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Stephen Broady's "An Actual Trail Rig" build

smbroady82

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Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
4,444
Location
Huntsville, AL
Whats the plan on the valve for the accusump? I'm guessing swapping to electric or do you just plan to use it for a preoiler?
Just a little extra security in case I lose pressure for whatever reason.
Won’t be adding the electronic valve. I don’t plan on messing with a valve every time I stop/ start it.
 

Bebop

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2013
Messages
1,732
I think I’d have cut/milled the tube clamp side off and bolted it to some tabs.

Or use worm clamps and resi mount tabs?

Just a little extra security in case I lose pressure for whatever reason.
Won’t be adding the electronic valve. I don’t plan on messing with a valve every time I stop/ start it.

That how mine is, I never touch the manual valve and it works great.
 

extremetownie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2009
Messages
571
Broady
I installed a electric valve in mine that is energized with the ignition switch. That did a few thing for me. First with the accumulator i was not smart enough to check my oil . The LS pans dont have a lot of room for extra oil,so mine leaked a lot . I blamed it on the accumulator dumping all the oil in the pan when not running. So with the electric valve , when i shut off the motor the oil is trapped. I can easily check my oil, without a calculator to add or subtract the oil from the accumulator. Second , every-time i turned the ignition on the engine was flooded with oil ,so my engine was always per oiled. Third they are less than $20 on ebay , and mine has lasted over 5 years.
 

smbroady82

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Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
4,444
Location
Huntsville, AL
Broady
I installed a electric valve in mine that is energized with the ignition switch. That did a few thing for me. First with the accumulator i was not smart enough to check my oil . The LS pans dont have a lot of room for extra oil,so mine leaked a lot . I blamed it on the accumulator dumping all the oil in the pan when not running. So with the electric valve , when i shut off the motor the oil is trapped. I can easily check my oil, without a calculator to add or subtract the oil from the accumulator. Second , every-time i turned the ignition on the engine was flooded with oil ,so my engine was always per oiled. Third they are less than $20 on ebay , and mine has lasted over 5 years.
Definitely some good points there. I'll keep that in mind.

If I went that route, I like the idea of being energized with the ignition switch for sure.
 

wizzo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
1,935
Location
glasgow, ky
Or use worm clamps and resi mount tabs?

Hose Clamps?:eek:

Nah, get out of here with that peasantry.



You cant' see the mounts after the body panel is on, so I wouldn't change it at this point.

No worm gear clamps will be harmed in the making of this buggy.

The goal is to keep this thing clean. I don't want clamps and zip ties everywhere.

So I made the stand offs for the steering cooler to clamp to instead of cutting holes in panels and having them seen. It'll be covered by the panels.
 

Bebop

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2013
Messages
1,732
I was just pointing out another way of doing things that works good. Zip ties and hose clamps are all over trophy trucks. They aren't bad.

I also understand the whole idea behind the solution that was chosen here. High end look and all.
 

smbroady82

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
4,444
Location
Huntsville, AL
I was just pointing out another way of doing things that works good. Zip ties and hose clamps are all over trophy trucks. They aren't bad.

I also understand the whole idea behind the solution that was chosen here. High end look and all.

I'm with ya man, yeah we just want this one to be as nice as possible initially. It pained me to order my fire extinguisher mounts that use band clamps this week ..just couldn't justify $150/ pop or so for bling + the cost of the extinguishers. So it will in fact have a few band clamps. :(
 

smbroady82

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Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
4,444
Location
Huntsville, AL
what kinda mounts did you get? I'm sure wizzo and the hive mind here could come up with an alternate mounting method.


I've used these before with good luck on a few other vehicles.
 

jeff150

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2010
Messages
592
Location
Hazel Green, AL

I've used these before with good luck on a few other vehicles.
Could you use something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FETT3FO/?tag=hardlinecrawlers-20
 

FlatlandFSJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Messages
1,057
Location
SoWal Florida
Broady
I installed a electric valve in mine that is energized with the ignition switch. That did a few thing for me. First with the accumulator i was not smart enough to check my oil . The LS pans dont have a lot of room for extra oil,so mine leaked a lot . I blamed it on the accumulator dumping all the oil in the pan when not running. So with the electric valve , when i shut off the motor the oil is trapped. I can easily check my oil, without a calculator to add or subtract the oil from the accumulator. Second , every-time i turned the ignition on the engine was flooded with oil ,so my engine was always per oiled. Third they are less than $20 on ebay , and mine has lasted over 5 years.

