Six Shooters vs 5th stud

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How do you forge a alredy cast part? I thot it was one or nuther. Like cranks.
And ***enin the nut on the stud repeatedly will pull the threds out.
 
boardbysled said:
Trail-Gear has em, or you could really upgrade and jump up to D44 ARP studs. Just have to tap the knuckle for the larger stud I believe.
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i know who sells them, all 8 of my top studs are TG ARP i was refering to the picture above that says arp studs and 5th stud but there were no arp studs in the pic!!!!!!!!!
 
arp studs

and the 9/16's studs from arp look almost identical except for a slightly different finish... unlike the toy ones that have the hex head and zinc color. I was under the impression that parts mike only carried arp stuff... so that's what i thought i ordered. but either way i think my setup should hold to 35's and 37's in the future
 
TRG4runner said:
Biggest thing is keeping the studs tight. Check/tighten them each time you go out, it's not like its difficult. After i learned the hard way on my first rig, now before i go out i just hit them with the impact. I'm running 39.5's with stock studs and no 5th stud and i'm doing great.:awesomework:
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I hope you tighten your U-bolts everytime as well.:eeek:
 
CHOP SHOP said:
Wow, Im gonna have to start doing that. :awesomework:

Hey guys no need to upgrade your studs. :mad:
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Sorry i was stating the obvious but probably at least half the studs that fail are from retards not tightening there **** before/after wheeling. Maybe most of you guys don't know that since your too busy wheeling through your computer. :rolleyes: Whoops, sorry if i offended :fawkdancesmiley:
 
WHITE TRASH said:
They are made of cast steel then forged to straighten up the grain structure and strengthen the part.

Can they be welded sure I'd imagine they can. I've built a handful of crossover arms and they welded great just like any normal piece of steel should weld. I've never personally welded on a knuckle so I can't tell you how it welds but I did include a set of 4xlabs 6 stud plates with my yota axles to go with my Marlin 6 stud steering arms.
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I just showed this post (and others that follow) to the engineers in the office. They all agreed you are a ****ing idiot, some said they never laughed so hard in their life, one said you backstroke like Michael Phelps.
Casting and forging are two completely different processes a forged part is "formed" into shape usually with hydraulic force where a casting is "poured" into a mold. A forged part is generally stronger than cast but more expensive, he said you can probably forge a knuckle but the machining required wouldn't be cost effective. On the other hand a steering arm is relatively easy to forge because it is far less complicated than the knuckle.
 
Handover Fist said:
I just showed this post (and others that follow) to the engineers in the office. They all agreed you are a ****ing idiot, some said they never laughed so hard in their life, one said you backstroke like Michael Phelps.
Casting and forging are two completely different processes a forged part is "formed" into shape usually with hydraulic force where a casting is "poured" into a mold. A forged part is generally stronger than cast but more expensive, he said you can probably forge a knuckle but the machining required wouldn't be cost effective. On the other hand a steering arm is relatively easy to forge because it is far less complicated than the knuckle.
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I shot him down awhile ago and he just kept flyin hi.:rolleyes:

Thank you for grounding him.:awesomework:
 
WHITE TRASH said:
Oh darn I was wrong about something woa is me whatever shall I do now... :haha:
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Don't talk like you know something when you really don' then use a lame cop out when your found to be a fraud. I wonder how much more of your tech info is complete BS.
 
What the materials are made of and whether they are cast or forged or weldable has something to do with the O.P's question...keep it civil fellas...will clean out the irrelevent bs shortly...If you want to debate metallurgy in general, then start a new thread!!!:awesomework:
 
zukkev said:
What the materials are made of and whether they are cast or forged or weldable has nothing to do with the O.P's question...keep it on topic fellas...will clean out the irrelevent bs shortly...If you want to debate metallurgy then start a new thread, and I will merge the related posts to it...!!!:awesomework:
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It has everything to do with it.

We are talking about knuckles. (six shooters and 5th studs both go on knuckles)

the 5th stud requires welding (reason we are talking about welding and the different materials that are being welded)

Then another feller mentioned the weld on 6 stud kit (completely relevant to this thread and its subject content)

The weld on kit needs to be welded on to a special material if its even going to work. making the further discussion relavant to the topic.

Then some MISSINFORMATION was thrown out there on welding these products up properly. When such info was debated it was found to be false.

Without such a debate a noob might have welded upa rather unsafe setup and killed a busload of nuns.

But hey get to housecleanin.:D
 
Yeah well, ok, ya got me :booo:....yes it does, but don't the kits requiring welding come with some sort of instructions to help from said noob botching it together???
As for irrelevent material...keep it civil from here on out (not pointing the finger at you, just a general request)......and I will let it ride as long as I don't get instructions to do otherwise...:awesomework: There are a few posts in here that will go buh-bye, as they are not relevent...
 
zukkev said:
Yeah well, ok, ya got me :booo:....yes it does, but don't the kits requiring welding come with some sort of instructions to help from said noob botching it together???
As for irrelevent material...keep it civil from here on out (not pointing the finger at you, just a general request)......and I will let it ride as long as I don't get instructions to do otherwise...:awesomework: There are a few posts in here that will go buh-bye, as they are not relevent...
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nahhhhhhh i believe every website that sells products that need to be weld have a disclaimer that states "welding should be done by a professional, or someone that is an expierenced welder......... welding skills"

I.E. if you don't know what the fawk your doing STOP..... then again ,what would be have to laugh at ....when it breaks latter :fawkdancesmiley::haha:
 
i used to break knuckle studs every time out..
i bought TG magnum knuckle studs. replaced the top 8 studs.. have not had a problem in 3 years. havnt even had one come loose...

best upgrade i have done. now i break other stuff,not my steering.
 
crapyota said:
i used to break knuckle studs every time out..
i bought TG magnum knuckle studs. replaced the top 8 studs.. have not had a problem in 3 years. havnt even had one come loose...

best upgrade i have done. now i break other stuff,not my steering.
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cool that was also one of my questions if i should just buy the top 8 and leave the others alone... thanks for all the info guys
 
Flat-Bed_3rd_Gen said:
cool that was also one of my questions if i should just buy the top 8 and leave the others alone... thanks for all the info guys
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its all in your driving style and how the rig is setup and used.

