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The Do & Don't of Offroading.....

Rock_Crusher

Well-Known Member
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Here's a thread to better inform other's that may be new to the sport of offroading... now as to better inform others & generally make it known to someone who otherwise might not know, there are basic rules that apply to users / offroaders & the vehicles they use, to explore the area's we like to call - offroad trail system's... better known as ORV parks.

so without a bunch of gibberish, what are some of the things that you can explain to say a new guy, who has just bought a Jeep and wants to go try offroading for his 1st time?

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pictures of offroad rig's doing something the right way vs a wrong way would be of great learning experience as well. say you are out wheeling and are Un-able to Over come a obstacle, what do you do?

the trail has a tree that has fallen across it? do you come prepared w/ saw to cut it and move the obstacle or do you make a new path around tree?

these are some of the questions, that could be answered. not everyone knows the rules or understands what could happen, by just going off the trail onetime... so lets shed some light on the do's & don't's of Offroading.

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rules, regulations, & (Trail) land use - should just about cover it.

pictures showing what proper offroading vs wrong offroading would be great.
say a guy over coming a obstacle using a winch, *(point out) but he's using a tree strap, vs just running cable around the tree... the winch line without a strap will cut through the tree, which will kill the tree.

show, pictures of someone doing a clear & wrong type of thing vs the right way... and maybe everyone will have a good example of the way things are.
 
This is long, but well worth it for the Noob wheeler. so read it!
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Expert advice and a valuable collection of resources on driving offroad, including tips on driving responsibly and skillfully, excursion planning, and troubleshooting.

"There's a lot more to driving off-road than simply putting your rig into 4WD and heading into the wilderness. To do it right requires equal amounts of preparation, patience and technique." —Ann Job

YOU AREN'T FILMING A TV COMMERICAL—Don't get suckered into believing that off roading is like what you see on television commercials— rocks spraying, tires clawing, and eat-it dust rolling in terrain-defying waves behind. That Madison Avenue fantasy is designed to convince you that the featured rig is up to any off-road challenge you care to push it into. It's not. Neither are you. It's hype. —Jack

BE RIGHTEOUS—"Educate yourself by obtaining pertinent area maps and regulations from appropriate public agencies, comply with signs and barriers and ask for owner's permission to cross private property before doing so." —Greg Zduniak

DON'T TEAR UP THE PLACE—Four-wheel drive vehicles and ATV's provide a certain freedom for getting around in the wild country, but for many, the term "offroad" means driving anywhere the vehicle will go. That's bad. Bad for the turf, and bad for future access to that area. The damage to the country side and the disturbance of the wildlife caused by cross-country boonie-bounding leads disgusted land managers and property owners to gate off roads and close afflicted areas to ALL motorized vehicles. If you want to continue to be able to drive into your favorite hunting area or fishing hole or camping meadow, then stay on the roads, stay off the turf and insist others who don't seem to get it do the same.

TREAD LIGHTLY!—Download these excellent guides on responsible off-roading: the Tread Lightly Guide to Responsible 4-Wheeling; Tips for Responsible 4-Wheeling; and Leaving a Good Impression.

THE ATV—The exploding popularity of ATV's (all terrain vehicles or four-wheelers or quads) makes these go-about-anywhere machines a common fixture in the gear roster of many outdoor enthusiasts. Jump over to the TipZone ATV Riding page for tips on riding, troubleshooting and more. Of course, much of the advice and ethical practices associated with full-size vehicle offroading apply to ATVs as well.

BEFORE YOU GO

REFUSE TO SAIL ON THE SHIP OF FOOLS—Heading offroad without taking along emergency supplies and equipment is a fool's drive. It's not like you gotta carry it on your back. Take along some stuff to get yourself unstuck. Take along extra water and food. Something to use for a shelter. Maps of the area you'll be in. And leave a completed Excursion Plan with a reliable individual so the authorities will know where to come looking when you don't get back as scheduled. See the TipZone Survival pages to load up on savvy of what to do when things go wrong.