This is what I was thinking about when I asked. I put the valves on them that run off the ign switch relay with a toggle hidden under the dash. Extra switch is there to shut it off for maintenance or hooking up to the computer without ever needing to start the motor.

I didnt want that much extra oil in the pan if it wasnt running, and as Roger mentioned..I'm to lazy to keep up with this much more oil or trying to put a new mark the dipstick.
 

redneckengineered

Trailer Park Panty Dropper
Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
2,233
Location
The Land of High Horsepower and Low IQ
Broady
I installed a electric valve in mine that is energized with the ignition switch. That did a few thing for me. First with the accumulator i was not smart enough to check my oil . The LS pans dont have a lot of room for extra oil,so mine leaked a lot . I blamed it on the accumulator dumping all the oil in the pan when not running. So with the electric valve , when i shut off the motor the oil is trapped. I can easily check my oil, without a calculator to add or subtract the oil from the accumulator. Second , every-time i turned the ignition on the engine was flooded with oil ,so my engine was always per oiled. Third they are less than $20 on ebay , and mine has lasted over 5 years.

I took a small punch to my dip stick and marked it at 6 quarts, added the extra for the accumulator and then marked it again. I've never been accused of being smart but it seems to work fine.
 

Piros 1

Member
HC Supporter
Joined
Mar 5, 2012
Messages
12
Specs:
WOD rock bouncer chassis
6.0L LS based motor
TH400 from PTC w/ ultra bell
Atlas 3.0 race case w/ Mark Williams 1410 yokes and strap kits
Crane 14 bolt from with magnum C's and Knuckles, Mark Williams spool
14 bolt rear w/ Mark Williams 300M shafts
Radflo 2.5 coil-overs all around
Radflo 2" air bumps
CBR radiator and transmission cooler

Stephen Broady brought this to me as some what of a roller. He had WOD set up as a roller but he decided to make some improvements. He swapped from ORI's in favor of the Radflo 2.5 coil-overs. He had a passenger drop HP60 and went to the 14 bolt front. He had it set up with a standard Atlas and upgraded to the race case. Swapped from a griffin radiator to a CBR with cradle or "sandwich" style mounting. All of these changes required a bit of modifications to what was already there.

I'll let Broady add info as well, this is his build thread. I'm just lucky enough to have good friends that trust me to work on their buggys!
Specs:
WOD rock bouncer chassis
6.0L LS based motor
TH400 from PTC w/ ultra bell
Atlas 3.0 race case w/ Mark Williams 1410 yokes and strap kits
Crane 14 bolt from with magnum C's and Knuckles, Mark Williams spool
14 bolt rear w/ Mark Williams 300M shafts
Radflo 2.5 coil-overs all around
Radflo 2" air bumps
CBR radiator and transmission cooler

Stephen Broady brought this to me as some what of a roller. He had WOD set up as a roller but he decided to make some improvements. He swapped from ORI's in favor of the Radflo 2.5 coil-overs. He had a passenger drop HP60 and went to the 14 bolt front. He had it set up with a standard Atlas and upgraded to the race case. Swapped from a griffin radiator to a CBR with cradle or "sandwich" style mounting. All of these changes required a bit of modifications to what was already there.

I'll let Broady add info as well, this is his build thread. I'm just lucky enough to have good friends that trust me to work on their buggys!
Curious why you dumped the ORI’s for coil overs? I have heard good things about the ORI shocks but have no experience with them.
 

smbroady82

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
4,444
Location
Huntsville, AL
Curious why you dumped the ORI’s for coil overs? I have heard good things about the ORI shocks but have no experience with them.
I've ran them both before and prefer the ride and performance of a tuned coilover.
ORIs have their place, I ran a set on a 4 cylinder rig for years and had no complaints. They do just fine in slower speed applications IMO.
I don't think I would ever buy a new set again unless I was just completely strapped for room on a rig. Not having to run bump stops and a sway bar does help with packaging.
 

ridered3

Not Rigless
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
6,367
Location
Rockvale, TN
Curious why you dumped the ORI’s for coil overs? I have heard good things about the ORI shocks but have no experience with them.

I've ran them both before and prefer the ride and performance of a tuned coilover.
ORIs have their place, I ran a set on a 4 cylinder rig for years and had no complaints. They do just fine in slower speed applications IMO.
I don't think I would ever buy a new set again unless I was just completely strapped for room on a rig. Not having to run bump stops and a sway bar does help with packaging.

It's cause he wants to go fast!
 

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