I have a truck here with a 5th stud on it and he has broken at least one magnum stud while running a fifth stud. He went to he toyota dealer and asked for a steering stud and they sold him a replacement for $4. The dealer had ARPs just like the ones we got from trailgear.

But we wheel more and harder in a month than 90 percent do in a year.

Oh yeah here it is, broken ARP. From a toy on 38x16 wide TSLs with a v6, exo, elocker front, yadda yadda.
 

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CHOP SHOP said:
its all in your driving style and how the rig is setup and used.

I have a truck here with a 5th stud on it and he has broken at least one magnum stud while running a fifth stud. He went to he toyota dealer and asked for a steering stud and they sold him a replacement for $4. The dealer had ARPs just like the ones we got from trailgear.

But we wheel more and harder in a month than 90 percent do in a year.

Oh yeah here it is, broken ARP. From a toy on 38x16 wide TSLs with a v6, exo, elocker front, yadda yadda.
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well right now i am open in the front and i know everything breaks eventually
and yeah everything has to do with how you drive/wheel, right now i am concerned for most durable vs cost and if i can get away for a while with the 5th stud and only 8arps then i will be happy.

which toy dealer did that guy go to?
 
I knew the dealers started selling steering studs with the E torx heads on them but since when are they legitimate ARP's?
 
Flat-Bed_3rd_Gen said:
well right now i am open in the front and i know everything breaks eventually
and yeah everything has to do with how you drive/wheel, right now i am concerned for most durable vs cost and if i can get away for a while with the 5th stud and only 8arps then i will be happy.

which toy dealer did that guy go to?
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I believe he went to toyota of puyallup?

If you havent killed or worked the stockers loose yet, run them and a 5th stud.

If you have abused the stockers and tightened them several times or the truck was a beater before you got it then replace the top studs and do a 5th stud.

There is no need to upgrade the ones on the bottom cap in case you wondered.

Really the 5th stud vs 6 shooters is about skill and cost, not strength.

I think a properly installed 5ht stud is just as strong as a six shooter.

But it takes skill and tools and good parts before a 5th stud works at all.

If you have no skill or tools or confidence to get the job done right, then the shooter is pretty much a no brainer.

I quit recomending the 5th stud mod to my friends cuz they get a pair of bolts and show up and want me to do it for free. While its not tough, it gets old tho.

If you want to save a buck and have a brain and tools, go fifth stud.

If you have more loot than tools and skills, then go 6 shooter.

That simple.

If you have no tools and skills, and you have no loot, dont get a 5th stud to save a buck and then show up at my place tho. :redneck: :beer:
 
WHITE TRASH said:
I knew the dealers started selling steering studs with the E torx heads on them but since when are they legitimate ARP's?
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Im not going ASSUME anything, but side by side they have the same dimension, torx nipple on top, and exact coloring/coating/plating that the arps have.

I would however trust an assumption that they were the same as an arp over TrailGear saying/printing that the ones they sell are actual arps.

Trust my own judgement/assumption or trust trail gear? Your call.

Dealer was about $4 each too.
 
CHOP SHOP said:
I believe he went to toyota of puyallup?

If you havent killed or worked the stockers loose yet, run them and a 5th stud.

If you have abused the stockers and tightened them several times or the truck was a beater before you got it then replace the top studs and do a 5th stud.

There is no need to upgrade the ones on the bottom cap in case you wondered.

Really the 5th stud vs 6 shooters is about skill and cost, not strength.

I think a properly installed 5ht stud is just as strong as a six shooter.

But it takes skill and tools and good parts before a 5th stud works at all.

If you have no skill or tools or confidence to get the job done right, then the shooter is pretty much a no brainer.

I quit recomending the 5th stud mod to my friends cuz they get a pair of bolts and show up and want me to do it for free. While its not tough, it gets old tho.

If you want to save a buck and have a brain and tools, go fifth stud.

If you have more loot than tools and skills, then go 6 shooter.

That simple.

If you have no tools and skills, and you have no loot, dont get a 5th stud to save a buck and then show up at my place tho. :redneck: :beer:
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yeah i have no welding skills or tools but my buddy does. i just cant really spend the money on the 6 shooters and if the 5th stud is just as good then i will go that route and get arps
 
WHITE TRASH said:
I bought ARP's from front range and they didn't look anythign like what tg or the dealer sells...

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfo...n.jpg?osCsid=1cad4a546bdf49595d4b05132ba193a4
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they are probably not true ARP has anyone (including myself, i have the magnum ARP from TG) seen the ARP stamp on the box or any parts we have bought, claiming to be ARP... my guess is no..... hell i had napa tell me that the knuckel studs they sell are grade 8 and just as strong as ARP, they said, "that the A in ARP was for the Grade 8" ......... i laughed .....then bought the magnums from TG

CHOPSHOP i am not arguing or saying they are not the same but don't judge a book by its cover..... looks dont equel tensil strength
 
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