TROUBLESHOOTING GEAR—On the top of your list for off road get-out-of-trouble gear should be jacks...add a bumper-type jack to go along with the axle jack that comes with your vehicle. Throw in scraps of plywood (2-foot squarish) for stable bases for those jacks to work against in soft, mushy stuff. You'll want a shovel, full sized and long-handled if possible, folding style if nothing else. A tow strap. Short pieces of lumber, 18-inches or so, to serve as ribbing under tires. Strips of carpet a couple feet wide. A come-along or winch with a metal stake for an anchor and 2- to 3-pound hammer to drive it. You'll want a spare tire along and a tire repair kit to fix sidewall and tread punctures. Some kind of air pump to get the repaired tire inflated.
Duct tape and electrical tape for hose repairs. A set of hand tools. Extra water, a few rags, and a tarp that can be rigged for shade when making repairs or used to lay on when working under the vehicle. Hands-free flashlight/area light with fresh batteries. Bailing-type wire to hold things together. Signaling flares. Take a cell-phone along as well—you'd be surprised at where the things can get a signal.
[Download a checklist of this troubleshooting gear in a PDF file format.]

See the TipZone Emergency Kits page for suggestions on assembling the Survival Kit and the First Aid Kit you'll want to have along too.

PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE—This may seem like a no-brainer, but too often, an unplanned stay in the boonies beside a broken-down vehicle could have been avoided with a pre-trip check and replacement of a frayed fan belt or a bulging hose. Know that your vehicle's cooling system, battery, and electrical system need to be up to the task of the hard work of off road driving. And ride off into the sunset only on good, off-road rated tires.

EXTRA FUEL—"Yes, it happens to the best of us, especially if we get lost and have to go 40 more miles than we planned. Carry an extra five-gallon can on the outside of the vehicle." —Dave Ganci (author of Desert Hikingand Arizona Day Hikes: A Guide to the Best Trails from Tucson to the Grand Canyon)

GOING IT ALONE?—"Beginners, as well as seasoned 4 wheelers attempting difficult and/or unfamiliar trails, should always travel at least in pairs of vehicles." —Greg Zduniak

ATLAS AND GAZETTEER BY STATE—These full-color map books by Delorme are indispensable guides for the driver of lonely back roads. Available by state, each map page corresponds to a grid overlaying the state, making it a simple matter to locate the map page for the area you want to know the details of—details like back roads, dirt roads and trails, lakes and streams, boat ramps, public lands, trailheads, campsites, and unique natural features. (Most) atlases include elevation contours.

OFF-ROAD TECHNIQUE

ADVANCE SCOUTING—Never hesitate to stop, get out of your truck and scout the terrain ahead if things look even a little bit dicey. Get a first-hand look at exactly what you'll be getting into, allowing you select the best route through, the right gear for the conditions, and the proper speed. You may even be able to do a little road prepare to take some of the bite out of the bad hole or build a ramp on the approach or off-side of a rock. Sections under water that can't be driven around must be waded so you'll know depth and unseen hazards. Use sticks pushed into the mud to mark the bad spots and indicate the best route. —Jack

SPEED, BAD—"Speed is the worst enemy of the dirt road driver, just as it is of the highway speeder. Most vehicles that get stuck do so because they didn't see the obstacle: mud, sand, tree, rut, high center, drop off, washout, elephant in the road or whatever—didn't see it in time to stop before the encounter." —Dave Ganci

HILL CLIMBING GEAR—"When climbing a hill, use as high a gear as the vehicle will "pull" comfortably. If the gear selected is too low, you will spin the tires. If it is too high, you will not have enough power to climb the hill. (The general rule of thumb is 3rd gear up and 1st gear down with an automatic, 2nd gear up and 1st gear down with a manual, all in Low Range. If this doesn't work, try High Range.) Lock front hubs, and lock differentials (if fitted)." —Jim Walczak

STRAIGHT-UP HILLS—Getting cross-ways on a hill is a ticket to roll to the bottom. Take a hill straight up. If you can't complete the climb, back straight down in low gear—don't try to turn around. Don't take a hill on at an angle. If you don't have a straight-up shot, don't make the attempt.

