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HudonCustoms gets new shop!

not all old dudes like slab heat :hi:
I go for the woodstove...continuous btu's and cheap :awesomework:
 
Ok so I will look into it. I like the idea dont get me wrong I just need to keep the $ thing in mind right now.

I would like to hear from people that have done it on how they did it and what would you change if you did it again. I talked to my construcion guy and he said the hot water boilers can be up to 5k and all the pecs tube and pumps can be about that much too... I dont want to spend 10k on a heated floor. I also dont think It would be primary heat either, if it was secondary heat how would you do it?
 
People renting/leasing commercial shops dont care about in floor heat.


Homeowners do. cuz its the cool new thing man.

The only folks that need heat in the floor of the garage have spent more time thinking and designing the perfect garage than actually working in the garage.

They will actually spend more time bragging about their in floor heat and trying to convince other to do the same than actual time spent on their heated floor.

The folks that actually work in the garage allot dont need that ****.

Normal ol shops get a gas heater over ya or a wood stove next to ya.

I put a free electric furnace out of an old mobile I demoed in mine.
 
People renting/leasing commercial shops dont care about in floor heat. "Cause its not available."


Homeowners do. cuz its the cool new thing man. "Whatever."

The only folks that need heat in the floor of the garage have spent more time thinking and designing the perfect garage than actually working in the garage. "BS."

They will actually spend more time bragging about their in floor heat and trying to convince other to do the same than actual time spent on their heated floor. "BS."

The folks that actually work in the garage allot dont need that ****. "BS."

Normal ol shops get a gas heater over ya or a wood stove next to ya.

I put a free electric furnace out of an old mobile I demoed in mine.[/quote]

exactly my point heat is really really nice and we are just trying to give actual experiance and SAVE him money in the long run. :cool:

from what ive read you can do all the expensive heaters and pumps or just a house waterheater and a small pump with some switches and thermostat setup. Definately read up up on it and educate yourself and if you can afford it now you will thank yourself down the road.

i have worked inside and outside in shops all over the world for 40 plus years so im not some young buck i speak from wisdom. listen or not his choice.

please dont get all huffy i meant all those BS's with a smile.:D

hip out i gotta go outside in the cold and watch a boat davit weight test.:stirpot:
 
I use a wood stove/220 electric heater an keep moving with overalls ,start standing around looking at what to do next It gets cold,then the back starts cramping up.The pipe for the wood stove was outrageously expensive campared to free wood stove,burn all card board papers bills etc,throw a little gear oil on it to piss the nieghbors off too to get the fire started.:redneck:
 
I would not even think about the cost of the other parts now. I would just put the tubes in the slab when poured. This gives the option for radiant later.

Here is a easy run down of a ok good working system.

$120 circulator pump
$500-600 manifolds and above slab piping
$1,000 tank less hot water heater, can just run a cheap tank heater if shop is insulated well
$400 propane setup to just run water heater
$300 tubing for in slab pex/wirsbo (I have wirsbo but I think pex would work)

I have a cheap radiant setup in my shop and I like the heated slab as the shop recovers faster when you open the big door and also it is so nice to crank it up and dry out the slab when you pull in a wet rig. My shop is so much nicer to work in with the floor heat vs any kind of air mover heat. The shop just is nicer to work in and it is a very dry heat so as to not cause as much metal corrosion. I used to heat with a propane forced air heater and quickly stopped as my machines do not like condensation. I am in no way an expert on radiant heat and my system leaves a lot to be desired but I would still recommend radiant over any hot air mover if you like to work in your shop for a while.

P.S. I still dont lay on the slab! I prefer a good creeper than crawling around on the floor:fawkdancesmiley:

And since when was I OLD!?
 
Just like building a rig there is a million ways to do it. If i were doing my own shop of your same size it could be achieved for around 1200-1500, but i do it for a living. Dont buy prebuilt a manifold with all the bling, just use SWT balancing and ball valves with tees. Insulate the bulding well and run a small 220v water heater and put the manifold, pump and water heater close to eachother with minimal exposed copper piping thats is insulated to keep heat loss down.
 
Personally, I would at least drop the tube in the slab if it isn't a lot of $$$. It leaves you with options without spending a lot of money.

After having spent 2 solid days in a shop under a lift working on a Jeep. The shop I got up to 45-50F from 35F. But my feet were not appreciating the cold slab at the end of the day.

I don't know if I would want to pay for in floor heating as it's not necessarily cheap to keep running all the time. But I'de at least want the option there if I changed my mind down the road.
 
Dont buy prebuilt a manifold with all the bling, just use SWT balancing and ball valves with tees.

Um:eeek: You have not seen what a manifold costs then? I can get a 4 zone manifold for $40. The manifold can regulate each zone manually:awesomework:

You would have $100's in copper ball valves to do what the manifolds do.
 
Um:eeek: You have not seen what a manifold costs then? I can get a 4 zone manifold for $40. The manifold can regulate each zone manually:awesomework:

You would have $100's in copper ball valves to do what the manifolds do.

Nope never seen one. :awesomework:

What is a 4 zone manifold? I think your refuring to a 4 loop manifold? Loops dont equate to a heating zone


Lets see this $40 balancing manifold cause thats a **** ton cheaper than an uponor truflow manifold
 
Did lots of paper work this weekend and started on the siding, got the front wall almost all done and started on the back wall. Roof should be going on tomorrow.

I am interested in laying the tubing in the slab for now and want to have an in-floor heat guy come out and take a look at my building and help me lay out the zones and select the right tubing for the job so maybe one day I can have a heated floor. Is there anyone on here that can help?
 

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If you lay out the tubing...... If you do this before you get inspected for your concrete your going to be required to have all of the insulation up to code. Or if they even see the tubes sticking out the inspector is going to ask questions.
 
On another note. It cant hurt to put in a couple of extra footings in the work area of the floor with anchors in them so you have the ability to pull down or at least be able to tie something down while lifting.
 
Thanks... Ill look into it.

Some more siding went up last night... Can't do much more right now cause we are waiting on windows. The roof is getting done either today or tomorrow.
 

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Got the roof done last night and went and got some nice shop lights. :cheer:
 

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Thought I would post some final pics of all the wood work. Its looking really good.

Next on my plate is working on doing some painting, gutters, trenching for power and water and bringing in some fill for under the slab. Also the garage doors are should be here next month.
 

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just another thought for ya. i cant tell ya how many times i wished i had a light recessed in the floor pointing up.

to the point i have researched out digging hole to add one in my shop:redneck:

looks really good:;
 
Thanks Hip... thats a really good idea, atleast for the bay that is getting a lift so you have light under the rig.
 
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