First run with propane setup. Used got propane kit. It's low on power. I advanced the timing some but couldn't really tell any difference. It also acts like it has a vacuum leak. All hoses are capped and or clamped on. Spray it with brake cleaner and the idle will slightly drop. I figured if anything it would go up. I also played with the mixture screw but couldn't tell much difference other than pops at idle the more it's screwed in. Any ideas? Thanks for looking.
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altfuel1991
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Get some starting fluid and spray around the throttle body, intake manifold and any ports where there is vacuum. You should hear the engine rpm rise if it sucks in the ether. Brake cleaner does not burn well.
Here are the guidelines for setting the timing. But first make sure there are no vacuum leaks, then set the timing. Next set the idle mixture for smoothest idle and last set the idle speed.
On most applications, the timing should be a total of 30 degrees(base and centrifugal) with all of it in by 2500 rpm. What we normally do is disconnect the vacuum advance, run the engine up to 2500 rpm, set the timing at 30, lock it down, then let it idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. See what your base timing is running. If it is low,4-10 degrees for example, you can alter the centrifugal to lower that number and increase the base, still keeping a total of 30 degrees. As you increase the base timing check to see if the engine spins and starts smoothly when hot. If you reach a point that the engine bucks or loads the starter, back off about 3-4 degrees and that is your base timing. Subtract that number from 30 degrees and that will be the advance you need to have. This will provide a good start, strong idle and proper advance curve. We have had some engines run as much as 20 degrees base timing but 14-16 degrees is normal. The vacuum advance should be connected to ported vacuum and have no more than 10 degrees. This helps fuel economy at light throttle positions.
Here are the guidelines for setting the timing. But first make sure there are no vacuum leaks, then set the timing. Next set the idle mixture for smoothest idle and last set the idle speed.
On most applications, the timing should be a total of 30 degrees(base and centrifugal) with all of it in by 2500 rpm. What we normally do is disconnect the vacuum advance, run the engine up to 2500 rpm, set the timing at 30, lock it down, then let it idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. See what your base timing is running. If it is low,4-10 degrees for example, you can alter the centrifugal to lower that number and increase the base, still keeping a total of 30 degrees. As you increase the base timing check to see if the engine spins and starts smoothly when hot. If you reach a point that the engine bucks or loads the starter, back off about 3-4 degrees and that is your base timing. Subtract that number from 30 degrees and that will be the advance you need to have. This will provide a good start, strong idle and proper advance curve. We have had some engines run as much as 20 degrees base timing but 14-16 degrees is normal. The vacuum advance should be connected to ported vacuum and have no more than 10 degrees. This helps fuel economy at light throttle positions.
Gotpropane
Active Member
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- Nov 17, 2013
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Hi,
It shouldn't have any "pop" going on no matter where the settings are. I can give you the run down on how this should be set up. I won't be in the shop till 8 (I'm 3 hrs behind) but if you want to give me a shout I can get you dialed in.
Thanks,
Cary
480-430-8033
It shouldn't have any "pop" going on no matter where the settings are. I can give you the run down on how this should be set up. I won't be in the shop till 8 (I'm 3 hrs behind) but if you want to give me a shout I can get you dialed in.
Thanks,
Cary
480-430-8033
hjpcummins
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Re:
Good ppl^
Good ppl^
Re:
I had a slightly bent butterfly valve. I've replaced it but have yet to put it back together. I sprayed brake clean on the vacuum lines and the idle would drop. Not rise. Very strange to me. I'm going to try and block off the vacuum tree as I call it right below the mixer with a plug or bolt.
Cary, the pop is fairly normal for my motor. It's always had it to some degree. If I turn the mixture screw in it comes back but if I leave it out a little it purrs. It has no throttle response and it acts like a diesel with a monster turbo that's hard to light. If I can get it would up it has power but none when you stab it and need it.
I had a slightly bent butterfly valve. I've replaced it but have yet to put it back together. I sprayed brake clean on the vacuum lines and the idle would drop. Not rise. Very strange to me. I'm going to try and block off the vacuum tree as I call it right below the mixer with a plug or bolt.
Cary, the pop is fairly normal for my motor. It's always had it to some degree. If I turn the mixture screw in it comes back but if I leave it out a little it purrs. It has no throttle response and it acts like a diesel with a monster turbo that's hard to light. If I can get it would up it has power but none when you stab it and need it.
hjpcummins
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Re:
I'm not 100% sure if it's correct. But I did have every vacuumed linr in the carb plate blocked and mine Ren great.
I'm not 100% sure if it's correct. But I did have every vacuumed linr in the carb plate blocked and mine Ren great.
Technician
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altfuel1991 said:
Wright way.
Technician
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Gotpropane said:
Wrong way.
Re:
I can't for the life of me seal this thing up. I bought a carb rebuild kit solely for the 3 gaskets. Still leaks. I've put rtv on it and it still leaks. It seems to come from where the got propane piece meets the carb base. Sorry for the crappy video but it also doesn't Rev up it dies when sprayed with starting fluid.
http://youtu.be/V0vypnGM7sk
I can't for the life of me seal this thing up. I bought a carb rebuild kit solely for the 3 gaskets. Still leaks. I've put rtv on it and it still leaks. It seems to come from where the got propane piece meets the carb base. Sorry for the crappy video but it also doesn't Rev up it dies when sprayed with starting fluid.
http://youtu.be/V0vypnGM7sk
hjpcummins
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Re:
We're are you located, possibly a member might give you a hand
We're are you located, possibly a member might give you a hand
Re:
I pulled it all apart again and made sure everything was not warped and all appears good. Made sure I got the countersunk holes covert and it's much better on the vacuum leak but still has a minor leak around the mixer and a slightly larger leak at the vaporizer hose. Making baby steps. Never thought it would be this big of a pita.
I pulled it all apart again and made sure everything was not warped and all appears good. Made sure I got the countersunk holes covert and it's much better on the vacuum leak but still has a minor leak around the mixer and a slightly larger leak at the vaporizer hose. Making baby steps. Never thought it would be this big of a pita.