ROCK BAAWK—"I chicken out early on rocks. My first rock strategy is to avoid them altogether: Life does not have to be hard to be good and rocks are real hard! If there's a track around the obstacle, I will use it. My second strategy is to drive on them. By driving on the rocks, you effectively increase your ground clearance. You've now turned that 10-inch obstacle into 10 inches of added ground clearance. The tough part is cautiously crawling up on the rock and considering fast wheel drop off as you descend. Remember that 10-inch rock is still an obstacle until you're beyond it." —Harry Lewellyn (Lewellyn is the author of Shifting Into 4WD Handbook)

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WHEEL CHEATâ€"Read Harry Lewellyn's discussion of wheel cheat and his suggestions on how to avoid its often dangerous and damaging effects.

FRAGILE UNDERSIDEâ€""Since the underside of your truck has many fragile and vital components (differentials, driveshafts, transmission, transfer case, oil pan, exhaust, gas tank), it's best to drive over an obstacle by placing one tire on it, then gently driving over it, rather than trying to take it down the center. â€" Jim Walczak

EXPLORE THE MYSTERIES BELOWâ€"Scoot under your vehicle and get to know what things look like bottom-side. Fix in your mind the low points that could get hung up or beat up, and the fragile areas like fuel tanks and cabling and hose runs. Tie up any sagging hoses or wiring. Maybe running boards or front air dams need to be removed to avoid being damaged and provide more clearance. Once you know what the layout is underneath your rig, you can chose the most intelligent routes over the rough spots.

4X4 BEFOREâ€""Remember to put your vehicle in 4-wheel drive before you need it, and shift to low range early to reduce the strain on your vehicle. Whenever you are unsure of the surface, select low range." â€"Jim Walczak

OUT OF RUTSâ€""Stay on the top of, not in, the ruts (except in sand, of course; when driving in sand I try to keep the wheels where the sand is best packed from the previous vehicles)." â€"Len Wilcox

DOWN HILLâ€""Another good rule: remember that any hill you go down you may also have to come back up. If you don't think you can come back up it, don't go down unless there is another clear and obvious trail out." â€"Len Wilcox

WACK-A-THUMBâ€"A good way to get your thumbs bruised or broken is to wrap them around the inside of the steering wheel when working a rough roadâ€"courtesy of a sudden, violent change in wheel direction from a rut or rock. Especially a problem with the older rigs without power-assisted steering.

EAT LESS DUSTâ€""My advice is to use your air conditioning 100 percent of the time. It really helps keep the inside of the vehicle clean. The trick lies in selecting the option that recirculates internal air. This is sometimes called RECIRC, MAX or there may be a graphic that shows an arrow inside the vehicle. The recirculate position does what it implies. It recirculates existing, clean, internal air and only brings in about 5 to 15% new, external, dirty air. Air conditioning is designed to deliver air at any temperature. Try MAX with the windows up, at any temperature. It works wonders with regard to staying clean." â€"Harry Lewellyn

IRREGULAR CURVESâ€""Dirt roads usually follow Mother Nature's lay of the land. This leads to irregular curves. Irregular curves mean the radius varies: They may get tighter and tighter, or straighten out faster than expected. That may be the reason we unexpectedly slide out because it ain't exactly what our paved mindset was expectin'." â€"Harry Lewellyn (Lewellyn is the author of Shifting Into 4WD Handbook)

SNOW AND ICEâ€""When driving off-highway in the snow and ice, use common sense. Deep powder can and does hide stumps, rocks, logs and icy patches. Early season snow usually is easier to push through than late season stuff. That is because the late season snow has built from additional snowstorms. It has a hard layer in between the soft snow and presents problems due to this hard layer." â€"Bill Burke

SNOW BASHINGâ€""Be aware of snow packing under the rig. It can literally freeze your engine solid, even if it is running. Snow bashing is hard on the rig. Slow speeds, snow clogged radiator and packed snow around the engine will ruin a tough truck in a minute. Make sure the engine area is cleared out often and pay attention to the transmission/transfer case oil temperatures as well as the diff oil temp. Watch for chunks of ice and hard snow getting caught under the rig and severing brake lines. In creek crossings, watch for ice flow and frozen brakes. Keep the engine running as much as possible when snow 4-wheeling. I have seen a distributor crack due to moisture build-up and freezing when the engine was turned off. Wet fan belts and wet brakes can freeze and will cause damage." â€"Bill Burke

