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Toy G52 Tranny troubles

2slow4you

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
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Over the past couple months my 85 toyota 5speed trans has been acting up. I'm wondering if this could be a slave problem if its just going out.

Simptums- while coming to a stop, it can be shifted down into 1st, 2nd... without any problems, but sometimes if im to come to a stop in Neutral and then try and shift into 1st it is hard.

As of really late I've become locked out of the all gears at a stop and forcefully shifting into 2nd is the only way to get going.

Shifting for 3rd to 4th is becoming notchier and more cumbersome, also.

Is it toast? time for a w56? I thought about getting a new shifter seat/socket from MC, but if its not the problem then i wont bother.
 
Its either the clutch/slave/master or an internal trans issue(main or countershaft bearings). Its not the shfter..
 
Well the master and clutch are bran new, so maybe its time to get a new slave.. :booo:
i agree, its a hydraulic issue.
how NEW is the master? and from where?
they should be changed in pairs.....

shcucks/autozone, and any other CHEAP place..theyre JUNK. and wont last.
i went though 5 in a VERY short time, before i just went to the dealer.
 
If you can pull up to a stop sign in gear and everything is fine leaving teh stop sign, ie no notchiness etc but you can't pull up in neutral and get it into gear survey says you need a new pilot bearing.... Sounds like it's going bad and holding the input shaft to keep it spinning rather than slowing/stopping...
 
i agree, its a hydraulic issue.
how NEW is the master? and from where?
they should be changed in pairs.....

shcucks/autozone, and any other CHEAP place..theyre JUNK. and wont last.
i went though 5 in a VERY short time, before i just went to the dealer.

MC/CC are from Toyota of Puyallup and is about 7 months old.

If you can pull up to a stop sign in gear and everything is fine leaving teh stop sign, ie no notchiness etc but you can't pull up in neutral and get it into gear survey says you need a new pilot bearing.... Sounds like it's going bad and holding the input shaft to keep it spinning rather than slowing/stopping...

That makes sense I have been hearing some noise when letting out the clutch in Nuetral (throwout bearing), so a pilot wouldn't be too far behind.. I've never had this prob. At least in Honda's the pilot could be making a raquet and nothing would go wrong. Well thats good news, I'd rather throw a clutch/pilot/throwout bearing/slave cyl in there then have to swap in a new one or have it rebuilt.
 
I found that problem when I was replacing a clutch for a guy... The clutch had under 1k on it but the HACK shop not only didn't replace the bearing but they nailed it with the input shaft when putting the trans back in. :rolleyes:

I pulled it apart and told the dude to take his clutch kit back and buy a $6 bearing but he opted to replace it anyway..... So I got a spare 89+ clutch. :D
 
I found that problem when I was replacing a clutch for a guy... The clutch had under 1k on it but the HACK shop not only didn't replace the bearing but they nailed it with the input shaft when putting the trans back in. :rolleyes:

I pulled it apart and told the dude to take his clutch kit back and buy a $6 bearing but he opted to replace it anyway..... So I got a spare 89+ clutch. :D

The input shaft was still ok right? I'm just hoping that I won't wont be blessed with a bad shaft when i open the damn thing up. :mad:

I'm calling Marlin tomorrow with my order since this is my DD and it can only be down a day. Clutch kit, new slave and another clutch cyl should do the trick, anything else i should look into other then resurfacing the flywheel?
 
Well he carries flywheels too but I'd imagine shipping would blow goats... What clutch are you going with, 1200 or 1600? I've heard nothing but good on both but I have the 1600 andi love it, not enough difference between the pressure for the stocker and the 1600lb either.


Oh and yea, the input was just fine. It was always spinning with the bearing so there was no damage to it.
 
Well he carries flywheels too but I'd imagine shipping would blow goats... What clutch are you going with, 1200 or 1600? I've heard nothing but good on both but I have the 1600 andi love it, not enough difference between the pressure for the stocker and the 1600lb either.


Oh and yea, the input was just fine. It was always spinning with the bearing so there was no damage to it.

I was thinking the 1200 since its a DD rig, but if you say the 1600 isn't all that bad i wouldn't mind getting some extra clamping force. Do you use your 1600 in stop and go traffic...? :D
 
I use my 1600 in stop and go trail running... :D But it feels fine to me, although I am used to pushing a pedal connected to a 15" clutch.... :haha:
 
If it's a hydrolic issue you will feel the truck trying to roll forward when you "force" it into gear. If the disk isnt releasing the syncros will be working overtime and will actually move the truck.

On a side note I had an 89 V-6 2wd that displayed very similar problems. It would shift kinda ok while in motion but at a stop it was very difficult to get into gear. When I did the "roll test" it didn't move while forcing it into gear.

It turned out to be a bad (almost non-existant) shifter cup bushing and the other shift rail bushing was toast as well. It was warn so bad it just about fell off the little ball at the end of the shift rod.

Fixed it and it worked great.

Well i'll cover all of my bases then, Im going to get a new 1200 clutch kit since this needs to be DD friendly, shifter seat/cup, slave and clutch cylinders, and even some new pressure plate bolts... :D lol If these don't fix it then it's time to find a W56 on CL. But i have a good feeling its the Pilot bearing, now that i listen i can hear a pulsating woooshing sound while on the freeway, leading me to believe that the balls in the bearing are toast. Lets hope! :booo:
 
If the pilot bearing is basically seized to the input shaft the trans can't slow down its rotation when you push in the clutch... Which leads me to the issue with no go at stop sign's etc.....
 
yes to the above. it will continue to spin the main shaft...as if the clutch was engaged.

i had one(customers) weld itself solid. and had to PRY the engine/trans apart...then all the needles came tumbling out.:mad:


OP, when you release the clutch, at what point in the travel, does the truck start to drive? about halfway up? or RIGHT on the bottom, on the carpet?
 
yes to the above. it will continue to spin the main shaft...as if the clutch was engaged.

i had one(customers) weld itself solid. and had to PRY the engine/trans apart...then all the needles came tumbling out.:mad:


OP, when you release the clutch, at what point in the travel, does the truck start to drive? about halfway up? or RIGHT on the bottom, on the carpet?

Around 1/4-1/2 way up it begins to catch.
 
probably the pilot bearing then....

Parts have been ordered. I won't get them untill middle-end of next week but im ripping the tranny out on Sunday, just in case I need something else. Like a rear main seal.. :awesomework:
 
i beleive that is the same tranny ihave sitting in the shop i am trying to get rid of if you need it you can have it for 120
 
OP, when you release the clutch, at what point in the travel, does the truck start to drive? about halfway up? or RIGHT on the bottom, on the carpet?


Try turning the engine OFF at a stop, then see if you can find gears. If so, you either have a pilot bearing issue (seized bearing) or a hydraulics issue because your clutch isn't releasing.

When you changed your clutch, did you replace the bearing?

In any case, diddle with the hydraulics first, because it's easier than taking out a trans.

What brand master did you install? I always recommend Aisin parts which are OEM Toyota. Should cost around $30. Anything else is a waste of money. Also, best to do clutch master/slave combo at the same time.
 
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