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Juggy Rehab

hokie_yj said:
I got everything back together today. After I already had the case filled with oil and was putting the driveshafts back in I noticed one cap retainer was broken off the front yoke. I don't have time to take it back apart and get a new yoke before I go wheeling next weekend so I had to come up with a quick fix.

A 3/8" heavy washer was the perfect size to fit in the end of the yoke. So I tacked it in for a temporary fix until I have time to fix it right. Hopefully it will hold up for at least a weekend.


That'll hold up for a weekend and then some, as long as nothing's binding to try to rip it off. We've fixed a few like that on the trail.
 
I took it down my gravel road today in 4hi giving it everything I could. It held up to that at least. I do think it will be just fine though.
 
SB406 said:
That'll hold up for a weekend and then some, as long as nothing's binding to try to rip it off. We've fixed a few like that on the trail.

I have something real similar on the cv in my front drive shaft of the ol heep and it has held strong. It may go any day, but I sure ain't scared of it
 
Landing directly on the driveshaft is probably what knocked the original tang off. I did that to a 14 bolt yoke. I welded the cap right in and continued on.
 
Well I took this thing out this past weekend to AOP and it really impressed me. I was able to get up a lot of stuff pretty easily that others really struggled on, and that had nothing to do with my driving ability. This thing really was just about a point and shoot rig this weekend even as slick as it was. I don't know if anyone got any pictures of it on the trail, we didn't stop much for pics or video. Here's a couple I got of it sitting in camp.





The only carnage was a broken brake line going to the drivers rear caliper. On Saturday morning on Trail 65 I backed into a tree or rock and bent the short section of hard line on the flex line going to the caliper. It was bent up to where if the shock compressed it would hit it. We tried to bend it back but it just cracked the line so we broke it off and hammered it flat, pinched the rubber line off with vise grips and wheeled the rest of the day without issue.

Do have some minor issues to address though. My transmission temp gauge was flaky this weekend, totally my fault though. When I installed it I put the sender in a pipe tee mounted in line in the rubber line and zip tied it to the chassis. Brain fart on my part, the body of the sender has to be grounded for the gauge to work. So I guess occasionally it was grounding just enough to work until a good bounce moved it again. Also I got the transmission a little too hot because I didn't really understand how the electronic shifting on the AW4 worked. It has a RADsigns rail shifter, but I didn't fully understand how it worked so I think I wheeled all weekend in 2nd gear. OOPS! And late in the day Saturday I started having what seems like fuel issues. Motor would rev wide open in neutral but when I put it under a load trying to climb a hill anything over about 1/4 throttle and it would just sputter and fall on it's face. I pulled the fuel filter off and it didn't seem to be clogged, and I didn't have anything with me to test the fuel pressure so I just parked it and rode with someone else for the last few hours. All in all a great weekend though, and I was very pleased with how it did for the first trip.
 
Cool rehab build. Looking good now!
When a prebuilt rig is purchased, it can always go 2 ways:

1. An owner who has never built his own rig will get it, break some parts, not wrench on it, and sell it for less than he paid for it.

2. A person with know how can improve on an already decent product resulting in an even higher quality rig. 8)

Is the transmission cooler fan a puller or pusher that is under the seat?

Also, an o2 sensor was the culprit on my old 4.0, that had symptoms similar to yours.
 
Thanks man!

The cooler fan is a puller. I may end up having to relocate the cooler. Not sure it's getting enough air under there. Thanks for the tip on the o2 sensor, I'll check it too.
 
I finally got a chance to hook a fuel pressure gauge to this thing this week. When I turned the ignition switch on the pump turns on to prime the system, but it didn't read anything on the gauge. When I started it up the gauge started climbing, but it moved VERY slowly and only got up to about 22-23 psi at idle. Currently the pump is an E2000 mounted directly below the fuel cell, gravity fed from the bottom of the cell. I'm banking on the pump being bad, I've see the same issue several times on friends rigs running the same pump. I ordered a Walbro GSL392 which is a 255lph pump. It just came in this afternoon and I didn't have time to swap it before work this evening. Hopefully I can swap it out tomorrow afternoon before work and see if that fixes the problem.

I also got a set of drop in replacement LED headlights and put them in this week. With the stock headlights I could barely see the trail in front of me at night. These should make a huge difference. They have both low and high beam but I'm using the high beam only. The low beam just turns on half the LEDs.











I also ordered a 40" curved light bar to put on, but I haven't gotten to that yet.
 
I got the fuel pump swapped this afternoon before I left for work. Seems to have made all the difference in the world. I took it up and down the gravel road I live on a couple times and it ran like a raped ape. It honestly feels like it has twice the power it had before. The only markings of any kind on the old pump was a very small "BC1503" stamped on it. I googled that number but it doesn't bring up anything. The PO had told me it was an e2000, but I'm thinking it was probably a Chinese knockoff of an e2000.

I'm planning to fix the issue with the Transmission temp. sender this week and give it a good going over and hopefully head to Harlan next weekend.
 

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