PLOWING A PATHâ€""I sometimes drive forward slowly and set a path [in the snow], then back up. Drive forward some more, then back. Kind of like two steps forward one back type of thing. If you have chains, you may just want to let them churn slowly with slow, steady progress forward. If you're going to run chains, keep the tires inflated to normal highway pressure. DO NOT air down with chains." â€"Bill Burke

CONVOYSâ€""When in a convoy, keep the vehicle ahead of you in sight at all times. If you're the lead vehicle, only drive as fast as the vehicle behind you. If you encounter a problem, flash your lights at the vehicle ahead of you. Each vehicle should relay this signal to the vehicle in front until the lead vehicle pulls over and stops. CB radios are extremely handy for this." â€"Greg Zduniak

EASY DOES ITâ€"The traction you get when rolling on gravel or unimproved dirt roads is a lot poorer than that you have on paving. Allow for it. Take the corners slower, accelerate with a lighter foot, begin slowing for turns and stops and washouts and rough spots and cattle in the road much sooner than normalâ€"less traction means longer stopping distances. Be aware that even on stretches of graveled road that seems to be smooth and well-maintained that you can meet trouble fastâ€"a fallen tree laying around a blind corner or just over a hump in the road, or a stretch of washboard wrinkles pounded into the surface of a wide bend that will kite your clattering backend right off the road.

WHEEL SPINâ€""Avoid lengthy wheelspin; digging into the track only gets you more stuck and ruins the environment. On the other hand, once in a while, you will have to let the tires "dig" a little to help forward momentum. If you feel the vehicle starting to lose traction or forward motion, try backing off the throttle then giving a short "blip" on the throttle. Try this a few times in quick succession. If this fails, back up and get another look at the obstacle and try a different approach. â€"Bill Burke

SPINNING TIRESâ€"Spinouts are never good. If you're spinning your tires on a hard surface, you're got no traction, hence, no control. If you're in the soft stuffâ€"mud, sand, soft soilâ€"and spinning hard, you're digging yourself into trouble. Lose that precious forward momentum and the only place you'll be going is deeper. If you have not choice but to drive in soft, sloppy stuff, gear down and gas it just fast enough to keep moving. A full-on blitzkrieg, spraying a rooster-tail of slop behind you, might get your yee-haw going, but know you're playing a dangerous game, trading the possibility of getting stuck for the possible finality of a crash and roll. â€"Jack (thetipzone.com)

STREAM CROSSINGâ€""Cross streams only at fording areas. If you must cross a stream, do so at existing points and check the depth before you do. If it's higher than your engine's air intake, don't cross since the engine will likely stall. Cross streams at a 90-degree angle to minimize streambed damage. Create a steady 'bow wake' that forms an air pocket around the engine bay and away from the tires if water is bumper height." â€"Nick Hromiak

TROUBLE SHOOTING

EMERGENCY TIRE REPAIRâ€""One of the most valuable emergency kits [to have along] is a puncture repair kitâ€"especially when you plan on leaving pavement. Even the strongest tires fail sometimesâ€"remember, I recommend getting LT rated tires when you plan to drive beyond pavement more than twice a year. The kit [should consist] of extremely sticky self sealing strips, vulcanizer, one tool to enlarge very small holes (cactus punctures) and a second tool that is used to stuff the plugging strip into the hole. I personally do not like 'spare tires in a can'. They will only seal punctures in the tread area and leave sidewalls untreated. Unlike the self sealing strips (which create a semi permanent fix), the stuff in the can needs to be removed as soon as possible (it creates severe tire imbalances). By the way, tire shops hate that gunk in the tire. â€"Harald Pietschmann (4X4ABC.com)

MILEAGE CHECKSâ€"Note the odometer readings when you 1) leave the nearest town to the off-road departure point, AND 2) when you leave the paved surface. If you need to call in help, you'll know where you are (provided you haven't been driving around lost for hours). â€"Michael Waite

