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Propane systems

zig80toy said:
Yeah, but i want to drive it on the street too. I have a 22/20R which has pretty good power, but not enough that i can give some up. I guess i will have to though.

it depends on the year of the rig and if your in emission test area. if older than 97' then can be converted legally. if it's dedicated propane then a state inspection is required to run on road. have title changed from g (gas) to p(propane) and a propane permit that's about $100 depending on vehicl weight. it's just for gas tax. if newer than 98' then a certified kit needs to be purchased, installed and inspected.
 
4link said:
it depends on the year of the rig and if your in emission test area. if older than 97' then can be converted legally. if it's dedicated propane then a state inspection is required to run on road. have title changed from g (gas) to p(propane) and a propane permit that's about $100 depending on vehicl weight. it's just for gas tax. if newer than 98' then a certified kit needs to be purchased, installed and inspected.

I have a 1980 toy so no emissions for me.:D However, what is all this talk about getting a new title and crap? Do i have to pay $100 per year or is it a 1 time thing?
 
roccrawler said:
If its a street vehicle it has to be registered in this state as a propane vehicle, then there are tighter restrictions, I dont know all the details,,

or dont worry about it :redneck: but I didnt say that


omg! you are killing me. yes it does have to be registered as a propane vehicle. just so when tab time comes around they want to make sure they get there road tax. yes it does have to be inspected, just to make sure it's safe. other then that there are no other restrictions. oh ya, by the way if you convert to a dedicated propane system your emission exempt when your title gets changed.
 
zig80toy said:
I have a 1980 toy so no emissions for me.:D However, what is all this talk about getting a new title and crap? Do i have to pay $100 per year or is it a 1 time thing?

yes, $100 per year for the tab. you have to remember you avoid the .32 per gallon gas tax. you do have to change the title as most reputable places won't fill a propane vehicle without that tab on the vehicle. this is for dedicated propane. if you run dual fuel g & p don't try to change anything because it's still able to run on gas.
 
roccrawler said:
mine burns zero oil .. not sure your resources

nor does it even smoke, The rings seem to have set fine and I do run chromoloy,

my knowledge is just experience. I'm sure you can search the web and hear bad things along with good

jUST from stuff I have read. Like I say I know nothing about this setup...
 
So, how would you determine what size mixer you would need? Is it solely based on engine size, or are there other factors that come into play?
 
The more I think about it the more it kinda makes sense. In actuality when fule enters the camber it should be a vapor not only from the induction system but the fact you have heat. Now if you are getting raw fuel on your rings--you will cause excessive heat and either score the cylinder walls or cause the rings to stretch the ring lands(been there done that). So it would make sense for the rings to seat by the pure heat generated from the friction of the rings/cylinder bore(the big reason they hone the cylinder walls and not make them a pure polished surface)..

So you would think that running propane would not cause any problems.

But granted troy with your setup you are not what I would consider the norm due to your setup..
 
you can look at charts and graphs all you want but when it come right down to it its trial and error..
 
crash said:
The more I think about it the more it kinda makes sense. In actuality when fule enters the camber it should be a vapor not only from the induction system but the fact you have heat. Now if you are getting raw fuel on your rings--you will cause excessive heat and either score the cylinder walls or cause the rings to stretch the ring lands(been there done that). So it would make sense for the rings to seat by the pure heat generated from the friction of the rings/cylinder bore(the big reason they hone the cylinder walls and not make them a pure polished surface)..

So you would think that running propane would not cause any problems.

But granted troy with your setup you are not what I would consider the norm due to your setup..


that makes sence to me??
 
4 link, what is your problem with roccrawler? can you guys kiss and make up or something. so we can get back to the important stuff.
More on propane!!!!!! Less on talking :****: !!!!!!!!
 
zig80toy said:
4 link, what is your problem with roccrawler? can you guys kiss and make up or something. so we can get back to the important stuff.
More on propane!!!!!! Less on talking :****: !!!!!!!!

i actually don't have a problem with him. we are very good friends and have been for awhile. i just love to be thorn in his side. on the other hand i can't stand it when somebody says something as fact when they really don't know jack. i'm sorry roccrawler but this is not trial and error. come on were not the first ones to do this. people have been converting there rigs for years. there, now i've said my piece. sorry i will try to keep the banter down and stay on topic.:D
 
if anyone would like some assistance and would like to PM me to cut out the BS feel free. I would be happy to help..

:cool:
 
Why is there only 3 of us talking about propane? Is there really not that many other people interested in it?
 
I've thought about building the next motor for the big truck for propane.....or really good gas....(11:1-ish)

my biggest concern w/ going to 'pane is fuel capacity.......cuz the fat-**** can move through alot of fuel when workin' hard (sand....SNOW...or general agressive situations)....
and to go down to the 'con or something and plan to spend 4 days on the trail, thats alot of propane tanks to carry with me.......and just carrying 'extra' fuel isn't near as easy as w/ a liquid fuel....


my redneck double pumper works pretty good for me, but it could always be better....
 
Well, the propane is liquid while in the tank, but you bring up a good point. Maybe roccrawler can help us out with this one. What do you do for a fuel gauge? Do you have to run a small pressure line up to the dash. Not cool. Or is there some kind of electrical sending unit you can hook up to the tank and run a wire up to the dash? anyone out there with a fuel gauge on there propane setup?????
 
"technically"......yes is it a liquid.....so long as its really cold or under pressure....

the gauge part is pretty easy, if you're running forklift tanks, most have fuel gauges built into them...

but, to carry extra fuel with you.....you'll need a bunch of forklift tanks....

unless I could basically make my own filling station on the trailer.....big propane tank to fill the smaller ones.....

and not have it get stolen...
 
Berne said:
unless I could basically make my own filling station on the trailer.....big propane tank to fill the smaller ones.....

and not have it get stolen...

How much propane can you carry around on your trailer in a tank before you have to get a flammable materials placard and such? :D
 
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I'll be converting over to propane after Memorial Day, working on finding the tanks and brackets (for cheap) and will get the other parts through propaneguy. I'm thinking about swapping some smaller chambered heads on to get the compression up over 10:1. I'll be losing some valve size (2.02's now.) What are your guy's opinion on higher compression vs. smaller valves. I think it may run better low to mid range with a better intake velocity and how often do you really run a V8 into the upper RPMS for an extended amount of time around here with all the trees:redneck:
 
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