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Toyota crossmember

rover18

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
95
Location
Edgewood, WA
I read the section in Pirate on crossmembers, but I still can't decide and have some questions. I want to do a flet belly, but everything I see has poly mounts. Anybody do a flat belly with some rubber bushings that didn't break anything? Or do I need to do solid mounts all the way through the drivetrain? I'd like to have as minimal vibes as possible. Thanks!
 
Bud Built

Bud Built has a replacement one that works very nicely with the factory mount. By direct or through a distributor. Adds 3 inches of ground clearance. =-) hard to bet that! Even has a T-case skid option. If you have a second t-case, you have the same options as well... So it is a win win deal.

=-):D
 
Okay cool. Thanks. I'm going to either do the bud built, FROR 10* clocked mount and skid or FROR center plate and build off of that. Any opinions on the FROR? That is where I would be most concerned about breaking anything.
 
Before you get too far with this have you mearured how much you will need to raise the t-case to get a true flat belly. I used a R10 adapter from Marlin and still have the case hangingn down. I built my own crossmember too, which helped a little. But then you run into front drive line angle problems. My truck sits fairly low and if the t-case was any more rotated or say front output higher I'd have to limit my suspension droop to keep the front CV from binding. Anyway there is lots to consider, and keep stuff "rubber mounted". I like the FROR idea to keep everything mounted higher.
 
Cuz ground clearance is so much cooler than RELIABILITY. :rolleyes:







You only run into a spot once in a while that some extra ground clearance could help a little. Most times a smooth stock location crossmember will slide over things just fine. Mine never hold me back.


BUT shitty driveline angles SUCK all day, on every trail, and can cost you a day wheeling if one fails.


No wrenches required to winch off of a stump if turtled.


Your wasting your time with a buttload or work for backwards gains. Thats just me tho.
 
Sky Manufacturing makes a pretty nice crossmember/skidplate. It can be mounted in the factory position or on top of the frame rails to flat belly the rig. Don't short cut it by putting a body lift on it though, cut the floor and make a tunnel if you do it. It is more work, but worth it.
 
We would just run the Bud Built stock location cross member. It gives you 3 more inches of clearance, but does not mess with anything else. Drive line angle IS important!

That's our input... :D
 
Cuz ground clearance is so much cooler than RELIABILITY. :rolleyes:







You only run into a spot once in a while that some extra ground clearance could help a little. Most times a smooth stock location crossmember will slide over things just fine. Mine never hold me back.


BUT shitty driveline angles SUCK all day, on every trail, and can cost you a day wheeling if one fails.


No wrenches required to winch off of a stump if turtled.


Your wasting your time with a buttload or work for backwards gains. Thats just me tho.


This:awesomework:
 
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