JACK ITâ€""Find an appropriate rock and place it just in front or back of the flat tire. As small as double-fist-size will do. Now, drive up on it. It won’t hurt the flat! You’re only going to move a foot or two! Actually, I pretty much make this a standard practice for all flats. It’s now easier to place the jack under the 4X and requires less jacking to get the flat completely off the ground!" â€"Harry Lewellyn (Lewellyn is the author of Shifting Into 4WD Handbook)

DIG SMARTâ€""Be advised that if stuck in the middle of July, you can lose a lot of water if you have to dig a vehicle out in 110-degree heat. It's okay as long as you have plenty of water. If you don't, you had better wait until sundown." â€"Dave Ganci (author of Desert Hikingand Arizona Day Hikes: A Guide to the Best Trails from Tucson to the Grand Canyon)

RECOVERY STRAPâ€""NEVER wrap a strap or other recovery tool around the stock bumper, steering components, springs, spring hangers, or axles. Only use a frame-mounted tow hook, or use a short sling and tuck it up around the frame, avoiding wires and hoses. Then connect it to the recovery strap with an adequate "D" shackle. The other vehicle can then yank you out. The strap absorbs the impact, allowing the yank motion."
 
FREE PARTS are not found on trails don't pull parts from other rigs you find!

most of the time someone is coming back for it!

never ever spin your wheels, digging holes and ruts on private land, you are thanking their kindness by giving them the the chore of filling that back up,
how long would you put up with that?

unless you are in a designated OFF ROAD PARK,
if you have seen a building, shack or house in the last mile or 3 your likely on private land. respect it as their home, it could be. don't assume based on your standards its not! I've seen a "house" built out of shipping pallets, seriously.

Bob
 
EAT LESS DUSTâ€""My advice is to use your air conditioning 100 percent of the time. It really helps keep the inside of the vehicle clean. The trick lies in selecting the option that recirculates internal air. This is sometimes called RECIRC, MAX or there may be a graphic that shows an arrow inside the vehicle. The recirculate position does what it implies. It recirculates existing, clean, internal air and only brings in about 5 to 15% new, external, dirty air. Air conditioning is designed to deliver air at any temperature. Try MAX with the windows up, at any temperature. It works wonders with regard to staying clean." â€"Harry Lewellyn


^^
I'm gonna have to disagree with you on this one. That's a good way to overheat your engine while on the trail.
 
KarlVP said:
EAT LESS DUST—"My advice is to use your air conditioning 100 percent of the time. It really helps keep the inside of the vehicle clean. The trick lies in selecting the option that recirculates internal air. This is sometimes called RECIRC, MAX or there may be a graphic that shows an arrow inside the vehicle. The recirculate position does what it implies. It recirculates existing, clean, internal air and only brings in about 5 to 15% new, external, dirty air. Air conditioning is designed to deliver air at any temperature. Try MAX with the windows up, at any temperature. It works wonders with regard to staying clean." —Harry Lewellyn


^^
I'm gonna have to disagree with you on this one. That's a good way to overheat your engine while on the trail.

your rig should be able to sit idle at any outside temp, and run all acessories or and ac too! maybe you have a issue, humm. and, the idea is good, but... doesn't do much good when most do not have a top anyhow. :D
 
this is a good thread. i thought i'd add my .02 in here, fwiw.

i tend to like long range trips, so some of the below items might not be applicable. But, on the other hand, as others are mentioning a small trip can always turn out to be a big one if things go wrong.

