Need some help with my 4.3 CPI

Binder · Apr 23, 2011

In the closed loop file is the throttle closed all the way? The TPS thinks it's open just a touch.

zukkev · Apr 23, 2011

Binder said:
The ones he posted? They're .txt files which should open with note pad.

yup, got it! Thanks!:redneck: ( I feel like an idjiot...)....I see the same thing---tps is held open slightly at .61%...I also don't like the closed loop timing at idle RPM....0* + or - a couple...in closed loop.
When you set the timing, did you disconnect the timing connector?

ain'tstuckjustresting · Apr 24, 2011

When the throttle is closed it does read 0% the reason it shows slightly open is because it will die if I let it drop below 925RPMs so I have to touch the pedal a bit to keep it running long enough to log anything.

Yes, I set the timing at 0deg with the esc unplugged. I am a bit worried about the randomness of the timing. It never added any spark knock counts or indicated that it was retarding because of such. It's strange to see it go retarded but I think it may be doing it when I try to let it idle and it tries to die then picks back up. Also thought 20+ deg of advance seemed high for mid rpm no load conditions?

I'll try and get some better data up.:awesomework:

ain'tstuckjustresting · Apr 24, 2011

This is the DataMaster version I used. It's unlimited free playbacks and 20 free recording sessions.

http://www.ttspowersystems.com/software/DataMaster-OBD1-401/DM-0D-setup.exe

This should be the playback file. (wont open w/o the above program)

Damn I can't attach a .uni file

Binder · Apr 24, 2011

If it won't idle how did you time it?

ain'tstuckjustresting · Apr 24, 2011

Well it will idle for very short periods at random just not well. I had the timing light hooked up and had to keep the rpm's up so it wouldn't load up. I could let it come back to idle slowly and take a reading as soon as it stabilized.

Hip · Apr 25, 2011

Binder said:
If it won't idle how did you time it?

kinda wierd funny deal with mine....

timing....

i can not set it to factory specs.........it wont run. i can make it start but rus like what you are experiancing. but if i disconnect the sprout and just time it with my ear. timing mark WAAAAAYYYYY off. vacuum at 14" or so. till it runs smooth.

(actual vacuum is like zero when timing is set at the mark.)

then hook up the sprout and reset the ecu (disconect batt). then let the ECU control the timing and it runs fine. even perfect.

the timing mark is still wayyyyyy off and has been verified correct mechanically.:eeek:

the timing mark is so far off it wont even show when putting a timing light on it. if i try to bring it within scope it wont run. vacuum disappears.

so i just timed it by way mentioned above and she runs good. when i test it with the scan tool timing is shown at 10 DEG at idle and fluctuates as needed by the ecu.:redneck:

cant explain it other than ****ing magic but it works.

Had another one like this that the harmonic balancer ring slid around the center hub and the mark was mechanically off about 100 degrees. that was easy to spot. so i made sure mine is not spun and its not. but my timing mark is waaaaayyyy off.

id sure like to fawk with it for a little while to see if i can help ya out here, but im stuck at home...

ain'tstuckjustresting · Apr 25, 2011

That's pretty weird. I'm doing a lot of reading and haven't seen anything like that. May be worth a try though. The bad part is, when you search for info on CPI problems 90% come up as a leaking spider.

I don't have much time to work on it so I'm just kinda picking away one thing at a time.

Thanks for the info Hip, Binder, & zukkev.:awesomework:

Binder · Apr 25, 2011

What Hip described is common for engines if you try to time it on the wrong cylinder. I'm sure Hip has thought of this though...
I would like to see a active log of this thing, can you E mail the file?

ain'tstuckjustresting · Apr 25, 2011

Sent.

zukkev · Apr 25, 2011

You and hippy are hooking the timing light to the driver front cylinder, right?

ain'tstuckjustresting · Apr 25, 2011

Nope, I hooked it to my pecker and stuffed the #1 wire up my arse. As per the instructions in the Haynes manual:redneck:.

Binder · Apr 26, 2011

There's a couple strange things happening in the file you sent me but first you have two trouble codes you need to clear then log again. One code is 35 which is IAC failure though it looks like the IAC is working. The other is 42 which is timing failure probably because you didn't clear the code after setting the timing.....

ain'tstuckjustresting · Apr 26, 2011

Yeah, at rec#11772 I cleared the codes. From then on the DTC indicator is off.

Code 35 sets when I open a vacuum leak to get it to run decent, The ecu keeps trying to close the IAC since the idle is so high but it doesn't see a rpm change so it sets a code. (I never created a leak during the recording fyi).

Code 42 does set any time it's running with the esc disconnected.

crash2 · Apr 26, 2011

Binder said:
There's a couple strange things happening in the file you sent me but first you have two trouble codes you need to clear then log again. One code is 35 which is IAC failure though it looks like the IAC is working. The other is 42 which is timing failure probably because you didn't clear the code after setting the timing.....

35 is not a direct IAC failure per say. I have never seen a failed IAC cause a 35 only vacuum leaks.

ain'tstuckjustresting · Apr 26, 2011

I know for a fact it's from the vacuum leak. I never got the code until I pulled the brake booster hose. I can make it happen every time.

I hope to be home in time to run it again tomorrow after work I live in a quiet neighborhood and this truck is f-ing loud.

Binder · Apr 26, 2011

Your short term fuel trim looks to be all over the place. Cell 4 goes from very rich at 1722526 to very lean at 1769334. One extreme or the other would make sense but both in just a couple minutes...........There's only a couple things that I think would do this. One is a bad O2 sensor but it looks to be working fine and your problems are in both open and closed loop (O2 doesn't change things in open loop). The other would be inconsistant fuel pressure or injectors.
Are you sure those injectors are working right?......
The only useable data from that log is at the very end after you cleared the codes. Can you get more data with the codes clear?

Binder · Apr 26, 2011

crash said:
35 is not a direct IAC failure per say. I have never seen a failed IAC cause a 35 only vacuum leaks.

"IAC failure" is the title datamaster gives that code. Yes I agree the code doesn't necessarily mean the IAC is bad it's just the computer doesn't see the MAP value it would expect to see....Sounds like it's a non issue.

crash2 · Apr 26, 2011

Binder said:
Your short term fuel trim looks to be all over the place. Cell 4 goes from very rich at 1722526 to very lean at 1769334. One extreme or the other would make sense but both in just a couple minutes...........There's only a couple things that I think would do this. One is a bad O2 sensor but it looks to be working fine and your problems are in both open and closed loop (O2 doesn't change things in open loop). The other would be inconsistant fuel pressure or injectors.
Are you sure those injectors are working right?......
The only useable data from that log is at the very end after you cleared the codes. Can you get more data with the codes clear?

What does that equal to in counts rick (100-140)?