Pole Barn Builders?

TacomaJD · Aug 16, 2016

Well ****! I figured that included concrete and dirt. Doesn't sound to me like there's very much difference in price between all metal perlin framing and pole barn framing.

johneddie · Aug 16, 2016

I just dropped 6K on my 24x36 shed. Already had the three bay shed...converted it into a usable garage. Concrete (approx. 4"), studded 16" on center, insulated with batts, everything covered with 1/2" plywood including the ceiling, and swapped lights to 4' LEDs and added recessed lights to front overhang. Still gotta have insulation blown in ceiling which will be around another $500. Had about 10K invested in it originally but that was close to 10 years ago.

Zjman · Aug 16, 2016

Im thinking of going this route next spring, pretty cheap and they are nice, a guy in next town had one put up and i liked it for the price http://www.metalgaragesdirect.com/garages.html

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TacomaJD · Aug 16, 2016

Zjman said:
Im thinking of going this route next spring, pretty cheap and they are nice, a guy in next town had one put up and i liked it for the price http://www.metalgaragesdirect.com/garages.html

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We have 5 large storage buildings (30x30 or bigger), 1 is an open faced shed and the other 4 are enclosed like a shop with one huge roll up door on the front, all fabricated from that square metal tubing. They've been here for upwards of 10+ years with no issues. But I've heard some say they don't like that design because the metal tends to crack in some of the joints as the building moves a little over time from wind. Just hear say, like I said, the ones at work have been great.

ROKTOY829 · Aug 16, 2016

Re:

Anyone just went and got the material there selves and throwed one up.

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Bronco72 · Aug 17, 2016

Thats what i did. I did my own concrete and all. Mine is 30x40x12 studded up

I still have around 20k in it tho. But thats insulated and wired with 200 amp service and 8' led lights plywood on the walls and metal celing

Bronco72 · Aug 17, 2016

My floor is 6" thick also. I poured 12" deep places were im gonna put my lift if i ever get one

grcthird · Aug 17, 2016

Bronco72 said:
My floor is 6" thick also. I poured 12" deep places were im gonna put my lift if i ever get one

Most lift manufactures recommend 6" for 10k lifts, several places I have worked had 4" and no problems. The building I have now has 6" everywhere.

86chevota · Aug 17, 2016

Bronco72 said:
Thats what i did. I did my own concrete and all. Mine is 30x40x12 studded up

I still have around 20k in it tho. But thats insulated and wired with 200 amp service and 8' led lights plywood on the walls and metal celing

That's really nice !

Bronco72 · Aug 18, 2016

86chevota said:
That's really nice !

Thanks man. Iv been on that thing all summer. Im hopin to get my doors up this weekend and call it finished

Bama · Aug 18, 2016

Most folks around this area get their trusses from addison. Cecil pigg is one of the folks that sell the trusses up there. Its up near duncan bridge on smith lake. Those places can have folks or know folks that can build you one....... Sloan supply on warrior jasper road near warrior can get you the metal.

biggin · Aug 18, 2016

Dont know option prices but these don't sound too outrageous

http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/pole-barn-prices/

TacomaJD · Aug 18, 2016

When people build shops with 2 or 3 courses of 8" block on the concrete, are they anchored in any way or is the blocks just laid straight on the concrete, then wood framinig on top anchored to the blocks? I can lay brick and block, just never done it in a critical application like that.

Marty · Aug 18, 2016

TacomaJD said:
When people build shops with 2 or 3 courses of 8" block on the concrete, are they anchored in any way or is the blocks just laid straight on the concrete, then wood framinig on top anchored to the blocks? I can lay brick and block, just never done it in a critical application like that.

A footing has to be dug and poured to lay block, the block is then set on the footer with mud, I don't think you have to with a couple courses of block but you can drill the footer and stick rebar vertical through the opening in the block then the block is pumped full of concrete, then your pressure treated bottom plate is bolted down to the block with a J bolt. Then your framing goes up. If you do it this way you can leave a couple courses of block exposed on the inside of the building and spray the shop out without getting your walls/wood framing wet. Good way to do it IMO but obviously cost more than a pole barn framing with a floating slab.

TacomaJD · Aug 18, 2016

Ah-ha! I guess I was a little confused on the proper way to do it. I was just thinking it may have been possible to do a floating concrete pad, poured thicker around the edges like 6+", then laying 2 or 3 courses of block on the perimeter of the concrete and wood framing the rest on top. But that doesn't sound like a good idea I don't guess. molaugh

zukimaster · Aug 18, 2016

My shop is 3 block high sitting on top of the pad, no need for a footer ,then the walls are anchored to the blocks, I would never want a wood wall touching the floor in a shop, with the block, you can wash it out with water hose and don't worry about the walls rotting from getting wet.

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TacomaJD · Aug 18, 2016

zukimaster said:
My shop is 3 block high sitting on top of the pad, no need for a footer ,then the walls are anchored to the blocks, I would never want a wood wall touching the floor in a shop, with the block, you can wash it out with water hose and don't worry about the walls rotting from getting wet.

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Ha! That's exactly the way I was talking about.

blacksheep10 · Aug 19, 2016

Just more money. I love the way Bronco did short walls. I've done a couple steel buildings, generally set them on 2' above floor height short walls (they go down and sit on a spread footing like a real foundation) Super Legit. I go steel anytime it is humanly possible. I'm probably weird

customcj7 · Aug 19, 2016

I'll tell you one thing, and I will be doing this on my next shop, if you can, invest in the pex tubing to run radiant heat in the concrete slab.

Put some insulation down between the rock grade, then rebar, then pex tubing. You may never even use it, but the initial cost of all the pex would be minor. But later, if you're out there all the time in winter like I was, it would be worth gold to have radiant floor heating. I insulated the living **** out of my shop, 1" spray foam throughout, then R19 batts on top of that, enclosed ceiling, the works. In summertime the hottest it would get would be around 85 degrees. If I kicked on the window AC unit it would hold 75-78 easy in 95 degree heat, and with no humidity. However in winter, I would have to run my mega heater for hours to get it up to 50 degrees. That concrete slab was so damn cold it was almost impossible to battle the temperature. If it was even slightly warmer than the freezing slab it was, my shop would have held a warmer temperature much easier and without having to run my super heater so much. I'm not talking making it 70 degrees, but I shot it with a temp gun and the slab was 45 degrees some days.

My plan is to run pex for radiant flooring, and then integrate and electrical instant water heater. I won't have gas out there so I don't have a choice. But I plan to utilize a thermostat that can be controlled via Wi-fi. If I know at work that I'll be hitting the shop that night, I can turn it on around 2:30 or 3:00pm and by the time I get home, it will be nice and warm.

Even if you don't ever use it, if you sell the house, that would be a BIG perk to the future buyer.