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Locker installation

slidillon

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Sep 26, 2006
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I've got the factory D44 in my TJ with Trac-lok LS. I managed to break a spider gear tooth and am thinking about using this opportunity to just go ahead and install a locker.

There are many choices out there. Which one would be the easiest to install and would I be able to do it without messing up the ring and pinion set up? I am leaning towards installing a Detroit. Are there any special tools required?
 
Lock rite is by far the easiest, don't gotta do bearings. And people say they are junk but I think it depends on the axle. Dana 44 lock rites seem to work good, I've got them front and rear in d44's and they have taken tons of abuse. The guys at Oly 4x4 said they have never encountered a problem with d44 lock rites.

Toyota axles is different, I've heard lock rites in a toyota carrier don't last for ****.
 
if you have a LS you will need a new carrier to install a lockrite so you would have to do the gear setup.

if you put in a detroit, it is the carrier so you will have to do a gear setup.

so a gear setup is in store for you no matter what you do.

as for any special tools:

i micrometeror or dial calipewrs to measure shims
a dial indicator with a base to measure backlash
Clamshell bearing pullers

a press is nice but it can be done without.
 
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A gear set up is the main thing I was hoping to avoid. I read a few installation articles I found on the net and a couple of them said I could install a Powertrax no-slip and wouldn't have to reset the gears. Obviously, the ring gear has to come out no matter what, I just wasn't sure how involved it would be getting everything back in and aligned. Setting up gears is about where I draw the line on whether or not I will do it myself. I don't have all he tools for that nor the experience.
 
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It is made of Zytanium. Thats funny. I would have went with a Detroit No-spin, because I have seen Trak-loc carriers break in half. But that is not very common. Check your carrier and pinion bearings, the bearings on a Dana 44 like to spin on the carrier, or the housing. You might want to upgrade your yoke to a u-bolt style too.
 
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A full on Detroit is about the same money, plus a couple of extra bucks for installation.

If you haven't actually clicked the 'buy' button, I'd reconsider. Get the Detroit. You'll be money ahead in the long run. Too many 'lunchbox' lockers blow up.

$570 new, plus install, say... another $100.

http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=3264

I think you need the C-clip detroit, but it's probably the same $.
 
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I was leaning heavily towards the Detroit, Treeclimber. The main reason I went with the Powertrax is because I can install it with my existing carrier. Installing the Detroit meant the resetting up the gears. I am installing the Powertrax myself, therefore saving money on the install labor. I have been running an Aussie locker in my D30 for a couple of years now with no problem and I don't really wheel that often and I'm pretty laid back when I do. So, we will see how this goes.

/Sometimes the best lessons are the hardest learned??
 
if you want i have a trac loc carrier that the internal aren't that old. replaced the internals and about 6 month later i ended up regearing and went with a arb. you can have the carrier for $50.
 
if you want i have a trac loc carrier that the internal aren't that old. replaced the internals and about 6 month later i ended up regearing and went with a arb. you can have the carrier for $50.

That would have been sweet. I guess I could have asked around to see if anyone had a trac-lok carrier laying around. $50 sure beats the $450 the Powertrax cost. Oh well, at least I will have a full rear locker now. Just don't tell the wife I could have been back on the road for $50....lol
 
they do make new internals for the tracloc. i got mine from reider racing.i went through the same thing i had chiped teeth but didn't want to regear it at that time.

you could always send it back.
 
FWIW Installing a locker is not the same as setting up gears. New carrier and bearings without removing the pinion is easy. And don't be scared of setting up gears either, its not that complicated. I downloaded the spicer manual and followed it step by step and took my time, my gears came out perfect. A set of honed out carrier bearings is the one thing not mentioned in the manual that make life much easier, other than that piece of cake:awesomework:
 
Lock rite is by far the easiest, don't gotta do bearings. And people say they are junk but I think it depends on the axle. Dana 44 lock rites seem to work good, I've got them front and rear in d44's and they have taken tons of abuse. The guys at Oly 4x4 said they have never encountered a problem with d44 lock rites.

Toyota axles is different, I've heard lock rites in a toyota carrier don't last for ****.

I have heard the same for the 4cyl lockrites #1610. However the V6 Lockrites do not fall under the same problem #1620.
 
Here's the spider gear breakage. The hardest part of the whole operation was getting the spider and side gears out.

I was having a hard time getting the carrier out too, then I wrapped a tow strap around it and yanked on it real good.

DSC02254.JPG
 
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FWIW Installing a locker is not the same as setting up gears. New carrier and bearings without removing the pinion is easy.
Exactly right. Pinion depth and preload is by far the toughest part of a gear setup, and you don't have to touch the pinion for a locker install. Just back lash and side bearing preload. Not bad at all. Just measure backlash before disassembly and match it on reassembly.
 
Exactly right. Pinion depth and preload is by far the toughest part of a gear setup, and you don't have to touch the pinion for a locker install. Just back lash and side bearing preload. Not bad at all. Just measure backlash before disassembly and match it on reassembly.
You'd be amazed at how many supposed 'experts' don't check the backlash before removing the old carrier.:looser:
They always say- "I've been doing it this way for years".
I always say- "you've been doing it wrong for years".:haha:
 
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