolt on the starter since it is a high amp draw. I've never had an issue. Most factory grounds are way too small and chances are the connections are not good. Check all your grounds and I'm sure you will see a difference.:corn:
 
I did both, good high output alt + dual redtops.

I use dual Redtops because I sometimes use a ReadyWelder2. Also, I like having the 1820 amps to winch if the motor is off.
 
like every one said, properly sized power lead, good grounds.
if its a 120a, is it a universal 1 wire? they dont usualy " mkick in" until 1500rpm

if you are seeing voltage drop while eng is running, the you have charge issues. 120a@14v=1680 watts.... lights and heater dont come any wheres neer that...
batterys are for starting, or drain while eng is off.
 
ok I just replaced the ground wire like a month and a half ago and ran that to the block i sanded the block so its nice and clean there. Battery termanials are nice and clean also. So should i run the ground from the winch to the block also? I know that that wont help the draw the heater and wipers put on it. So i just have stock size power wire so should i upgrade that to like 1 gauage or 0 gauage?
 
So the rig is a 89 Cherokee. Its got a brand new red top and ebay spacial
"120amp" alternator:redneck:. But when I run my heater on high and wipers on the headlights dim. The volt meater drops around 10 volts. Drops even more when I use my winch. I checked the alternator and its putting out 13 volts. I am planning on adding some lights up front and 4 rock lights. So what should I do? Buy a better alternator and if so which one? Or add another red top and all the stuff to do it the right way. :eeek:

Heads up. 89 Cherokee is a Renix motor. My 88 cherokee when driving with or without accesories running only shows about 10.5 volts; when it is actually charging at 14.6v. The gauges in those rigs are weird and thats how they work. Every renix 4.0 I have seen is like this.
 
Heads up. 89 Cherokee is a Renix motor. My 88 cherokee when driving with or without accesories running only shows about 10.5 volts; when it is actually charging at 14.6v. The gauges in those rigs are weird and thats how they work. Every renix 4.0 I have seen is like this.

Yup, this---my 89 cherokar does the same thing, been that way for yrs now---and I know everything about the electrical is good....just drives me nuts that the guage reads lower than actual, but I got used to it---kinda.
 
Yup, this---my 89 cherokar does the same thing, been that way for yrs now---and I know everything about the electrical is good....just drives me nuts that the guage reads lower than actual, but I got used to it---kinda.

Heads up. 89 Cherokee is a Renix motor. My 88 cherokee when driving with or without accesories running only shows about 10.5 volts; when it is actually charging at 14.6v. The gauges in those rigs are weird and thats how they work. Every renix 4.0 I have seen is like this.

I was thinkin that the gauage was ****ed up so after i go through and check all my grounds and power wire should i go ahead and wire up a different gauage in it?
 
check everything over first, then---if you are confident it is working properly, and the charge gauge still bugs you, then by all means...
 
So I'm blanning on upgradding the stock power wire to like 1 or 2 gauge wire. And the ground only runs to the block so i was gonna add another wire and run it to somewhere on the body but i was gonna sand the paint so it was metal to metal. And no one ever answered but insted of running the ground for the winch straight to the battery should I run it to the block ground?
Thanks for all the input Im going to go up to the shop this week and start messin with it.
 
Weird.. I just had some charging issues on my cherokee... must be their time of the month. All advice given so far is good. How old is the Alt??
 
Dear chickenwing;
Before decision is to be made on using dual batteries or a higher output alternator, first we must examine both and then ascertain which application would be best suited to your needs.

First, even though batteries and alternators are part of the same charging system, their functions are very different. a storage battery is exactly that, it is a battery that is capable of STORING a voltage potential.

A battery has two different output parameters, it's voltage potential and it's amperage draw (or rating). A typical modern automobile utilizes a 12V negative ground charging system, yet this does not mean that we are bound to using a single 12V battery for it.

For example, we have a single 12V battery that is capable of a 750 amp current draw and next to it is a 6V golf cart battery which is capable of a 1000 amp draw. Which of the two is more powerful? The answer is that the 6V battery is more powerful, yet because it only has the capacity for storing 6V it cannot be used in an automobile. Or, can it?

