• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

what do you guys think?

uhohhotdog151

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
171
so im building a car trailer. it was campertrailer frame. i added quite a bit of bracing to the frame. it was flimsy as hell before. its fairly rigid now. but im wondering if i should build a sub frame on top of the existing frame. or will it be overkill? the tongue and axles are rated for 5k. so should i build a sub frame? or just throw the decking on?

sdfghj.jpg


sdfghjk.jpg
 
Last edited:
So after it weighs around 2000 pounds, you can max it out hauling a 3000 pound car?

Need bigger axles dude.:eeek:

well obvisouly im gonna be over weight. :redneck: so.....subframe? or ya think itll work how it is?
 
Last edited:
my trailer is a camp trailer and it is very sturdy tows incredibly straight down the road an has no sub frame. I love it.
 
Youve got plenty of frame. Dont buy treated 2x6s, get non treated (stronger).:awesomework:

DONT WORRY ABOUT THE FRAME. YOUR AXLES WILL DO THE SPLITS :scratchhead:
 
Youve got plenty of frame. Dont buy treated 2x6s, get non treated (stronger).:awesomework:

DONT WORRY ABOUT THE FRAME. YOUR AXLES WILL DO THE SPLITS :scratchhead:

2x6's? is that what i should use? i was thinking 2x10's or evens 2x12's. does it matter?
 
i have 2x8 on mine except the middle one is a 2x12 I still need to make ramps for mine the only downfall to a camper trailer is width but i fit my toy axles with 38 12.50s no prob.
 
2x6s wont warp, cup or split as bad as wider boards. you also wind up with more gaps between the boards for water to drain thru.
 
2x6s wont warp, cup or split as bad as wider boards. you also wind up with more gaps between the boards for water to drain thru.

Nice:awesomework:

they were my first pick due to costs.:cool:

I picked up a pair of 5200# axles tonight. I will post up a build in the tow section soon. Stomper Trailer!!:beer:
 
1) Find the axle weight rating on those trailer axles. I've seen trailer axles with 2500 ratings, and a *few* with 3500 pound ratings. Do the math. Two 2500 rated axles will only support 5000 TOTAL pounds, with the trailer finished estimated to weigh 1500, that only allows 3500 for your load.

2) I'm not a fan of that frame. Yeah, you've got some who say it's enough. But the stringers that go from front to back seem particularly thin guage. I realize that the pics don't do justince, but bending is a distict possiblility. And I've seen where you've welded in reinforcements, however the reinforcements should have been welded in on edge for strenght, not on face. A simple test. Use a piece of that 4x2 C-channel for a ramp, and drive up it. It'll bend fast. However, if you turn it on edge, it'll support a LOT more weight.

3) Screw those guys who say to not use pressure treated lumber. They're wrong. My trailer deck is now 13 or 14 years old, and still solid. Get pressure treated unless the trailer is going to be sold. That ****'s the bomb. After all, the woods not supposed to support the load, it's just a decking for the steel underneath that's supposed to carry the load.
 
1) Find the axle weight rating on those trailer axles. I've seen trailer axles with 2500 ratings, and a *few* with 3500 pound ratings. Do the math. Two 2500 rated axles will only support 5000 TOTAL pounds, with the trailer finished estimated to weigh 1500, that only allows 3500 for your load.

2) I'm not a fan of that frame. Yeah, you've got some who say it's enough. But the stringers that go from front to back seem particularly thin guage. I realize that the pics don't do justince, but bending is a distict possiblility. And I've seen where you've welded in reinforcements, however the reinforcements should have been welded in on edge for strenght, not on face. A simple test. Use a piece of that 4x2 C-channel for a ramp, and drive up it. It'll bend fast. However, if you turn it on edge, it'll support a LOT more weight.

1) i can just swap in a heavier set of axles and be good to go right? would i need new tongue?

2)you thing that channel isnt strong enough? iven tied into all the ladderals? its like 1/4-3/8"

think it would be alright how it is? with the other brace put in? i guess i could always build a subframe later if its not strong enough.
 
Id add alot more steel to that thing Jordan. My trailer has that size c-channel doubled stacked in front and goes to a single after the rear axle. Also, like Tree Climber said, those c-channels laid flat are much much weaker than when laid on edge. Just take a look at some other trailers, they will all be built on edge. If you had square tube then that would be a different story.

Dont skip on the axles either. My trailer has 3500lb axles and I wish it had larger wheels and tires as I have had many blow outs and have had the brakes smoking when I had my old F150.

I saw two brand new trailer axles strapped to a pallet at the steel scrap yard near the dump, I believe they were 8-lug. Could be a good score.
 
i built my trailer out of a similar camper trailer. I eliminated all the cross bracing and all the bracing on the outside of the frame rails. i then used 3x3 1/4 wall angle and made a 16'x7.5' box and sat that over the original frame rails. i put 8 new cross members spaning from outside to outside. i do have steel fenders to drive over but you could cut and widen the axles to make them wider. The bracing that comes on those trailers isnt designed to hold 3000 pounds shifting on top of it, they are a little thin. I would also use 2x6 because you will have less warping. Just my .02
 
Top