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Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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Are you putting a cab on this?

I contemplated my options this weekend and the "only" way I was going to use a cab and that was build what I had before because I REFUSE to run any sort of exo..

So with that said it will be a full tube chassis.
 
Lookin killer. I like the select few that still try to carry out what Jason and Trevor did. Keep up the good work kash
 
If that's a true bravo suspension start preplanning for that front driveshaft. It will get super tight rather quickly, especially if you're trying to stay low.
 
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If that's a true bravo suspension start preplanning for that front driveshaft. It will get super tight rather quickly, especially if you're trying to stay low.

Oh ya I still remember there first car--heck I remember the very first one the gecko that dixon owned...
 
Oh ya I still remember there first car--heck I remember the very first one the gecko that dixon owned...
Mike, Richard can get you straight on the axleshaft driveshafts as he did mine and Chris's. That is unless you got it handled.
 
Mike, Richard can get you straight on the axleshaft driveshafts as he did mine and Chris's. That is unless you got it handled.

That was actually my thoughts to get ahold of richard here soon once I get my links and motor trans 100% in place.
 
That was actually my thoughts to get ahold of richard here soon once I get my links and motor trans 100% in place.
Motor will most likely be offset 1 inch towards drivers side, I also ran a Powermaster 9502 XS starter to give additional clearance. Getting everything to clear took a bit of time, the starter helped quite a bit also. Gave me another inch of uptravel between the driveshaft and starter allowing the motor to stay closer to center and clear everything. I didn't want to run a 2 piece driveshaft and with all the adjustments Richard made it all work.
 
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From last night. Got the motor and trans close to the sweet spot.
 

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Mike, whats the width of your chassis? I assume target wheelbase is around 108-9? Going to run a 2 piece driveshaft in the front? How wide are your axles?
 
Mike, whats the width of your chassis? I assume target wheelbase is around 108-9? Going to run a 2 piece driveshaft in the front? How wide are your axles?

Can't remember any #'s at work :D I have no issues going 2 piece if need be.

WB is like 106.5 and the chassis ID is like 30ish
 
Can't remember any #'s at work :D I have no issues going 2 piece if need be.

WB is like 106.5 and the chassis ID is like 30ish

I had a buddy with Drive slugs and a 2 piece. He hated it. Naches we hit a road and he was stuck doing 15 maybe.
 
Why is the axleshaft driveshaft a need? Looks like you have room to fit a normal 2 piece with pillow block. Something I'm not seeing??
 
Why is the axleshaft driveshaft a need? Looks like you have room to fit a normal 2 piece with pillow block. Something I'm not seeing??
Things are super tight on these chassis. Not a lot of room between the trans to the pinion.
 
Things are super tight on these chassis. Not a lot of room between the trans to the pinion.

I guess I'm not seeing it?? Your gonna have to put some kind of pillow block in.. correct? So why is there not enough room? Things are super tight on every chassis and I don't see this set up, so that's why I ask. Edit.. lol your talking single driveline that's why it wasn't making sense. My vote is 2 piece driveline lol:redneck:
 
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Anybody having issues with vibrations with a 2 piece? I would be willing to guess that with a 2 piece the angles would probably be nowhere to correct.
 
My 2 piece front vibrates like a SOB anything past 30mph in 4wd. Rear 2wd, front drive in neutral, with front hubs locked I don't even notice it. It's the angles i'm working with for the flipped 300 to clear my clutch fork on the 4 speed.

I've debated doing the 1350 axle shaft lately as well. But isn't there still vibes with that at speed? It's an axle shaft not a driveshaft...

My front 2 piece is a 14 bolt pinion with the gear cut off and pressed onto the pillow block. Was an easy choice with a diameter of 1-3/4" no problem finding tube or weld yokes.
 
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With 2 peice driveline it's the angles that cause the vibrations. Saying that if you can keep the angles flat as possible you will have less vibration. I ran axle shaft Driveshafts in my last S&N buggy that were kinda crudely built(but incredibly strong) and I was good to about 45mph then the vibes came on pretty bad. Jantz built me an axle shaft driveshaft in my TJ and I had zero vibration all the way to 70, saying that it was built on a lathe etc so tolerances were very tight. The set Richard built me I have no dough will be vibration free, but again not a 2 piece shaft setup. The only downside is that there may be a slim possibility that my front driveshaft may slightly rub the link on the drivers side at full drop. I really wanted to stay away from using a 2 peice in the front of my buggy as I like to keep things simple and less complicated but sometimes you have to depending on room/pinion location/axle width/etc. My guess is Crash won't but he will have to offset engine to drivers side at bare min, if he wants the engine perfectly centered in the chassis a 2 peice will be probably mandatory.
 
Clark's running a hp in the front with a 2 piece shaft. You could check out his build thread to see how his angles came out. His car hauls ass, with no vibrations that I'm aware of.
 
My drivetrain is perfectly centered, i'm running a two peice shaft. My angles are ok, not perfect, i put it where it fit. I have had it up to near 100mph with no vibrations. Shafts were built by Drivelinetech, still holding up.





I couldn't run a 1 peice, it would have hit my lower link before getting full droop when flexing out, and was kissing my starter bolt at full bump.




 
Thanks for the info/pics clark. Does the pillow block mount on the front x-support of the belly pan?
 
its mounted to the front edge of the skid, and tied into the upper link mount, straight below the carrier bearing. best i've got.


 
Thanks for the info clark :awesomework:

What did that setup run ya?

Also is your oil pan skid hard mounted?
 
I can't remember what i paid for the shaft, but it was worth every penny. Oil pan skid is hard mounted to the engine mounts, and to the skid between the links. I have the TM file for the skid, not sure how it would fit with a 4.3 though.



Sorry to clog your thread with pics, hopefully they help.
 
Not clogging a thing---I can use every piece of advise or help. Most of the time all I need is a small tidbit of info to figure something out :awesomework:
 
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