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Went to AOP yesterday for a ride and celebrating the Graduation of my friend Abigail.

We had a blast and ran some hard ****.

Area51



Then right before loading up I decided today was the day to try Riot Hill. Got some pointers from Roger (@extremetownie) and was able to make it out the top.



After spanking the hill, feeling like I knew WTF I was doing, I decided I was a racecar driver. Then proceeded to Ultra4 my way into a tree. The ol' "click third and eat ****" like Burkey put it !

Managed to break both high steer arms at the same time. SMH.

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I also think I hurt the orbital in the process.

Good thing, the knuckles are completely fine and I was able to extract the bolts easily.

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Time to reassess the situation and see what I will do about this. Multiple options are available, I just haven't decided which avenue I'll take.
 

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I like the idea of milling the factory knuckle flat and bolting on a steer arm vrs the expense of purchasing new knuckles. The factory knuckles are very strong. We just need a high steer solution.
I have noticed a couple of different versions of the style of steer arm you used.
Most use the rear of the arm to index the caliper mount.

Do any of the vendors machine the knuckle for a steer arm that uses a keyed section of the front side?
I would think adding a front keyed area (in red)
Screenshot 2022-05-23 073153.jpg
milled in with matching arm would be very strong.
 
Looks like you've got room to double shear the steering but I'm guessing you've got a reason for not.
 
I like the idea of milling the factory knuckle flat and bolting on a steer arm vrs the expense of purchasing new knuckles. The factory knuckles are very strong. We just need a high steer solution.
I have noticed a couple of different versions of the style of steer arm you used.
Most use the rear of the arm to index the caliper mount.

Do any of the vendors machine the knuckle for a steer arm that uses a keyed section of the front side?
I would think adding a front keyed area (in red) View attachment 206658milled in with matching arm would be very strong.
I think Rhino in Canada does.
I need to hit Jason up, see what he says.

Looks like you've got room to double shear the steering but I'm guessing you've got a reason for not.

Factory TRE hole gives you a terrible Akerman. The way I was running the arm made it slightly less bad.
Honestly the problem wasn't the steering bolt (which is single sheer and completely fine) but more the design of the HS arm.



My ideas for a "better" design. Also adding material to the outside of the arm.

7C260FA4-10BE-4355-B253-04BCE336D78B.jpeg
 
I guess double shear wasn't what I meant. More just tying it into the stock steering location. Can still have your tre at the same spot. But beefing up the arms like you have should definitely help, and not playing george of the jungle
 
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I see.

That would be a good possibility. I need some time to think and most importantly finding a good machine shop that doesn't mind some back and forth with an overthinking frenchie.
 
But more importantly, pics of Abigail, I’m picturing a hot French chick :cougar:
 
But more importantly, pics of Abigail, I’m picturing a hot French chick :cougar:
Mattman's teenage daughter...





On those arms, looks like you could add some width to the outside so there is some meat around the bolt hole, add a key toward the front like RustyC drew.
And probably make it out of something better than A36 hot roll plate.
If you're gonna one-off it, go ahead and do some chromo plate, or 7075.
 
I guess double shear wasn't what I meant. More just tying it into the stock steering location. Can still have your tre at the same spot. But beefing up the arms like you have should definitely help, and not playing george of the jungle
Love the George of the Jungle reference and definitely stealing that one.
 
On those arms, looks like you could add some width to the outside so there is some meat around the bolt hole, add a key toward the front like RustyC drew.
And probably make it out of something better than A36 hot roll plate.
If you're gonna one-off it, go ahead and do some chromo plate, or 7075.

Agreed on the extra meat.

When it comes to material, I agree too, but it'll really depend on what I can afford / put my hands on.
 
Looks like you've got room to double shear the steering but I'm guessing you've got a reason for not.
I have same high steer arms as Enzo, but double shear, and I broke one of my arms. If I ever do another set, I'll do a set with a keyway like BK does, or something similar. I would like to have a set of S&S C's and knuckles, or the ones Austin sterling is designing, but I'm poor, so probably won't happen.
 
I have same high steer arms as Enzo, but double shear, and I broke one of my arms. If I ever do another set, I'll do a set with a keyway like BK does, or something similar. I would like to have a set of S&S C's and knuckles, or the ones Austin sterling is designing, but I'm poor, so probably won't happen.
Price wise by the time you send the knuckles off to get machined or take to a local shop, along with put BJ eliminators, good lower Ball Joints, either machine out a set of F350 inner C's or buy the Spicer C's I bet the price will be about the same as Austin's new setup.
 
Price wise by the time you send the knuckles off to get machined or take to a local shop, along with put BJ eliminators, good lower Ball Joints, either machine out a set of F350 inner C's or buy the Spicer C's I bet the price will be about the same as Austin's new setup.
I just bought the BKOR Reid keyed ones and you'd be correct.

I'm gonna eat some ramen for a while now...
 
Price wise by the time you send the knuckles off to get machined or take to a local shop, along with put BJ eliminators, good lower Ball Joints, either machine out a set of F350 inner C's or buy the Spicer C's I bet the price will be about the same as Austin's new setup.
I haven't talked to Austin yet, I need to give him a call about pricing. I have a few 14s and a sd60, I was about to have him build for me
 
I have been looking at the BK Offroad for a high steer solution for my 05 up knuckles.
I see that they machine the F450 knuckle to leave a key behind. It looks like there is no key in the F250 knuckle. I think it would be great if they could incorporate the key onto all the knuckles they machine and a matching keyway on the steer arm.
F250 .jpg
F450 550 .jpg
 
Any reason to not do a weld on kit like the kits from jhf? Or custom fab some? Pic of mine for reference
709F3FB5-A6A2-41A2-946C-3ECDB623430C.jpeg
 
I have been looking at the BK Offroad for a high steer solution for my 05 up knuckles.
I see that they machine the F450 knuckle to leave a key behind. It looks like there is no key in the F250 knuckle. I think it would be great if they could incorporate the key onto all the knuckles they machine and a matching keyway on the steer arm. View attachment 206675View attachment 206677
I thought I seen where it has a keyway on 250/350 knuckles as well, on a video they posted, but I could be mistaken. Enzo may know, I think he talks to Jake, occasionally
 
I haven't talked to Austin yet, I need to give him a call about pricing. I have a few 14s and a sd60, I was about to have him build for me
Feel free to give me a call or msg me on FB. I'm aiming for sets to be 2k or under with brake mount and highsteer arms included. Currently trying to track down blank material for the UB cups.
 
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Tie the arm into the factory hole and we're likely not having this conversation, keyway or no keyway.
In general, I would agree. But the breakage could have also been worse in this case. There was a comment about using the same arms but in double shear, and still broke them. Not sure if that was double shear with the factory arm, or just the steering attachment.

I have same high steer arms as Enzo, but double shear, and I broke one of my arms. If I ever do another set, I'll do a set with a keyway like BK does, or something similar. I would like to have a set of S&S C's and knuckles, or the ones Austin sterling is designing, but I'm poor, so probably won't happen.


Either way, Tying into the factory arm, will help, along with beefing up the arm itself. It broke in the place I would expect it, since the material was so thin. I would likely also machine it to accept tapered washers, to help with the bolts/nuts coming loose.

Here is a pic of an arm, I am thinking of, to tie in, but also have a 2nd hole.
1653661371603.png
 
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