S&N Fab Bravo 2RC.

CHOP SHOP · Mar 23, 2015

Seems to me the original S&N design had the rear shocks mounted in a way that one side of the mounting eye was tabbed to the inner frame rail and the other side of the eye was tabbed to the outer rub rail/tub line.

With flex it seemed like the chassis rails would not flex equally with the rub rail that also seen impact flex too.

I like having BOTH tabs on the same tube like it is now.

PORTER · Mar 23, 2015

Choppy, you talking about this style?

CHOP SHOP · Mar 23, 2015

Thats the mount.
Tube is structure, a shock eye should not become structure that connects two tubes together.

Just my .02 aanyways! :redneck:

PORTER · Mar 23, 2015

CHOP SHOP said:
Thats the mount.
Tube is structure, a shock eye should not become structure that connects two tubes together.

Just my .02 aanyways! :redneck:

IIRC, those mounts were done on the bravo 2s, the original Bravo chassis had many shock mount configurations. I could be wrong tho, maybe Jay will chime in sometime on the subject.

Roccrawler · Mar 23, 2015

:corn::corn::corn::corn: :awesomework:

PORTER · Mar 23, 2015

Roccrawler said:
:corn::corn::corn::corn: :awesomework:

Sup Sucka.:redneck:

boxboy · Mar 24, 2015

nice to see this one get put back together! :awesomework:

ChrisStewart · Mar 24, 2015

How'd that Dana 70 turn out? Shorten it yet?

PORTER · Mar 24, 2015

ChrisStewart said:
How'd that Dana 70 turn out? Shorten it yet?

Yes, narrowed to 65". Just need to gear it and cut the shafts down.

PORTER · Mar 27, 2015

So now I will be able to have the bead locks/Maxxis Creepy stickys ready to take over as soon as Richard gives me the Ok to bring them by because I purchased some Trail ready HDs from John@Auburn Car Repair and got some Maxxis DOT Creepy Crawlers mounted up today. Will have 40" Stickys on the buggy and 40"DOT's on the family TJ, I wanted both sets of Trailreadys to be able to be swapped back and forth for snow runs because stickys no bueno in the cold stuff. Pic of da bling.

Hampton · Mar 31, 2015

This thing done yet??? I'll have to rent the TJ from you seeing I'll never have my done...

PORTER · Apr 10, 2015

Time for driveshafts, since running an inverted 4 link suspension means fitting a small diameter driveline is crucial to not rubbing the upper/lower links when suspension is cycling as well as clearence to the transmission running axle shaft driveshafts is an excellent choice for fitment and durability. Round stock used was some leftover rear axle shafts mated to a 1350 slipyoke and a 1350 u-bolt style forged pinion yoke off a dana 60. He machined the end of axle to fit in pinion yoke and same to the 1350 slip, these will take incredible abuse and laugh at being drug across the rocks etc. All tig welded/pre heated/post heated, and shot peened to relieve any stress on metal. Also having 2 forged yokes at the pinion will make u-joint replacement a breeze as you just have to take off 4 u-bolt to replace.. Here are some pics.

CHOP SHOP · Apr 10, 2015

Thats purdy!

PORTER · Apr 11, 2015

Take a picture right away because it won't look like that for long.:redneck:

dirk · Apr 11, 2015

Did you mount the motor offset to provide clearance to the tranny? Or does your atlas give you more room than a D300?

PORTER · Apr 11, 2015

dirk said:
Did you mount the motor offset to provide clearance to the tranny? Or does your atlas give you more room than a D300?

Tho the atlas helps it is slightly offset to drivers side. My axles are narrowed to 65.5, yours are full width. Clearance between the shaft and pan should be pretty similar due to transfer case lengths if that makes sense.

ChrisStewart · Apr 11, 2015

On mine I had to kick my motor 1" driver and 7 degrees sloped down toward the tranny. I was dead set on getting a one piece to fit. I have a 1/16" of an inch between the starter bolt and my mock up 1/3/4 shaft. Porter did you talk to Richard?

PORTER · Apr 11, 2015

ChrisStewart said:
On mine I had to kick my motor 1" driver and 7 degrees sloped down toward the tranny. I was dead set on getting a one piece to fit. I have a 1/16" of an inch between the starter bolt and my mock up 1/3/4 shaft. Porter did you talk to Richard?

I gave him your number, I would think you will get a call tomorrow.

Hampton · Apr 11, 2015

I like the double yokes setup on the front.

PORTER · Apr 11, 2015

Hampton said:
I like the double yolk setup on the front.

Its a simple setup, going to love how fast a joint change will take. NASCAR pit crew speed.:redneck:

Clark · Apr 11, 2015

Looks good so far. Pretty cool on the double yoke. Mine contacted the lower link at full droop, or i would have liked to run a one peice.

PORTER · Apr 11, 2015

Clark said:
Looks good so far. Pretty cool on the double yoke. Mine contacted the lower link at full droop, or i would have liked to run a one peice.

Richard said at full droop it wasn't touching but in a force flex situation it was a possibility. My last buggy barely did also. Only time will tell, if need be I will go 2 piece but hopefully not. If it barely touches I won't be too worried.

dirk · Apr 11, 2015

Mine barely rubs the tranny pan, but rubs the lower link hard enough to make a wear mark in the link bar.

PORTER · Apr 11, 2015

dirk said:
Mine barely rubs the tranny pan, but rubs the lower link hard enough to make a wear mark in the link bar.

what's changed as when I sold it to you it didn't rub?

dirk · Apr 11, 2015

PORTER said:
what's changed as when I sold it to you it didn't rub?

I'm pretty sure it's always rubbed a little bit...at ride height it doesn't touch. Only when it articulates. Probably could have set the new motor off to the driver's side a tad more.

dirk · Apr 11, 2015

Shoot me some info on where you sourced your driveline parts...I have some old 44 shafts. Probably just need 2 forged 1350 yokes and a 1350 yoke for the d300 front output.

PORTER · Apr 12, 2015

dirk said:
Shoot me some info on where you sourced your driveline parts...I have some old 44 shafts. Probably just need 2 forged 1350 yokes and a 1350 yoke for the d300 front output.

You have pm sucka.:D