Roccrawler
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TMFabrication said:
1.94 intake and bump up exhaust to a 1.60
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Propane systems
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
1.94 intake and bump up exhaust to a 1.60
where is a good place to buy the forklift tanks/other propane tanks? I have heard the choices are very limited to the sizes of tanks you can buy... I want a huge one. Where do i find it? and of course, cheap is good.
TMFabrication
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I decided to go with multiple forklift tanks. 2 in the rig and 2 in the tow rig.
Roccrawler
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I have bought 6 off ebay $55-$150 ea
go aluminum they are way nicer
two main sizes 8 and 10 gallon
go aluminum they are way nicer
two main sizes 8 and 10 gallon
Roccrawler
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call this guy 516-747-0651
he had like 50 aluminum tanks sellin for 55 ea
he had like 50 aluminum tanks sellin for 55 ea
Roccrawler
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zig80toy said:Thanks, now the question is where is the spare tire going to go.
always wheel with a buddy who has one :redneck:
Toyotanut
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If you are worried about tank size you could also look for an old vehicle that was converted and get the tank out of that.
Roccrawler
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Toyotanut said:If you are worried about tank size you could also look for an old vehicle that was converted and get the tank out of that.
the bad part about a built in tank is you have to take the whole vehicle to fill it.. you cant just keep spares in the tow rig. or if your campin its alot easier to throw the tanks in the back of your truck and run into town, than towing vehicle to town? $.02
Toyotanut
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roccrawler said:the bad part about a built in tank is you have to take the whole vehicle to fill it.. you cant just keep spares in the tow rig. or if your campin its alot easier to throw the tanks in the back of your truck and run into town, than towing vehicle to town? $.02
Good point, but how big are the old built in tanks? I'm sure they are way bigger than the 8 or 10 gallan fork lift ones
Cro-mo rings..... I had issues with mine not seating. My motor did sit for 5 years before it got fired up. I'm sure the hone marks got a bit rusty. 10-15 times on it's side running and a few times up to 275 degrees and it has seated fine.
I run a vialle reg and a techno carb copy for a mixer. I have zero issues. I did have my distributor curved to advance pretty much instantly.
Also helped a friend put a 225 impco on a 22r....it works flawless from the very start
A real good benifit from pane is you get a lower idle and very consistant throttle response.
I run a vialle reg and a techno carb copy for a mixer. I have zero issues. I did have my distributor curved to advance pretty much instantly.
Also helped a friend put a 225 impco on a 22r....it works flawless from the very start
A real good benifit from pane is you get a lower idle and very consistant throttle response.
briejer said:Also helped a friend put a 225 impco on a 22r....it works flawless from the very start
A real good benifit from pane is you get a lower idle and very consistant throttle response.
Did you make an adapter to mount the 225 impco on the 22R intake or did you buy one>?
Roccrawler
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zig80toy said:Did you make an adapter to mount the 225 impco on the 22R intake or did you buy one>?
they made it..........
zig80toy said:Did you make an adapter to mount the 225 impco on the 22R intake or did you buy one>?
A chunk of aluminium, a drill, and a router. Adapted to a stock Toyota carb baseplate
heepofajeep
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Alright, I am coming in pretty late to this thread, and I only skimmed through the pages...
I did the conversion to the 258 engine in my CJ. I took the time to do it right, recurved & upgraded the dist. Ran a impco 300 mixer, model E vaporizer, century electric lock-off valve.
The most important part of the conversion imho is the ignition. You really need to spend some time to tweak it to get the maximum power out of your rig. Remember you want to have all your advance in by about 3000 rpm = softer dist. springs. Also, you need more final advance = notching out the stop on the dist. that sets the overall advance. No need for Vacuum advance.
As for the performance, I noticed better throttle response & seat-of-the pants feel (bottom-end torque), but less overall HP. Gas mileage dropped from 18 (gasoline) to 14 (lpg) in regular driving conditions. I probably could have squeezed a bit more out, as I kind of gave up on tuning the ignition to an extent.
As far as someone mentioning that LPG is lighter than gasoline, you are correct, but you are forgetting the tank! IMHO weight is a major concern with LPG because the pressure-rated tank weighs much more than a gasoline tank of twice its size. Also, with lpg, you are stuck with only a few shapes & sizes tank. I owned, but never used in the cj, a 30 gal tank, and that thing weighed well over 100lbs (empty), just to illustrate the point...
One thing that one of the guys at suburban propane mentioned (they were VERY helpful for me) is that inline motors do not do as well as V motors. I don't know why this is, but after reading a lot of writeups throughout the web, and noting mileage & power for vehicles before & after converting, I tend to agree. This might have to do with the mixer, or flow properties of the intake runner, I don't know, and this is just heresay anyhow. But you will notice on POR that the *most* of the guys with lpg in their Yotas mention the fuel mileage decrease, whereas *most* of the guys with chevy 350s (as a V example), noticed no mileage change... Take it for what its worth, that is just my observation.
As far as the final result? I really liked it for off-road. However, I don't think I would do it again for a dd (like my CJ). I ended up running dual fuel on my CJ, which I was VERY happy with. I also noticed gasoline ran much better after having tuned the CJ's ignition for the propane (mainly because I made it so there was a much hotter spark). Propane is just too big a pain to buy for a DD... No running to the store at midnight & expecting to fill up, etc. Also, the price varies wildly from place to place, so there is really only a few places I opted to fill up at.
FWIW, if you want to check out the CJ, I will be selling it on Ebay in two weeks, lol.
