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Toyota coilovers

Jonesn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2012
Messages
72
Location
Piner, KY
After a weekend at the Badlands and wheeling with a couple guys on coilovers I've decided to make the switch. The air shocks on the truck right now are used and abused, so instead of rebuilding I'm upgrading.

This thread is primarily an info dump of measurements and links that I found useful in doing my homework for selecting coilovers and coils. I know this subject has been beat to death, and there are dozens of different opinions.

My truggy specs
Full tube chassis with toyota cab
22re/w56/dual stock cases
toyota axles f/r
3 link front
4 link rear
center limit strap in front / suck down winch in rear
16" fox 2.0 air shocks (well used)



Weighed the components of a front axle to get a total unsprung weight

Bare factory (1985) housing 52 lbs
3rd member - 4.10 gears 48.2 lbs
Knuckle assembly 45.2 lbs x2
Caliper 11.6 lbs x2
Steering arms 16.6 lbs
Single ended hydraulic ram 16.2 lbs
Axle shafts 29 lbs
Total axle assembly 275.6 lbs

37" tsl on diy steel beadlock 105 lbs x2

Total front unsprung weight 485.6 lbs
 
Picture of the truggy for reference/whoring purposes

10251989_10100563006203360_9084606581834695582_n.jpg
 
TBItoy said:
UNsprung weight doesn't really have much to do with coilovers... ???

I've been doing way to much reading.....If you set up the suspension based on suspension frequency the sprung vs unsprung weight plays a role in selection of springs. Even for setting up purely for ride height once a corner weight is found (via corner scales) you should subtract the unsprung mass since it will not be supported by the springs...or am I looking at that wrong?

Probably way over thinking this like usual.
 
Jonesn said:
I've been doing way to much reading.....If you set up the suspension based on suspension frequency the sprung vs unsprung weight plays a role in selection of springs. Even for setting up purely for ride height once a corner weight is found (via corner scales) you should subtract the unsprung mass since it will not be supported by the springs...or am I looking at that wrong?

Probably way over thinking this like usual.

Nah, you got it.

I wasn't thinking about subtracting unsprung weight to get your sprung weigt. :p


I wouldn't think frequency would be very important unless you are trying to haul ass across miles of whoops in the desert
 
TBItoy said:
I wouldn't think frequency would be very important unless you are trying to haul ass across miles of whoops in the desert

Me either. Main points needed for crawling would be more like, as long as the ride height is there, it's stable, and rides good, it should be plenty good enough.

Sounds like you're reading way too much into things, you aren't setting up a U4 car
 
Re:

I just went through this on my rig. Rear is 4 linked on 16" 2.5 air shocks and front was leaf sprung and sucked bawls. Now front is 4 linked and on 14" 2.0 Fox coilovers. I have practically the same truck engine tranny and t-case setup as you with an exo cage plus winch, so we should be about the same weight up front. My springrates started at 100 over 200 and the 100 was too light, had to step up to a 150 top spring and it works well now with the 150/200 setup. Give or take a little on your personal preferences, but you should end up close to those spring rates. Mine rides super good now and is stable, proper ride height without a ****-ton of preload. Lower 200# spring is a 16" and top 150# spring is a 14".

apy4y6ap.jpg


6utava7a.jpg
 
Re:

TacomaJD said:
I just went through this on my rig. Rear is 4 linked on 16" 2.5 air shocks and front was leaf sprung and sucked bawls. Now front is 4 linked and on 14" 2.0 Fox coilovers. I have practically the same truck engine tranny and t-case setup as you with an exo cage plus winch, so we should be about the same weight up front. My springrates started at 100 over 200 and the 100 was too light, had to step up to a 150 top spring and it works well now with the 150/200 setup. Give or take a little on your personal preferences, but you should end up close to those spring rates. Mine rides super good now and is stable, proper ride height without a ****-ton of preload. Lower 200# spring is a 16" and top 150# spring is a 14".

How much chrome do you have showing on your 14's? You running bumpstops of any kind?

What is the purpose of running the taller main coil? I've seen this all over the place with no real explanation of why it is done? Ability to run a lighter spring and still get desired ride height, or is it to keep the coils seated instead of using a 3rd tender coil?

As of right now I was thinking 150/250 (14" coils) for the front and 100/150 (14" coils) for the rear.
 
Re:

Jonesn said:
How much chrome do you have showing on your 14's? You running bumpstops of any kind?

What is the purpose of running the taller main coil? I've seen this all over the place with no real explanation of why it is done? Ability to run a lighter spring and still get desired ride height, or is it to keep the coils seated instead of using a 3rd tender coil?

As of right now I was thinking 150/250 (14" coils) for the front and 100/150 (14" coils) for the rear.

You may be alright with those combos. And yes, those reasons you listed are about the only logic I can see behind the 2" longer lower spring.

There is about 6", maybe more showing at ride height. I have fixed bump stops. Will try to post more pics after while (I'm at work).
 
Re: Re: Toyota coilovers

This was while I was swapping springs. I don't have any pics really showing how much shaft is showing. I will take some and upload them though.

e8y7ata2.jpg


I have it raised all the way up with an engine hoist here
qaze3e5e.jpg


This is about how it looks now. This is when I first got it back from the fab shop. He had the dual rate slider stop ran all the way down so it was only riding on the 200# lower spring (top spring was too soft to obtain ride height). You may be alright with 250, I just know that from riding on the 200# spring only for a day, that bitch was stiff! Now with the 150/200, it does very well with ride height and soft, yet stable transition through it's travel.
y6y7a6ub.jpg


Another one from when it was sitting on 200# spring only.
yvy5e6aq.jpg


ujuve2u5.jpg
 
The longer coils on the lower keeps the cup from getting caught up on the shock body at full drop out, they need to be 2" longer that shock length( 14" shock needs 16" springs)
 
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