As i was relaying to my 5 year old the other day, while high-centered in snow at 4,000ft (stupid skid plate) always follow these rules for back country survival

1) go prepared
2) stay calm
3) use your head
4) keep a positive attitude, don't let small setbacks deter you! make a plan and execute.

maybe it's too simple, but I feel this is worth stating very clearly, especially for noobies.

onto my rant / advice -


rollovers, sliding off the trail, etc: it might look cool in pics of buggies wallowing around on their sides but rest assured, its no fun in a stock or even modified full-bodied rig and could hurt or kill someone if the vehicle doesn't have a cage.

get a lev-o meter in your rig, and get comfortable with what it can handle in a controlled environment.

don't be afraid to ask someone to tie off the B-pillar or a part of the cage to avoid a flop, or worse a barrell roll down a hill. if in doubt, go slower and tie off. how many rigs have been winched up out of the creek here lately? how many of those could have been avoided by using a little more noggin' and a little less throttle?


carry enough tools to get the job done: a winch is a good start, but it hardly constitutes a complete recovery setup. i tell n00b's to get the winch last and get the essentials first. winches are good for a straight-forward stuck. unfortunatley, those are few and far between! more often than not, something is broken, a rock is in a bad place, you're on a hill, or may even have 2 or more tires that decided to pop off a bead and make your rig lean in the wrong (scary) direction. sometimes, all of the above can be checked off. go prepared!

So, in addition to a high-lift, consider addint these items to your kit if you don't have them already:

  • a shovel (even an "e-tool", aka trifold will work, and is compact)
  • tree saw and/or axe
  • extra d-shackles
  • d-rings
  • 25ft or 50ft winch extension rope
  • tree strap; having 2 doesn't hurt
  • kinetic strap
  • a winch pulley if so equipped.
  • 2 or more FRS radios or a hand-held CB
  • large spotlight, small flashlights. LED's are lookin' sharp these days
  • leather gloves. carry extras for helpers
  • headlamp. indispensible for rigging in the dark. keep your hands free
  • a couple short lengths of grade 70 chain with clevis hooks
  • winch line weight. a spare tire can be used for this if steel cable is being used on the winch line and under severe load/conditions
  • a hand winch!
  • basic tool set.
  • ratchet straps to hold things together if need be
  • good first aid kit
  • extra food and water

There are two brands of hand winches out there that are rated for dead-lifting. I would avoid come-alongs - the safety factor on come-alongs is not good compared to the two below, and quality can be spotty between manufacturers.

Tirfor (marketed as Griphoist in the US) is one, Wyeth-Scott makes the other, aptly named the "More Power Puller". The MPP costs alot less than the Tirfor, and can be a great addition to your recovery kit where you might need to stablize a vehicle from the rear or side while winching forward, to keep from sliding off the trail, down an embankment, or worse, off a cliff.

Tirfor:
Tirfor1.jpg


more power puller: a solid $100 investment.
cspoutdoors_1899_17992710


Pacific Industrial in Seattle is a great place to pick up extra D-shackles and winch hooks. buyer beware, not everything in the bins is rated for working load limit ... pass on it if it's not. I've seen Tirfor winches in there as well, if they look like something you're interested in carrying.

You can buy Samson brand synthetic ropes at many of the industrial marine stores. I bought mine in Magnolia. The steel eyelets and rope splicing were top notch - their customers lives depend on it! I was impressed with the results, and the price was fair.

a note on water - it's not a bad idea to get a couple jerry can mounts on your rig, and carry extra fuel and a jerry-can for water. i don't know about you, but redbull, a small container of gatoraid and maybe a victory end-of-trail beer usually win-out for trail fluids when I pack up for a day of wheelin'. If something goes wrong and you have to set to work, it's nice to know that you always have 20liters of fresh water on supply. Even in snow you can deyhdrate very quickly. With the adrenline pumping don't let it catch up to you - if you feel the least bit thirsty then drink some water, catch your breath and take a second to double-think your work strategy to make sure you're making progress in a safe manner.

tips on technique:

hooks!! whenever a hook is involved under load, situate the hook throat down. this means that the opening of the hook is facing the ground. this way if the hook fails, it will send the shock down and not up. whenever possible, source hooks that include a safety clasp over the throat of the hook.