I just sold my 225 mixer on Ebay for $50. Ebay is by far the best place to get your parts. Ktsomethingorother on Ebay from Canada is always selling complete junkyard conversions (that's who I got mine from).
Alright, that is probably enough for now. Have to go take a Mech. Eng. Design final now :censored:
I did the conversion to the 258 engine in my CJ. I took the time to do it right, recurved & upgraded the dist. Ran a impco 300 mixer, model E vaporizer, century electric lock-off valve.
The most important part of the conversion imho is the ignition. You really need to spend some time to tweak it to get the maximum power out of your rig. Remember you want to have all your advance in by about 3000 rpm = softer dist. springs. Also, you need more final advance = notching out the stop on the dist. that sets the overall advance. No need for Vacuum advance.
As for the performance, I noticed better throttle response & seat-of-the pants feel (bottom-end torque), but less overall HP. Gas mileage dropped from 18 (gasoline) to 14 (lpg) in regular driving conditions. I probably could have squeezed a bit more out, as I kind of gave up on tuning the ignition to an extent.
As far as someone mentioning that LPG is lighter than gasoline, you are correct, but you are forgetting the tank! IMHO weight is a major concern with LPG because the pressure-rated tank weighs much more than a gasoline tank of twice its size. Also, with lpg, you are stuck with only a few shapes & sizes tank. I owned, but never used in the cj, a 30 gal tank, and that thing weighed well over 100lbs (empty), just to illustrate the point...
One thing that one of the guys at suburban propane mentioned (they were VERY helpful for me) is that inline motors do not do as well as V motors. I don't know why this is, but after reading a lot of writeups throughout the web, and noting mileage & power for vehicles before & after converting, I tend to agree. This might have to do with the mixer, or flow properties of the intake runner, I don't know, and this is just heresay anyhow. But you will notice on POR that the *most* of the guys with lpg in their Yotas mention the fuel mileage decrease, whereas *most* of the guys with chevy 350s (as a V example), noticed no mileage change... Take it for what its worth, that is just my observation.
As far as the final result? I really liked it for off-road. However, I don't think I would do it again for a dd (like my CJ). I ended up running dual fuel on my CJ, which I was VERY happy with. I also noticed gasoline ran much better after having tuned the CJ's ignition for the propane (mainly because I made it so there was a much hotter spark). Propane is just too big a pain to buy for a DD... No running to the store at midnight & expecting to fill up, etc. Also, the price varies wildly from place to place, so there is really only a few places I opted to fill up at.
FWIW, if you want to check out the CJ, I will be selling it on Ebay in two weeks, lol.
I just sold my 225 mixer on Ebay for $50. Ebay is by far the best place to get your parts. Ktsomethingorother on Ebay from Canada is always selling complete junkyard conversions (that's who I got mine from).
Alright, that is probably enough for now. Have to go take a Mech. Eng. Design final now :censored:
Last edited:
Roccrawler
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good input...
just FYI the aluminum tanks are way lighter than the steel.. grab some if you can
just FYI the aluminum tanks are way lighter than the steel.. grab some if you can
junkyard jim
Well-Known Member
I have a 225 mixer and several tanks (10 gallon portable, 30 gallon XJ manifold set and a 100 gallon under box mounted tank for my J10) After my stroker motor is broken in, I will be switching to Liquid propane injection (made by Bi-Phase back east)
heepofajeep
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junkyard jim said:I have a 225 mixer and several tanks (10 gallon portable, 30 gallon XJ manifold set and a 100 gallon under box mounted tank for my J10) After my stroker motor is broken in, I will be switching to Liquid propane injection (made by Bi-Phase back east)
I would love to hear more details about that! What are the pros/cons to doing that (injection)? How much $$$? BTw, while you're at it, can I get more details on your engine? I am toying with the idea of doing that to my cherokee (since I've got the parts lying around anyway).
junkyard jim
Well-Known Member
Biggest drawback to injection (besides the price) is vapor lock. I have to build a custom intake with a cooling jacket so I can get it running after warm shutdowns.
My motor is 4.0L block (shaved to zero deck for 11:1 compression) and 0.030 4.0L pistons with 258 crank and rods (I would rather get rods 0.030 longer and not shave the deck. Gotta watch out the pistons don't come too far down out of the bore and bind in the hole!) Still trying to decide which cam (currently have the HO stock cam) I'm running the Renix head unless I get another HO one to build (did a 3 angle grind, port and polish the Renix already)
The plan is to use an HO EFI harness and computer to run the injectors, but I hope to tap in and run a knock sensor so I can still manually adjust timing a bit. (adjustable crank sensor, adjustable MAP and a few other goodies) Just trying to find time and $$$ to finish it (had to cough up $2,000 for a new garage to work in)
My motor is 4.0L block (shaved to zero deck for 11:1 compression) and 0.030 4.0L pistons with 258 crank and rods (I would rather get rods 0.030 longer and not shave the deck. Gotta watch out the pistons don't come too far down out of the bore and bind in the hole!) Still trying to decide which cam (currently have the HO stock cam) I'm running the Renix head unless I get another HO one to build (did a 3 angle grind, port and polish the Renix already)
The plan is to use an HO EFI harness and computer to run the injectors, but I hope to tap in and run a knock sensor so I can still manually adjust timing a bit. (adjustable crank sensor, adjustable MAP and a few other goodies) Just trying to find time and $$$ to finish it (had to cough up $2,000 for a new garage to work in)
