Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
we will see.
by geared right..i assume u mean dual cases, or lower case gears...
or we arent "rock crawlers"
Yes i mean a lower t case gearing. I run a 4 to 1 and 5.38s
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lets talk about auto transmissions for wheeling
- Thread starter Hip
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Yes i mean a lower t case gearing. I run a 4 to 1 and 5.38s
Roccrawler
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we will see.
by geared right..i assume u mean dual cases, or lower case gears...
or we arent "rock crawlers"
as with anything.. if your not geared properly for your set up things wont work properly
2pwrlftrs4u
NWW Meanie
TF999:nothing.. just wanted to know if you had to do over if you'd go with something different.
i'd not gain alot with the AW4 esp where i wanted (1st gear): 1st gear is the same, 4th only gives .75 opposed to the TF999 3rd gear 1:1
i will be running a 4:1 D300 with 4:88's in the axles; 37"s
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
There is very little aftermarket support for the AW4 as far as valvebodies and converters go. Plus the electronic shifting was a pain in the ass I didnt want to deal with and one more thing to go wrong. The 999 is virtually a 904 which is a little brother to the 727, a very popular tranny in the drag racing world. There is a lot of aftermarket support for the Torque Flight series. Your gearing should be good with 37s and a 4 to 1 :awesomework:
For shifters see...http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/shifter/
I welded my reverse lockout up and cut out the gates like they show so I can go from any forward gear to reverse and not hit park. Its sweet.
P
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No One has mentioned the powerglide yet? :eeek: probably he most bulletproof tranny you can build. not to mention it is very compact. hang a 4.1 or 5.1 case off it and some 5.13-5.38s and you have a pretty good combo. I'm running a Th400 and 4.10s and in low (np 205) I can blow the tires off on dry pavement (44s) with a mild 454. The Th400 is a great tranny plenty of upgrades, but if you plan on abusing the 1-2 upshift get a 34 element sprag the stock one is a weak link.
Torque converters. http://rodcustom.automotive.com/79866/0808rc-torque-converters/index.html
800 stall? maybe if your running a briggs and stratton :haha:
Torque converters. http://rodcustom.automotive.com/79866/0808rc-torque-converters/index.html
800 stall? maybe if your running a briggs and stratton :haha:
Hippy...
I'm running c6-203/205 and 4.56's w/ 42's...
and a 2400-2500rpm stall....(from Hughes)
I think I went a little too high w/ the stall....at least w/ a bigblock. Mine in lo-lo-low at idle will almost sit still w/o brakes....ZERO worry about pushing through.....which can be nice, and also a PITA. I'd definitly go down in stall if doing it again...its fun at times though. And I'll be the 100th person to advise you to run the biggest cooler you can get in there.
as far as valvebodys.....I'm sold on the Trans-Go stuff. I'm not exactly sure how the th350 works....but in the Ford trannys.....you can manually hold and/or shift into 1st or 2nd, but will auto shift through the gears when left in 3rd (D). Mine shifts AWSOME.......it'll bark tires at all shifts at WFO (as will the full manual)...but the nice thing about still retaining the auto VB....and the transgo kits I've used.....when just putting/crawling around (little/no throttle) you get a nice easy/soft shift. It doesn't sound like a big deal....but other valvebodys I've played with....when your in low, or low-low...and just putting around, and click another gear when it smooths out and it BANGS into 2nd when your at 1/8th throttle....bugs the **** outta me..
my $.02
--B
I'm running c6-203/205 and 4.56's w/ 42's...
and a 2400-2500rpm stall....(from Hughes)
I think I went a little too high w/ the stall....at least w/ a bigblock. Mine in lo-lo-low at idle will almost sit still w/o brakes....ZERO worry about pushing through.....which can be nice, and also a PITA. I'd definitly go down in stall if doing it again...its fun at times though. And I'll be the 100th person to advise you to run the biggest cooler you can get in there.
as far as valvebodys.....I'm sold on the Trans-Go stuff. I'm not exactly sure how the th350 works....but in the Ford trannys.....you can manually hold and/or shift into 1st or 2nd, but will auto shift through the gears when left in 3rd (D). Mine shifts AWSOME.......it'll bark tires at all shifts at WFO (as will the full manual)...but the nice thing about still retaining the auto VB....and the transgo kits I've used.....when just putting/crawling around (little/no throttle) you get a nice easy/soft shift. It doesn't sound like a big deal....but other valvebodys I've played with....when your in low, or low-low...and just putting around, and click another gear when it smooths out and it BANGS into 2nd when your at 1/8th throttle....bugs the **** outta me..
my $.02
--B
huh? I run a ls1 to th400 to a 4.3 atlas with a 1700 to 1800 stall and a art carr manual valve body. My stall is not working for me it drives through the brakes bad so Im going to install an art carr 2500 stall converter. I love my art carr shifter I wouldnt trade it for nothing and I love my manual valve body, also the auto is hands down the **** I will never go back to a stick.:;
ok...so ur running LOW case gears...pretty much the same thing.
and, i dont agree about the auto....but, thats just me. i like to SHIFT, and have FULL control.:redneck:
Money Mark
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"No, you're wrong, I'm right."
"No! you're wrong, I'm right!"
"No! You're wrong......"