DSC05005_.jpg



if you do find yourself needing to secure the side of the vehicle to avoid a roll-over, there are a few things to keep in mind.

treat the rope or wire-rope securing the side just like a winch line under load. it very well may end up supporting the weight of the vehicle depending on the situation.

do not cut corners on rigging - rig it up just as you would a winch line.

if anchoring the side off to a fixed point, keep in mind that the vehicle will want to move in a radius. you need a way to let the line out and allow the rig to take up the slack as forward progress is made to avoid rerigging every few feet. the hand-winch comes into play here as a great tool for this purpose. trying to use a hi-lift is not nearly as effective or easy to handle, but can be done if used with extreme caution, and the rigging on the tongue of the high-lift is made secure.

use a tree strap to find a good anchor point and place the hand-winch near the anchor with a d-ring or shackle. do not wrap the cable around any part of the vehicle and try securing it with the hook! either use another short strap and connect the ends to the hook with a d-shackle, or barring that, use a chain and choke the chain to the required length with the correct style hook for the chain's size. connect the end of the chain then to your tether.

allow a couple feet of slack in the line and let the driver drive the rig forward, or winch forward depending on the situation. if a roll-over is immenent, winching forward, even downhill (btdt) is preferable as it is more controlled. as slack is taken up, radio to the driver or winch-operator to stop, and then let a few more feet of slack out on the line.

coordinating a recovery is much easier if you can can communicate clearly between participants. FRS radios or a hand-held CB are great for this purpose. you can't always see hand-signals through tree-cover or in the dark, and they are prone to being misinterpreted.

suppliers - as mentioned above, Pacific Industrial is a good place to kick around. For online vending, ExpeditionExchange.com is among the most complete, carrying all of the items listed above and a whole lot more. the owners are knife and gun freaks as well, which will probably appeal to many of you ;) check 'em out.

keep organized! i'm the worst at this and I pay almost every time i run into trouble :mad: for toolbags and emergency camping stuff, Federal Army Surplus is a good source. they sell some sweet first-aid tri-folds and have heavy duty canvas tool bags. a couple MRE's and one of those small Esbit solid-fuel stoves are good to keep in the rig at all times for your work-food supply.

visit them downtown, or navigate over to http://www.gr8gear.com/

$11
jumbo%20tool%20bag%20bk.jpg


$4 - esbit stove, good for heating up an MRE
esbit.jpg



hope someone finds this useful

cheers
-isaac
 
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Join a club or organization where you get to know the people personally..

to Quote Jim (pokey);

would you feel comfortable going wheeling and breaking down with a group of strangers you met on the web? How about if you broke something and had to have someone go to your house with your keys and go into your shop to get parts or tools and then bring them back to you? How about sending your kids out so they dont have to spend the night in the woods while its raining and cold? Would you count on them to haul your broken rig home on their trailer while you drive theirs back or wait for them to come back to get you?

I would with any of my club members. <END quote>



Or like in the case of our club, when something happens and you do get hurt, Can you depend on them to get your rig, your tow rig and whatever back home safe and sound without any worries, so that you can concentrate on yourself?



 
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when you buy a new (4wd) rig... take some time to become familiar w/ it. maybe buy a user manual / mechanical book or as stated above, join a club that tends to have or/and use the same vehicles as you do...

many times people get in over their heads, because they are uniformed or just plain have no clue/idea of what they have or how to fix it or drive it.
it only takes a small investment of your time to learn some basic how-to's.

same goes for the places you intend to go play around at, learn something about the area & surroundings of the area... i.e. hospital / auto parts store?
nearest place for help or rescue - emergency phone numbers to police,etc.

simple & very helpful in time of need...:cool:
 
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Trail Ratings & what they generally mean...

Trail difficulty #'s & what they mean...

0.0 Highways: These are paved roads suitable for everyday traffic.


0.5 Back Roads: These are paved roads that may have filled or unfilled potholes. Typical paved county roads.


1.0 Maintained Dirt Roads: These roads are graded or maintained year round. Typical non-paved county roads.


1.5 Semi-Maintained Dirt Roads: These roads are occasionally graded or maintained. They may cross sandy washes and sections may be rough (washboards).


2.0 Easy 2WD/4WD: Features trails with obstacles that are easy to navigate. In optimum weather conditions, these trails may not require the continual use of four-wheel drive (4WD).


2.5 Easy 4WD: Moderately demanding trails on which 4WD will be required. You may encounter a wide variety of challenges (Potholes, minor washouts, medium size rocks, and mud holes) on these trails. Higher ground clearance and Off-Road tires are recommended.


