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Project: Trail & ERROR

As i sit right now I have $4,500 something dollars to throw at this thing, I just want to put the money where it counts:awesomework:
 
I priced out one.. currie center, True hi 9, dedenber outer, Longfields, 5 x 5.5.. ect.

I stopped counting at 6k.. OUCH!
 
I find it so amusing that folks fixate on the big brand name stuff to build axles...brand name stuff costs $$$

But I guess it's all about the bling :rolleyes:

No, not really, its about availability. and whats out there.

Currie center is cheaper than spider, diamond or any others i have found.
Ok, so you build your own.. ever priced inner "c"s.. by the time your done, it would be cheaper to buy it.

If you gonna put a HP up front, then its either currie or HI9.. currie tire size limitation 35" (i would not want a low pinion 9 up front)

Outers, Dedenber is the only rout to go, unless you just happen to have a D60 laying around. (in that case, just put that in there)

Its cheaper to convert the front to 5 lug than new wheels all around and converting my rear HI9 to 8 lug. (1000 bucks for FF conversion)

ok, longfields are BLING.
 
No, not really, its about availability. and whats out there.

Currie center is cheaper than spider, diamond or any others i have found.
Ok, so you build your own.. ever priced inner "c"s.. by the time your done, it would be cheaper to buy it.

If you gonna put a HP up front, then its either currie or HI9.. currie tire size limitation 35" (i would not want a low pinion 9 up front)

Outers, Dedenber is the only rout to go, unless you just happen to have a D60 laying around. (in that case, just put that in there)

Its cheaper to convert the front to 5 lug than new wheels all around and converting my rear HI9 to 8 lug. (1000 bucks for FF conversion)

ok, longfields are BLING.

Actaully, I have built one...it's the same one I've been running for about 7 years now and it didn't cost 6k.

This guy is building a buggy...why would it need to be a HP front?
 
if your going to go through the trouble of putting a 609 up front.. why wouldn't you?

Ok, you built one.. probably out of parts you had laying around.. kudos.. I would do the same if i had the parts laying around.

But not everybody does.

so, your running a stock 9" case up front?

I'm looking at teh REALITY of it.

ok, sorry to thread jack Anglefly
 
it only works in your application in you have a detroit or selectable rear. with a spool or welded rear, the cutting brakes will not work. cutting brakes work in 4wd open rear as the greater friction on one wheel forces the energy to the other side, which in a way will theoretically create 3 wheel drive around the pivot point of the brake you select to lock. now, imagine if that is spooled... both shafts turn together, so braking one side slows the other. the way detroits work only allows for them to be dragged to be open if you want to use the cutting brake method. in other words, a detroit rear front burn will allow this, but not a 4wd front burn.:awesomework:

I run a single rear line lock and a spool with a D300 so I can front dig. It works, works better in the soft/slick stuff, but not so well on rocks. After watching mauler with cutting brakes and detroit I saw his burns are much more effective, but my setup does work.
 
if your going to go through the trouble of putting a 609 up front.. why wouldn't you?

Ok, you built one.. probably out of parts you had laying around.. kudos.. I would do the same if i had the parts laying around.

But not everybody does.

so, your running a stock 9" case up front?

I'm looking at teh REALITY of it.

ok, sorry to thread jack Anglefly


....


why bother...
 
The other thing with front burns INMNSHO is to really get the fronts spinning and turn hard into the burn.If yer gonna burn'em...BURN'EM and make it count!! Also strategically stopping the rears up against or on something to aid it in NOT moving helps a ton!

Anglefly.....I think youve taken on a mighty challenge and are gonna miss a summer of wheelin.I'd put some cash into yer yota and wheel the piss outa it.
 
My .02 time.....

1. Forget the rear steer. You don't need it. You don't want it.

2. Put in cutting brakes at any cost. Two masters with two pedals.

3. Don't mess with the three link. Inverted 4link front and rear.

4. Copy, copy, copy. Don't try to be original.

5. Learn the steps in which a buggy shop would take to build their cars.

6. Ask advice from MANY, use the advice from a FEW.

7. Just build it. It's not going be perfect. Accept that fact.
 
Kick me out of the thread please.

ok

My .02 time.....

1. Forget the rear steer. You don't need it. You don't want it.

2. Put in cutting brakes at any cost. Two masters with two pedals.

3. Don't mess with the three link. Inverted 4link front and rear.

4. Copy, copy, copy. Don't try to be original.

5. Learn the steps in which a buggy shop would take to build their cars.

6. Ask advice from MANY, use the advice from a FEW.

7. Just build it. It's not going be perfect. Accept that fact.


Good advice here
 
Hey Mark,

You mention not to do rear steer... However, it would seem that if one is building a buggy and would eventually want to take said buggy on stuff like the Outlet Mall (or other technical buggy-only trails), rear steer would be great. More hassle and more to break but a nice feature nonetheless.

Your additional thoughts on the matter? (or anyone elses)?
 
Anglefly.....I think youve taken on a mighty challenge and are gonna miss a summer of wheelin.I'd put some cash into yer yota and wheel the piss outa it.

I second this $4500 at going to get you very far.

Make a priority list of what you need Then price everything out before spending a dime.

Have you looked into the Hendrix ftoy chassis? That could be a option for you! Heres a link to it.

http://hendrixmotorsports.com/_wsn/page4.html
 
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