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Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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To help keep this motor alive we also figured we better put in an Accusump system....I went with the 20-25psi automatic electric valve. I've never had one of these in a buggy before so curious to see if it helps.
 

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I have ran these since i put a ls in. Never had an oiling problem. I dont know if they help,but they dont hurt.
 
You can but not much, .010 Is max


Thanks, I guess that is just considered a cylinder clean up and not really a bore I guess. I was told you could not since it was aluminum and would not hold the tensile strength like a cast would. I am running a cast LQ9 with aluminum heads, so I don't have to worry about it anyways.
 
Motor is back at Dillons ....wont be long now
 

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Thanks, I guess that is just considered a cylinder clean up and not really a bore I guess. I was told you could not since it was aluminum and would not hold the tensile strength like a cast would. I am running a cast LQ9 with aluminum heads, so I don't have to worry about it anyways.


Yep you are correct...
More of a clean up than a bore. My local builder said he never goes more than .007 on the aluminum blocks.
 
Yeah, I was curious if he was going to make up with a larger gasket and if not what it might be.

We are looking to plan some rides so let me know if yall get some in mind.

So the builder used a .051 head gasket....I ran the numbers and it looks like the compression is 10.9-1 with a quench of .038
 
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10-4 I had to google, but it looks like that is a little bump for the LS1. Still very pump gas friendly.

Also, on the oil accumulator, I think I need to do the electric valve too. I have one on a manual valve that I mean to open when I plan to get a little rowdy but forget half the time or its unplanned.
 
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I always thought the accumulators were to prevent dry starts. Maybe I misunderstood? Do the electronic valve versions open and dump extra oil in if pressure drops below a set psi?
 
I always thought the accumulators were to prevent dry starts. Maybe I misunderstood? Do the electronic valve versions open and dump extra oil in if pressure drops below a set psi?

Dillion is wiring mine so when I turn power on to the ignition it automatically dumps to help with dry starts....and then when your running as long as your have oil pressure that's above the spec on your valve the sump will refill....should your oil pressure drop below that spec at anytime such as when your layed over on your side the sump will automatically dump oil again back into your motor. The valve I purchased will dump when oil pressure drops below 25 psi.

So you were right on both accounts lol.
 
Dillion is wiring mine so when I turn power on to the ignition it automatically dumps to help with dry starts....and then when your running as long as your have oil pressure that's above the spec on your valve the sump will refill....should your oil pressure drop below that spec at anytime such as when your layed over on your side the sump will automatically dump oil again back into your motor. The valve I purchased will dump when oil pressure drops below 25 psi.
Oh, that's pretty cool. Might have to stick that on the list of things to add later on.
 
Accusump mounted and plumbed with WOD,s oil pan block.
 

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Short video of motor running at idle. Going to the tuner on Thursday!
 
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So in case anyone was curious to what the real numbers are on a mild built 5.7, check out the graph. We put down just over 300 hp to the tires and 290lb-ft of torque. We were running out of fuel pressure on the big end so that cost us a little, cure for that will be an in take pump Lane recommended. Lane says given the 1/4 wall drive shafts, big tires, auto trans, and all the gearing there is considerable loss of Hp...maybe as much as 50-60%. Taking into consideration "if" we are losing as much as 60% that puts us just shy of 500hp at the crank.

For me its plenty of motor and I have never been concerned about HP numbers but more focused on it doing what I want and being reliable. That being said...I feel like those are good numbers for a stock displacement NA motor. Hope this helps someone else out with what to expect with something similar.
 

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Thanks guys, its only that tiny cause ray is that short :rolf:

its real close to 48" wide at the rocker, and 52ish at the shoulder, 115" wheelbase, bumper is just about inline with the front of the artec ram mount on the axle

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It ended up weighing 4065 with the big ass swampers on it. A set of 39/40s would put it well into the 3900lb range 51front49rear split and just a hair heavy on the front right cause of the chunk.
 
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Sooo..changed a few spots after i took it out for a flippy flop or 3...hopefully ray dont hate me that much for it. It was well into the 3800lb range with the old krt-b tires headed south to race with bnt racing.

173lb per kmc and 43 sx vs 119 per krt-b and trailreadys
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Tossed a nasty branik 35 spline bar on the rear to lock it down better than the antirock... found out the heavy 1.250 is not the diameter you want with short arms on the trailing arm. Top notch work on the bar and weld bungs from stan, i did the bad looking stuff on the arms and end links
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Tossed all this together to make the race at ocala, small time testing on the swaybar and tires made for an interesting time letting it rip for prerun practice Saturday morning with very few around.

Short story..i rolled the **** outta it with out my helmet. Soon as i was back home in the shop, ray hauled the buggy back over so i could fix my duck up.

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Buggy faired far better then i did, couple big rolls and a hard hit to the driver shoulder. Pulled plugs,pushed 1 cylinder of oil and it fired up first hit.

First things first...big nope to the 1.250 diameter, headed to 1.0625 for first actual testing.

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Chopped the few tubes out that got hurt in the roll, nothing crazy here just bugs me if its off a lil.
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New bpillar,door bars, couple in the way tubes. Bpillar took the hit, door bars could have probably lived on but i was chopping already

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And here we are, 2 weeks..ish, now i weld stuff, pop some tabs in place and on goes some steelit. Point taken..even with a buggy built to keep your head away from tubes...the helmet helps with outside stuff either way.
 
Thats no good for the buggy or you. Sounds like you got hurt. Any details to share?
 
Thats no good for the buggy or you. Sounds like you got hurt. Any details to share?

All good here thankfully, decent hit to my head that resulted in a hospital vacation for something around 20 hours, everything is doing well for what happened. Was ready to leave the next day once i got awake and grumpy. I got selfies but i'm lazy, decent swelling to my driver side head, went down within a few days leaving just a lil soreness round my driver eye. This point has everything trued up and in check much better then 2 weeks ago

clipped around a corner in highrange and it didnt like the super locked down sway bar swap. 7 or 8 turns into to the course and she went sailing for 3 flippies. Buggy handled it well for how bad it was, not the first or last time ill be chopping a couple dinked tubes out.
 
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Any updates on the buggy? Also, how you feeling/recovering after the rollovers?
 
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