3.0 Standard 4WD trail: Demanding trails on which 4WD is required. You will encounter a variety of more difficult challenges (loose rocks, large potholes, steep inclines, and large rocks) on these trails. Possible with stock 4WD vehicle, however, recommend traction device (limited slip) in rear differential, aggressive tread and low air pressure. Higher than stock ground clearance is advisable. Low range gears used often. Moderate experience and driving skill advised. Likely paint damage, possible rocker-panel damage.


3.5 Challenging 4WD trail: Challenging trails on which low range 4WD is required. You will encounter a variety of more difficult challenges (loose rocks, large potholes, steep inclines, and large rocks) on these trails. Not recommended with stock 4WD vehicle. Traction device (limited slip) in rear differential, aggressive tread and low air pressure highly recommended. Higher than stock ground clearance is advisable. Moderate experience and driving skill advised. Likely paint damage, possible rocker-panel damage.


4.0 Difficult trail: These trails traverse very rugged terrain; low-range 4WD is required. Higher than stock ground clearance is required. Aggressive tread and low air pressure are required. Traction Devices (Lockers or limited-slip) in the differentials (front and rear), lift, and larger tires are highly recommended. These trails require above average Off-Road driving skills. High-Lift jacks and winches would also be helpful. There will likely be paint damage and possible vehicle body and/or mechanical damage.


4.5 Extreme trail: These trails cross extremely rugged terrain with very steep inclines, large boulders, and potentially dangerous situations. These trails require modified vehicles, including lift, lockers, and over-sized tires. A High level of Off-Road driving skill is required. There will likely be paint damage, possible vehicle body and/or mechanical damage. There are possibilities of rollovers. Winches are recommended.


5.0 Impassable trail: These trails are for the extreme four-wheeler only. These trails require highly modified vehicles, including lift, excellent articulation, lockers front and rear, large tires with aggressive tread, winches, high lift jacks. A High level of Off-Road driving skill is required. Paint damage is virtually guaranteed, body and/or mechanical damage is very likely. Rollovers will be more common on these trails and a winch will be used on at least one obstacle.
 
one I would like to add

Don't ever leave a fellow wheeler behind if they break down, even if you don't know them.

I have helped out plenty I have never seen again.
 
iceman said:
actually it's a good idea to bring extra trash bags....and if you see some trash just pick it up.....not hard to do..:;


Yeah, Hip has a big burlap sack that he hangs off the back of his Jeep for trash. It usually gets filled by the end of the day.
 
clean you rig when you get home !
it may look cool to have mud all over your rig but i had a
mud coverd rig pass me today on Pacific in Tacoma and was droppping
dirt & rocks all over the place. took a few off my windshield too.
we all get a bad name cuz a few guys want to waive their "i've been wheeling" flag on the street. plus you can get a pertty healthy ticket for
obscured windows & plates.
 
Dirtball said:
clean you rig when you get home !
it may look cool to have mud all over your rig but i had a
mud coverd rig pass me today on Pacific in Tacoma and was droppping
dirt & rocks all over the place. took a few off my windshield too.
we all get a bad name cuz a few guys want to waive their "i've been wheeling" flag on the street. plus you can get a pertty healthy ticket for
obscured windows & plates.

Not to mention that the forest service likes to blame us for the spread of noxious weeds from the mud we spread from one area to the next:mad:
 
pokey said:
Not to mention that the forest service likes to blame us for the spread of noxious weeds from the mud we spread from one area to the next:mad:

ok, i'll go along w/ this... and to add to insult...

the CarWash owners, don't like us Offroaders too much either... so, figure out a way to brush off most of the excess / chunky mud - BEFORE - going into one of the coin-up carwash's...

I spent years doing water/mud stuff... and finally got sick & tired of it all.
so much clean up afterwords... changing fluids... re-packing bearings...
figuring out how to get the mud out of the inside & litterally giving up.

not to mention, where ever you are getting muddy at? others tend to look at us as - The people who just tore something up w/ our rig covered in mud.
so, it's a win - win... for me...
 
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