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Flatlands #1

1tonyj

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So I found another pull out from a 2001 Firebird Firehawk that only had 58k miles on it and looked really clean. Unfortunately the motor was out when I bought it so I didnt get to hear it run.....last time I will ever do that. We put the motor in the buggy and after 15mins of run time you could hear the bearings in it squealing. Pulled the motor out, tore it down and sure enough the cam bearings were toast and there was evidence that the motor had been super hot in the past.
 

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1tonyj

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So at this point Im pretty exhausted with it and just decided to have it built all brand new. The motor went to the builder and the only thing we re-used was the block and the crank... my 243 heads went to Texas Speed for their 2.5 CNC port job and bigger valves. I should get the motor back this week so I hope to have a report soon.

Block bored .005 over
Block decked .007
Crank polished
Eagle forged rods
Wiesco 2618 forged pistons
rotating assembly balanced
New rockers with upgraded trunions
Morel lifters
Melling high flow/high volume pump
Billet double row timing chain
BTR stage 2 cam
TSP heads milled .015 with dual springs and chromo rods
 

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The-Boss

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Bummer on scattering the old motor. True LS aluminum block motors have a cool factor to me so nice to see you going that route. Will be interesting to see how the cam and head work helps. Any compression change?
 

CHASMAN9

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Bummer on scattering the old motor. True LS aluminum block motors have a cool factor to me so nice to see you going that route. Will be interesting to see how the cam and head work helps. Any compression change?


So can you bore an aluminum LS block like you would a cast block? Sorry for my ignorance, but I am not a motor guru unfortunately.
 

1tonyj

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Bummer on scattering the old motor. True LS aluminum block motors have a cool factor to me so nice to see you going that route. Will be interesting to see how the cam and head work helps. Any compression change?

Yeah should get a bump in compression...will know the number when I learn what thickness head gasket the builder used.
 

The-Boss

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So can you bore an aluminum LS block like you would a cast block? Sorry for my ignorance, but I am not a motor guru unfortunately.
I am no motor guru either. Google says early LS1s have paper thin lingers, later ones like Ray has are as he stated. LS2 and beyond have a different configuration and allow for more. Then there is lots of potential if someone got into boring and resleaving.
 

The-Boss

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Yeah should get a bump in compression...will know the number when I learn what thickness head gasket the builder used.
Yeah, I was curious if he was going to make up with a larger gasket and if not what it might be.

We are looking to plan some rides so let me know if yall get some in mind.
 

1tonyj

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To help keep this motor alive we also figured we better put in an Accusump system....I went with the 20-25psi automatic electric valve. I've never had one of these in a buggy before so curious to see if it helps.
 

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extremetownie

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I have ran these since i put a ls in. Never had an oiling problem. I dont know if they help,but they dont hurt.
 

CHASMAN9

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You can but not much, .010 Is max


Thanks, I guess that is just considered a cylinder clean up and not really a bore I guess. I was told you could not since it was aluminum and would not hold the tensile strength like a cast would. I am running a cast LQ9 with aluminum heads, so I don't have to worry about it anyways.
 

1tonyj

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Motor is back at Dillons ....wont be long now
 

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1tonyj

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Thanks, I guess that is just considered a cylinder clean up and not really a bore I guess. I was told you could not since it was aluminum and would not hold the tensile strength like a cast would. I am running a cast LQ9 with aluminum heads, so I don't have to worry about it anyways.


Yep you are correct...
More of a clean up than a bore. My local builder said he never goes more than .007 on the aluminum blocks.
 

1tonyj

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Yeah, I was curious if he was going to make up with a larger gasket and if not what it might be.

We are looking to plan some rides so let me know if yall get some in mind.

So the builder used a .051 head gasket....I ran the numbers and it looks like the compression is 10.9-1 with a quench of .038
 

The-Boss

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10-4 I had to google, but it looks like that is a little bump for the LS1. Still very pump gas friendly.

Also, on the oil accumulator, I think I need to do the electric valve too. I have one on a manual valve that I mean to open when I plan to get a little rowdy but forget half the time or its unplanned.
 
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Beerj

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I always thought the accumulators were to prevent dry starts. Maybe I misunderstood? Do the electronic valve versions open and dump extra oil in if pressure drops below a set psi?
 

1tonyj

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I always thought the accumulators were to prevent dry starts. Maybe I misunderstood? Do the electronic valve versions open and dump extra oil in if pressure drops below a set psi?

Dillion is wiring mine so when I turn power on to the ignition it automatically dumps to help with dry starts....and then when your running as long as your have oil pressure that's above the spec on your valve the sump will refill....should your oil pressure drop below that spec at anytime such as when your layed over on your side the sump will automatically dump oil again back into your motor. The valve I purchased will dump when oil pressure drops below 25 psi.

So you were right on both accounts lol.
 

Beerj

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Dillion is wiring mine so when I turn power on to the ignition it automatically dumps to help with dry starts....and then when your running as long as your have oil pressure that's above the spec on your valve the sump will refill....should your oil pressure drop below that spec at anytime such as when your layed over on your side the sump will automatically dump oil again back into your motor. The valve I purchased will dump when oil pressure drops below 25 psi.
Oh, that's pretty cool. Might have to stick that on the list of things to add later on.
 

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