Ifs cv stub broke inside diff. Help!

CheapJ7 · Jan 5, 2015

Broke a cv on the 4Runner. The stub portion of the cv twisted off inside the diff. Splines don't look hurt, but I can't figure out how to remove the broken piece without dropping and disassembling the diff. It's on the short side, so the long side jack shaft prevents putting a bar all the way through the carrier. I've tried sticking a welding rod to it, no luck. Briefly tried drilling and tapping. Twisted portion makes it hard to center bit, plus the shaft is ninja hard. It has a bull/flex ring holding the piece in place. Any thoughts? Pulling the diff is not the end of the world, so the extraction technique would need to be fairly simple. :JRich:

Thanks again

5BrothersFabrication · Jan 5, 2015

Badass magnet maybe? Like one of the larger Snap-On dealy-o's?

al1tonyota · Jan 5, 2015

I broke one in a borrowed 1k gayzr last Saturday drilled a 1/4" hole about an inch deep screwed a self taping sheet metal screw in vise gripped a small slide hammer (homemade) to the screw and snatched it 5-6 times and it pulled out! You don't really have to drill directly in the center. A good sharp bit will drill into the end of an axle shaft!

CheapJ7 · Jan 5, 2015

To clear it up, dad tried the drilling and gave up fairly quick. I'm convinced I can get it. What bit should I buy? I've never had any luck with drill bits, but I've never took the time to learn much about the different ones either.

al1tonyota · Jan 5, 2015

I have a set of hss chrome bits that came with a tap and die set? Start small and step up sizes.

CheapJ7 · Jan 5, 2015

Thanks man

TBItoy · Jan 5, 2015

Try a concrete bit, at least to get a hole started. Then switch to a regular bit.

Is there any way you can clamp vise grips to the broke off stub?

I used to break short side inners on older ifs trucks all the time, I'd jam some vise grips as far in as I could and barely grab the stub and clamp the **** out of it, then take a pry bar and stick it through the jaws of the pliers and pop the stub out

Marty · Jan 5, 2015

Cobalt steal bit or carbide. Drill and tap, put a bolt in and use a slide hammer. at least thats what I do when I break one in my rzr ever other ride boo yang
Edit the concrete bit might work too. I tried everything I had, really expensive HSS and cobalt bits to drill a snap on wrench to use as a handle and nothing would even chip the chrome. that was with a big drill press too. went to lows and bought a carbide concrete bit and it ate through it and was probably $9 :****:

CheapJ7 · Jan 5, 2015

TBItoy said:
Try a concrete bit, at least to get a hole started. Then switch to a regular bit.

Is there any way you can clamp vise grips to the broke off stub?

I used to break short side inners on older ifs trucks all the time, I'd jam some vise grips as far in as I could and barely grab the stub and clamp the **** out of it, then take a pry bar and stick it through the jaws of the pliers and pop the stub out

I
It's broke back up inside the diff a good ways, I really don't see any way to get a vice grip on it.

7/32 bit and a 1/4-28 tap be my best bet?

5BrothersFabrication · Jan 5, 2015

CheapJ7 said:
I
It's broke back up inside the diff a good ways, I really don't see any way to get a vice grip on it.

7/32 bit and a 1/4-28 tap be my best bet?

Thats what I'd do if a magnet didn't work.

poolman · Jan 5, 2015

TBItoy said:
Try a concrete bit, at least to get a hole started. Then switch to a regular

Really? A masonry bit?

TBItoy · Jan 5, 2015

poolman said:
Really? A masonry bit?

Yep

blacksheep10 · Jan 6, 2015

I've been told that before as well, guy was trying to drill a leaf spring, said all he got to work was a masonry bit. Still blows my mind.

kushKrawlin · Jan 6, 2015

TBItoy said:
Yep

This guy still blows my mind. Modern day mcgiver I tell Ya. Smart mofo there. Small SHARP bit, and work up to bigger. SLOWW OR CUTTIN OIL is the only way to keep a bit around cheapj7, believe me I have done extensive textin by burnin up about 1000 bits.

TBItoy · Jan 6, 2015

Re: Re: Ifs cv stub broke inside diff. Help!

blacksheep10 said:
I've been told that before as well, guy was trying to drill a leaf spring, said all he got to work was a masonry bit. Still blows my mind.

The "blade" on the end of a masonry bit is a piece of tungsten carbide. Basically the bit is just a tool holder

Toddy · Jan 6, 2015

Go ahead and buy you a good set of drill bits in an index. It will cost you to start with but will save you big time in the long run. A good HSS bit will drill the axle I do believe. Prob hard on the surface of the break do to work hardening. You can always get a solid carbide bit and go that route. But if it's that hard good luck tapping it. If it does end up being that hard a self tapper might mar up enough to pull it out.

Generally on drilling soft material fast and light pressure. The harder the material the slower and more pressure. Lube helps a lot too.
Also on stepping up in size it's better to bigger then to try to go one size at a time. I have found that most of the time it just rounds the corners of the bit if it doest have some meat to cut.

A drill doctor is one of the best investments you can make to your tool collection. They work like a champ and save money on good bits.

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/CLE-LINE-Jobber-Drill-Set-6X001?fc=MWP2IDP2PCP
This is the index we use and work and they seem to be good bits.