Toyota ring gear strength

Alpine4x4 · Feb 18, 2008

OK so im planning a build up for a 3rd gen pickup. Plans for the fron include bobby's 30 spline longs, his chromo hubs, ARB locker, and 5.29 gears. Rear is stock axles, ARB, and 5.29's. I plan on running 37" swampers, and eventually a doubler with a 4.7 low in one case and stock in the front and a 3.4l tacoma engine swap. Im wondering what brand of gears you guys are having success with. I thought about cryo's but i read they can be weaker. Im trying to build it as strong as possible from the get go staying with toy parts. This will be a DD rig as well so im not gonna thrash the **** out of it. And dont tell me to go with 60's:fawkdancesmiley: :awesomework:
Thanks:beer:

ToyZuki · Feb 19, 2008

In my opinion yukon is the way to go. Also I wont tell you that You should start with 60's. go rockwells:awesomework: Anyway it sounds like a solid build. Did you get another truck? hit the lotto? If you need a hand let me know.

Alpine4x4 · Feb 19, 2008

ToyZuki said:
In my opinion yukon is the way to go. Also I wont tell you that You should start with 60's. go rockwells:awesomework: Anyway it sounds like a solid build. Did you get another truck? hit the lotto? If you need a hand let me know.

Im looking for the right truck right now. Hopefully have it in the next month. I paid off all my bills i had so now im getting lik 4x the money as before. Plus tax returns. Wont be getting the parts till the end of summer, but i wanna make sure i do it right the first time and not have to fix any garbage that breaks.

MIG'DHORSE · Feb 19, 2008

i would leave weak points on the outside of the axle so they give before your gears do. dont do the arp/6 pin hub upgrade, and dont get chromoly rear axles. i'd rather blow a hub on the trail than a ring gear... but that's jussst me.

to directly answer your question, it's more important to have a diff set up right than anything else. they say that yukon is the best, but in the end a poorly set up yukon diff isnt gonna be any better than ripoff gears. don't get the rear cryo'd, because it softens the steel and it will ruin the gears to DD them. just cryo the front, because i assume youre running standard low pinion, which is weaker. id give those gears a little boost with bobby's cryo. ive heard more advantages to cryo then not.

no excuses · Feb 19, 2008

OK i will not tell u to go 60's:eeek:

go 9" :redneck: :haha: :haha:

Alpine4x4 · Feb 19, 2008

MIG'DHORSE said:
i would leave weak points on the outside of the axle so they give before your gears do. dont do the arp/6 pin hub upgrade, and dont get chromoly rear axles. i'd rather blow a hub on the trail than a ring gear... but that's jussst me.

to directly answer your question, it's more important to have a diff set up right than anything else. they say that yukon is the best, but in the end a poorly set up yukon diff isnt gonna be any better than ripoff gears. don't get the rear cryo'd, because it softens the steel and it will ruin the gears to DD them. just cryo the front, because i assume youre running standard low pinion, which is weaker. id give those gears a little boost with bobby's cryo. ive heard more advantages to cryo then not.

I didnt plan on chromo rars. I planned to stay stock. I agree on keeping the trail fixes simple so i will not upgrade the studs, ill just carry spares. Theyre cheaper than ring gears anyways! So chromo fronts not rear. I will be having a trained toy tech setting up the gears.

no excuses said:
OK i will not tell u to go 60's:eeek:

go 9" :redneck: :haha: :haha:

No domestic crap:fawkdancesmiley:

MIG'DHORSE · Feb 19, 2008

Alpine4x4 said:
I didnt plan on chromo rars. I planned to stay stock. I agree on keeping the trail fixes simple so i will not upgrade the studs, ill just carry spares. Theyre cheaper than ring gears anyways! So chromo fronts not rear. I will be having a trained toy tech setting up the gears.

No domestic crap:fawkdancesmiley:

good. that's my philosophy... they're cheaper and easier to fix on the trail. most people will tell you to beef everything up as much as possible.. but you cant really beef up a gear set. since bobby has really outdone himself with the 30 spliners and hub gears, the last weak spot is the hub and ring gear. keep the problem at the hub. that being said, it sounds like you gotta good deal ahead of you.:awesomework:

Alpine4x4 · Feb 19, 2008

MIG'DHORSE said:
good. that's my philosophy... they're cheaper and easier to fix on the trail. most people will tell you to beef everything up as much as possible.. but you cant really beef up a gear set. since bobby has really outdone himself with the 30 spliners and hub gears, the last weak spot is the hub and ring gear. keep the problem at the hub. that being said, it sounds like you gotta good deal ahead of you.:awesomework:

K thanks for the help. Im just trying tocreat the most bullet proof setup possible with the easiest repairs on the trail, all while staying toyota. MOney isnt much of an issue its just time:corn:

MIG'DHORSE · Feb 19, 2008

what size tires you think you wanna run?

Alpine4x4 · Feb 19, 2008

MIG'DHORSE said:
what size tires you think you wanna run?

37x12.5r15 Trxus Mt's. Ive read alot of reviews about them being a good rock/snow/dirt tire with above average mud capabilities thats expected from a swamper yet still having decent driveability and good mileage. Reports up to 40k miles but average 20-25k. Id be happy with 20k.

archer1965 · Feb 19, 2008

you must have a large budget for gas if this is going to be your DD? I'll bet you get <12 MPG. :corn:

Alpine4x4 · Feb 19, 2008

archer1965 said:
you must have a large budget for gas if this is going to be your DD? I'll bet you get <12 MPG. :corn:

That i do:redneck:

I have another car that gets 30-35 but i wont be able to use it all the time once i get my truck because my mom will use it instead of her exploder. So it will be a part time DD. I basically want a streetable wheeling rig.:beer:

Roccrawler · Feb 19, 2008

60's

but I didnt tell ya that

and I seen some rockwells this weekend I say.... UUUmm NO

ToyZuki · Feb 19, 2008

archer1965 said:
you must have a large budget for gas if this is going to be your DD? I'll bet you get <12 MPG. :corn:

I'm running the exact set up with out 30 splines and 36x14.5 swampers gettin 16.8 mpg highway. My old 3.slow got 16 with 4.56's and 32x11.5 bfg's

mthompson223 · Feb 20, 2008

Alpine4x4 said:
I will be having a trained toy tech setting up the gears.

I think you mean a master certified Toyota tech! :flipoff:

mthompson223 · Feb 20, 2008

I don't think you should run 5.29s unless you stuck with the 3.0L and babied it. I would go with the 4.88s if you're doing the 3.4L swap and running 37" tires. I've seen enough 5.29s fail in a Toyota 8", 3.0 V6, with 35" tires to know they're not as strong as the 4.88s. IMO, the 4.88s offer the lowest gear ratio possible in a Toy 8" before pinion strength is compromised. You would murder a set of 5.29s with a 22R-E and your driving style.

mthompson223 · Feb 20, 2008

Also, I know how much we all hate the 3.0L. But, have you considered sticking with the 3.0L? For thousands of dollars and hours less than a 3.4L swap, you can build a 3.0L up the right way that'll gladly fight a 3.4L. Mainly, eliminate the crossover, install rebuilt injectors, shave the heads, bore it out .040" over to gain 4.25 cubic inches, and possibly some port work. Getting rid of that shitty crossover is the most amazing thing ever. It completely wakes these engines up.

Alpine4x4 · Feb 20, 2008

mthompson223 said:
I think you mean a master certified Toyota tech! :flipoff:

:flipoff:

mthompson223 said:
I don't think you should run 5.29s unless you stuck with the 3.0L and babied it. I would go with the 4.88s if you're doing the 3.4L swap and running 37" tires. I've seen enough 5.29s fail in a Toyota 8", 3.0 V6, with 35" tires to know they're not as strong as the 4.88s. IMO, the 4.88s offer the lowest gear ratio possible in a Toy 8" before pinion strength is compromised. You would murder a set of 5.29s with a 22R-E and your driving style.

I dno man. I know the 4.88's would be stronger. I just dno if iwant to sacrafice the gearing. And i wouldnt murder anything, i only murder IFS and everything to do with it. Besides they got that shitty 7.5" ring gear...

mthompson223 said:
Also, I know how much we all hate the 3.0L. But, have you considered sticking with the 3.0L? For thousands of dollars and hours less than a 3.4L swap, you can build a 3.0L up the right way that'll gladly fight a 3.4L. Mainly, eliminate the crossover, install rebuilt injectors, shave the heads, bore it out .040" over to gain 4.25 cubic inches, and possibly some port work. Getting rid of that shitty crossover is the most amazing thing ever. It completely wakes these engines up.

I did and i will for awhile. The only thing i see with this is the inherit lack of gas mileage compared to a 3.4. I know your the 3.0 god so who knows. The engine swap wont be for quite awhile so ill have time to decide wether i want the turd polished or flushed.

NotMatt · Feb 20, 2008

Howcome you're set on the V6? I've got a nice shiny black extra cab '93 4 cylinder truck I'm sure we could work out a deal on.

Alpine4x4 · Feb 20, 2008

NotMatt said:
Howcome you're set on the V6? I've got a nice shiny black extra cab '93 4 cylinder truck I'm sure we could work out a deal on.

I was set on the V6 since its got a good tranny for a 3.4 swap. Also its got 6 gophers compared to the 4 squirrels. And if your talking about that damaged wreck that that kid from my highschool used to own no thank you:fawkdancesmiley: I remember him "mudding" it...poor toy. If its SR5 with teh moonroof i might come look at it