Certainly, we cannot install a 6V battery in place of a 12V battery, YET we CAN install TWO 6V batteries in parallel with each other and thus we now have in all reality a BIG 12V battery that is capable of drawing 1000 amperes!

We can also install two 12V batteries with a current draw of 750 amps each, and thus have a battery which still has a 750 amp current draw, only it's capable of drawing that 750 amps for twice as long as it could when we were using a single 12V battery.

This would become advantageous when someone is using their winch for extended periods, as twin 12V batteries permit the user to winch for longer periods of time. Of course, this is not taking into consideration the substantial amount of heat that the motor of an electric winch is generating, therefore this must also be taken into consideration, lest the winch motors burns out from extended usage.

Next, the charging system incorporates an alternator. Almost all alternators in a modern automotive charging system are 12V and they are rated by maximum current output in amperes.

In short, if your vehicle has an alternator that has an output of 100 amps, it is capable of charging the vehicle's battery twice as fast as an alternator that puts out 50 amps, and twice as long as an alternator which has a 200 amp output.

A high output alternator becomes necessary whenever a vehicle has many electrical accessories that have a high extended power demand, such as auxiliary lighting or a high output heater.

In cases such as this, a higher output alternator becomes necessary in order for the charging/shortage system to keep pace with the high amperage draw of the accessories. If a higher rater alternator were not used, the demand from the accessories would soon outstrip the alternator' capacity for producing current, thus draining the vehicle's battery in short order.

It sounds like your battery, even though fully charged, is in a weakened state. In other words, it cannot maintain it's current potential, therefore it would be advisable to check it's current draw using a battery load tester, such as the one in the provided link:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/350768/Otc_3180_Battery_Load_Tester

These handy testers are able to determine a battery's state of health by checking it's current draw. Also, it is capable of checking a battery's voltage with the engine not running and the alternator system's state of health with the engine running.
Your friend;
LAMAR
 
Like I said in my post above, run a dedicated ground from the winch to the battery. Do not rely on the winch mount, or ground cable to the block etc for a good ground. :corn:
 
So the rig is a 89 Cherokee. Its got a brand new red top and ebay spacial
"120amp" alternator:redneck:. But when I run my heater on high and wipers on the headlights dim. The volt meater drops around 10 volts. Drops even more when I use my winch. I checked the alternator and its putting out 13 volts. I am planning on adding some lights up front and 4 rock lights. So what should I do? Buy a better alternator and if so which one? Or add another red top and all the stuff to do it the right way. :eeek:

First you need to start by verifieing your alt is actually putting out amperage under the same loads you are seeing the voltage drop on your guage. You could simply have a problem in the blower circuit causing a big voltage drop.
 
First you need to start by verifieing your alt is actually putting out amperage under the same loads you are seeing the voltage drop on your guage. You could simply have a problem in the blower circuit causing a big voltage drop.
Dear Crah;
I agree. First chickenwing needs to know that the alternator is picking up the load. If not, then it becomes a guessing game. That's why I suggested that he get his hands on one of those cheezy battery load testers. I understand that they are not digital and that they don't have all of the neat bells & whistles, but for the non-professional testing of charging systems, they are darned tough to beat.

I've had mine for decades and it still works as advertised. To check the alternator's output, you simply connect the tester's clamps to the + and - terminals of the battery then check the voltage. After starting the vehicle, check the voltage. It should be in the ALTERNATOR OK band which is 13.6 to 14.5 volts.

If the alternator's output is within limits, turn on the accessories one at a time, such as the headlights, then check the meter on the tester. It should not show a drop. If this is so, it means that the alternator has picked up the load. Keep turning on accessories, one at a time and checking the tester's meter after every accessory is turned on. If one or more of the accessories shows a big voltage drop on the tester's meter, that is the problem child and it needs to be addressed. If all accessories are turned on and the alternator output is still within 13.6 to 14.5 volts, the alternator and all accessory circuits are OK.

I know it's a low buck method and that a multimeter will do the exact same thing, only a multimeter does not have a battery load test function and it's for only this reason that I use a battery load tester for troubleshooting purposes.
Your friend;
LAMAR
 
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