STFU nevada. For Christs' sake......STOP! You are contributing nothing technical to this thread. An opinion, is an opinion. Great, you have one. Good for you. :awesomework:
Now......I have a 1700 stall (I think) on my TH400, 4.3 Atlas and 4.3 Chevy Vortec V6, 5.38 axle gears......and I have no issues to speek of. No brake booster and 12" long brake pedals. Brakes work perfect with no "drive through".
"No! you're wrong, I'm right!"
"No! You're wrong......"
STFU nevada.
For Christs' sake......STOP! You are contributing nothing technical to this thread. An opinion, is an opinion. Great, you have one. Good for you. :awesomework: Now......I have a 1700 stall (I think) on my TH400, 4.3 Atlas and 4.3 Chevy Vortec V6, 5.38 axle gears......and I have no issues to speek of. No brake booster and 12" long brake pedals. Brakes work perfect with no "drive through".
Last edited:
"No, you're wrong, I'm right."
"No! you're wrong, I'm right!"
"No! You're wrong......"
STFU nevada.
Now......I have a 1700 stall on my TH400, 4.3 Atlas and 4.3 Chevy Vortec V6, 5.38 axle gears......and I have no issues to speek of. No brake booster and 12" long brake pedals. Brakes work perfect with no "drive through".
well arent you special..........
Money Mark
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- Joined
- May 19, 2006
- Messages
- 563
Wildman1
Well-Known Member
Hip,
I am running a 1200 stall with a stock 5.2/318, 5.13 gears, 38" Swampers & STaK's tranny. Now I KNOW Nevada will say it is the same as a dual case but in high-low I am 3.05:1 and have no issues in the snow, rocks, mud, sand, slickrock or any other terrain. In low-low (5.44:1) I still can't drive thru my brakes, well unless I am playing around that is.
I think a stock torque converter will be fine for you. That is my .02 worth.
I am running a 1200 stall with a stock 5.2/318, 5.13 gears, 38" Swampers & STaK's tranny. Now I KNOW Nevada will say it is the same as a dual case but in high-low I am 3.05:1 and have no issues in the snow, rocks, mud, sand, slickrock or any other terrain. In low-low (5.44:1) I still can't drive thru my brakes, well unless I am playing around that is.
I think a stock torque converter will be fine for you. That is my .02 worth.
P
PUO-BANNED
Guest
Ok. I posted a link earlier giving some basic info on design, operation, stall etc. of torque converters. I hope all of you read it.
All I can say is talk to a professional tech and give them as much info about your rig as you can. Weight, gearing, dyno sheet or engine specs and intended use, then they will help you pick a off the shelf converter that comes close to matching your application or if you have the $$ a custom built converter that is perfect for your application.
nevada either has a gutless motor and he's blaming it on the tranny. Or he's done some mods and hasn't picked a converter to match the peak torque output of the engine.
I was once a die hard manual lover and that was only because of durability issues. an auto can be built to eliminate durability problems and you have that instantaneous shift, no letting off the throttle to downshift or upshift.
i would build a TH400 with a full manual reverse pattern valvebody and maybe a trans brake for showing off at the hill climbs
All I can say is talk to a professional tech and give them as much info about your rig as you can. Weight, gearing, dyno sheet or engine specs and intended use, then they will help you pick a off the shelf converter that comes close to matching your application or if you have the $$ a custom built converter that is perfect for your application.
nevada either has a gutless motor and he's blaming it on the tranny. Or he's done some mods and hasn't picked a converter to match the peak torque output of the engine.
I was once a die hard manual lover and that was only because of durability issues. an auto can be built to eliminate durability problems and you have that instantaneous shift, no letting off the throttle to downshift or upshift.
i would build a TH400 with a full manual reverse pattern valvebody and maybe a trans brake for showing off at the hill climbs
Dan76
Member
Ok. I posted a link earlier giving some basic info on design, operation, stall etc. of torque converters. I hope all of you read it.
All I can say is talk to a professional tech and give them as much info about your rig as you can. Weight, gearing, dyno sheet or engine specs and intended use, then they will help you pick a off the shelf converter that comes close to matching your application or if you have the $$ a custom built converter that is perfect for your application.
x2
Talk with a professional and order a TC built to your needs. To many factors are involved to just guess.
PORTER
Well-Known Member
I run a turbo-400, TransGo stage 3 shift kit which makes it full manual shift(costs about 100 bones), in my buggy and feel this is almost a bulletproof setup. Almost meaning everything breaks in offroading period. My converter is stock, about 47-1 Crawl ratio and couldnt be more happier. The automatic trans when properly geared, and cooled is a far superior setup compared to any manual trans in every situation besides being able to compression start your rig. I was a manual guy years ago, but knowing what i know now will never go back.
wheelinjp
Well-Known Member
I have always had an auto in my wheelers and loved them. I am now doing a blazer with a 4sp, but thats because I like to regress in my builds. Anyway even when I had my cj5 with a 350 sbc th350 and dana 20(2-1 low) with 3.73s and 36s it had decent crawling abilities with a stock converter. It was suited perfectly for the trails but a lil hurting on the rocks. I did break a tailhousing on the th350 though. Now my next wheeler was a yj with one tons and 5.13s a tbi 350, th400 and a stock geared dana 300(2.62-1) and 40in tires and it crawled better but had a hard time in high range in the snow. It had a stock converter too. I vote for a th400 with the upgrades and a stall converter.
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
Who do you guys recommend that I talk to about getting a different torque converter? Good local shops or companies, or a reputable out of state company? :beer:
