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Transfer case control module....(DD tech)

rpf500

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
1,171
Location
Evansville, IN
I've got a 2005 Tahoe that I'm pretty sure needs the TCCM. I've replaced the dash switch already, and I can get it to work temporarily by pulling the fuse and "waking" up the module.
My question...I've found some on eBay used, that match my part numbers exactly. I've read some threads that say dealer must program them, others say only need to have programmed if buying new OEM. Dorman offers one that apparently is plug and play. It's twice the price of eBay. Does anyone know for sure if a used one needs dealer programming?
 
I had a 2005 z71 Tahoe , thought the encoder motor was bad, turns out it was an 8 dollar connector on the motor that is known to go bad?
 
I used to replace them constantly along with mode switches on the dash. Yes I always had to program an OEM module.

Rarely was the encoder motor bad. I wouldn't go that route until you have used the tcase codes to truly diagnose it
 
If I pull the fuse and let it sit 5 minutes, all modes of 4wd and auto 4wd function. Last time it went about a week before throwing dash indicator. Before that maybe 2 or 4 days. So I'm assuming that motor and actuator are both fine since they function. I read about modules failing internally over time which made sense to me given the symptoms. Basically it's about $75 for a used and the potential fee from GM to reset it possibly. Or around $150 aftermarket, no programming needed. I think I just talked myself in to using aftermarket as I typed this. My time and hassle is worth the $75 extra.
 
My truck is an 08, but I had no 4wd after my batteries died a couple winters ago from sitting.

I ended up with the Dorman tccm ($80 something on Amazon) and it still wouldn't respond to the reset procedure using the dial on the dash. I took it to the dealer and they reflashed it, had no issues ever since.
 
There is a few different things that could go bad, probably just better off going to dealer and at least let them tell you what it is, can get very expensive trying to sling parts at it.
 
Get the codes out of it first, then diagnose it from there. Most independent shops should be able to scan it for you and give you a direction to go. It could be the encoder ring in the transfer case motor, I've put several of them in. It's 4 more screws to take out and an extra 10 minutes vs swapping the entire motor and saves a considerable amount of money.
 
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