Which Toyota Clutch?

Phantom 309 · Mar 28, 2012

The clutch in my 89 pickup is starting to give up and it's time to replace it. The truck has a 22RE, deep enough gearing for the tires and is a trail only rig.

What kind of clutches are you guys running? I've had people swear by a quality stock replacement and hate Centerforce....and some that say just the opposite. Any opinions?

POR · Mar 28, 2012

I run centerforce in all my rigs, I like them :awesomework:

pokey · Mar 28, 2012

Phantom 309 said:
The clutch in my 89 pickup is starting to give up and it's time to replace it. The truck has a 22RE, deep enough gearing for the tires and is a trail only rig.

What kind of clutches are you guys running? I've had people swear by a quality stock replacement and hate Centerforce....and some that say just the opposite. Any opinions?

Centerforce is the best way to go. The only downside to them and Diaphragm type clutches in general is that they can get stuck in the open position if used in deep soupy muddy water conditions to much. Mud and small sticks can get behind the springs when disengaged and not allow the clutch to engage. That said I have only had that happen once in over 20 years of using them. Usually you can just rev the motor and spin out any garbage that got in there

WHITE TRASH1 · Mar 28, 2012

Centerforce is no better than stock unless you are spinning it in the upper rpm range.

I was extremely happy with my 1600lb clutch from marlin. It drove like stock but the increased pressure plate rate made sure it didn't slip once my foot was off the clutch pedal.

I have a zoom dual friction in my 78 yota go kart and I really like it. It is super grabby but it holds tight even on 6k clutch dumps.

A stock clutch will hold for awhile but it won't put up with much shenanigans wheeling hard.

Mark m. · Mar 28, 2012

Center force duel fiction. Pedal feels stock and they never wear out.
I right now have a toyota with a 4cyl with one another toyota with a V6 and a supercharger and a 69 chevelle with 400HP with one and would never use anything else.

Glenn · Mar 28, 2012

I have over 100K miles on my cheapo clutch from Schuck's. I can see a stock clutch going a long way on a trail only rig.

stealthrunner1 · Mar 29, 2012

With all the Bull **** being said!!!!!Centerforce Dual friction and Call it good!!!! mine is going in another rig soon after being in my F-Toy !!! ask and you will see!!! OK just ask Mark M. and Tom on Crawlinbc.com!!!!They know!!! Seems when i wheel i have a problem with not remembering some full throttle assaults!!! :eeek:

:beer:

Phantom 309 · Mar 29, 2012

The complaint that I keep hearing from guys using the CF is that there is no "play." It's either fully engaged or disengaged. No grey area. Any truth to that?
I've also seen the disk on a CF completely come apart after about 2000 miles. It was probably once in a lifetime occurance though. Regardless I think I'm either going to go with the CF or Marlin. Most likely the Marlin kit if I can wait long enough for them to get back in stock.

WHITE TRASH1 · Mar 29, 2012

The on/off clutch isn't exclusive to Centerforce at alk its all about the material the disc material is made of. A dual friction disc will be real grabby and not want to slip much at all. An organic disc will slip if you want it and a heavy pressure plate will keep it engaged.

My only gripe with Centerforce clutches is people rush out and buy them for the name. The only advantage they have over any other clutch is the weighted pressure plate that increases pressure in the upper rpm's. What good does that do crawling? None. If you want an aggressive clutch save the cash and get a zoom dual friction. If you want a nice stock feeling clutch that won't slip get a marlin. If you want to drop the hammer at 6k and above get a ceramic Centerforce. :redneck:

CHOP SHOP · Mar 29, 2012

I dont care about grip or slip or performance blah blah.

But as a mechanic I can tell you one thing for sure. The parts store clutches have completely gone to ****. They dont seem to be bad in the friction material choice, but quality of the disc and stamping/assembly has gone to ****.

I have replaced 5 clutches in the last 3 years that had AWESOME looking friction material but the discs had blown apart. Its always between the coil springs on along the stamping lines that get crimped into them when pressed/riveted together.

The quality if the parts store clutch kits are very evident in the thrwout bearing they come with.

All the parts store clutches come with a tiny little TO bearing that is then crimped into a tin housing that makes it fit in a toyota. The bearing itself is TINY and about half the size of the crimped housing.

It doesnt matter where ya get it (rock auto, marlin, TG, ebay Dealer), make sure its an AISIN/SECCO with a JAP throwout bearing.

Otherwise ya might be back in there is 3 months to removed the cracking/crunching clutch disc that you just got a "deal" on.

CHOP SHOP · Mar 29, 2012

If you use a CF, get their TO bearing.

If you get a CF ADJUST IT before using it.

It comes with a bright orange papar that says, "IMPORTANT ADJ INSTRUCTIONS" and folks still skip this step and wonder whats wrong.

Phantom 309 · Mar 29, 2012

Thanks for the info. I ended up ordering the Marlin (all Aisin/Secco parts.) The 1600lb ones won't be in for a while so the talked me into the 1200lb version. I may regret it, but I want to get this thing up and going again.

thursday · Mar 29, 2012

i ran the newer 22re flywheel that has a little larger mating surface (94 i believe) and an oem clutch and never had a problem with my stroked 2.7 22re