Toyota electric locker diagram

[Robinhood]

I am looking a diagram for a toy e-locker I have the one from all data but I need one that has wire colors or pin locations any help would be great

 

[rockabilly]

http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/locker/

 

[Robinhood]

thanks that is perfect

 

[Dain Bramage]

cool. looks like a little more work than i initially thought. well, good luck, john!

 

[skrause]

Are you using the stock ECU or making your own?

 

[Dain Bramage]

well, i didnt get a 4 runner ECU, if thats what you mean.

 

[skrause]

well, i didnt get a 4 runner ECU, if thats what you mean.

Ok, nevermind then. Just had some suggestions for wiring it if you did. I'm running two of them.

 

[Dain Bramage]

so reading that thing, does that mean that i HAVE to get a momentary switch? cause i just got a on/off LED toggle switch. will that not work?

 

[CrustyJeep]

so reading that thing, does that mean that i HAVE to get a momentary switch? cause i just got a on/off LED toggle switch. will that not work?

Looks to me like you'd want a normal on/on switch. That would make it appear to be "off" when the switch is down, and "on" (locked) when the switch is up. I would put the whole circuit on an ignition feed.

An on/off switch won't work because the locker works like a power window; it takes power to lock it AND to unlock it.

Fairly simple really.

The two status circuits appear to be frivolous over complication.

 

[Dain Bramage]

Looks to me like you'd want a normal on/on switch. That would make it appear to be "off" when the switch is down, and "on" (locked) when the switch is up. I would put the whole circuit on an ignition feed.

An on/off switch won't work because the locker works like a power window; it takes power to lock it AND to unlock it.

Fairly simple really.

The two status circuits appear to be frivolous over complication.

so do you mean that i should get an on/off/on momentary switch? cause from what your saying, if i use a on/off switch, when its on, it will constantly be applying power to the locking mechanism, and wont be able to unlock it in the off position, it will just stop supplying power.

bear with me, i suck at electronics.

 

[Dain Bramage]

also, how much water should i run in my tires?:stirpot:

 

[CrustyJeep]

so do you mean that i should get an on/off/on momentary switch? cause from what your saying, if i use a on/off switch, when its on, it will constantly be applying power to the locking mechanism, and wont be able to unlock it in the off position, it will just stop supplying power.

No, an on/on switch. It acts like a on/off (two positions), but both positions close a circuit. So, with it up, the lock circuit closes, and with it down, the unlock circuit closes. These are not momentary, BTW.

The reason you don't need a momentary, is that the locker has switches internally that disable the actuator when it reaches its extremes; one for locked, one for unlocked. The diagram shows how to wire them. When the locker locks, the lock circuit is disabled, no matter what your lock/unlock switch on dash is doing.

With a momentary switch, you'd have to sit and hold the switch until the locker engaged/disengaged fully. That would be gay. I have recently been elected the local authority on gayness, so you'll have to take my word for it :flipoff:

bear with me, i suck at electronics.

This is electrical, not electronics :flipoff:

 

[Dain Bramage]

I have recently been elected the local authority on gayness, so you'll have to take my word for it

so i heard.

The reason you don't need a momentary, is that the locker has switches internally that disable the actuator when it reaches its extremes; one for locked, one for unlocked. The diagram shows how to wire them. When the locker locks, the lock circuit is disabled, no matter what your lock/unlock switch on dash is doing.

ok, i get it now.

 

[Dain Bramage]

how about that water question?:flipoff: :stirpot:

 

[skrause]

The reason you don't need a momentary, is that the locker has switches internally that disable the actuator when it reaches its extremes; one for locked, one for unlocked. The diagram shows how to wire them. When the locker locks, the lock circuit is disabled, no matter what your lock/unlock switch on dash is doing.

Wrong. The actuator has internal "switches", more accurately position sensors, that tell the ECU when to stop. It's just some people have decided to use these for a purpose they were not intended with mixed success. It seems these same people are the ones who complain about the e-lockers getting jammed or not being reliable. Go fig. :haha:

 

[CrustyJeep]

Wrong. The actuator has internal "switches", more accurately position sensors, that tell the ECU when to stop. It's just some people have decided to use these for a purpose they were not intended with mixed success. It seems these same people are the ones who complain about the e-lockers getting jammed or not being reliable. Go fig. :haha:

You telling me the diagram is wrong?

 

[skrause]

You telling me the diagram is wrong?

I'm telling you people running Toy e-lockers without the factory controller ECU are wrong. :flipoff:

 

[CrustyJeep]

I'm telling you people running Toy e-lockers without the factory controller ECU are wrong. :flipoff:

Maybe they are wiring neophytes who couldn't wire up a light bulb :flipoff:

 

[skrause]

Maybe they are wiring neophytes who couldn't wire up a light bulb :flipoff:

I have yet to try hooking one up to an oscilloscope, but I'm pretty sure they are a pulsed power supply to get the motor moving more reliably as well as a braking circuit to stop the motor from overrunning and jamming the mechanism up hard.

Most complaints about the elockers are jamming and the motor not starting if the armature stops in the right position.

 

[rockabilly]

thanks that is perfect

no problem