Buy steel and get started on my front leaf perches. I'm going to stick with the RE1444's I have. Decide whether to remount the steering box and keep a drag link, or stick with the full hydro plan.
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- Thread starter NotMatt
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Buy steel and get started on my front leaf perches. I'm going to stick with the RE1444's I have. Decide whether to remount the steering box and keep a drag link, or stick with the full hydro plan.
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
full hydro 
full hydro
Yep, steering boxes are for pavement pounders and mall crawlers. :fawkdancesmiley:
i know how that goes...
and i just picked up my 4runner on saturday...my next money pi...
i mean my next build:redneck:
ToyZuki
Well-Known Member
bout damn time:awesomework:
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
Which Sunday? :redneck:
So I'm back into the t-case dilemma, since my brother just offered to give me a D300 for rent this month.
I have a Ford Kingpin HP60 out of a '90 truck. If I keep it driver's drop, and narrow the long side 6 total inches, the spring pads line up exactly with the YJ frame rails... Since I am going to be running H1 double beadlocks without recentering, I would then need to run 2" spacers on each side (to fit the wheels over the brakes and steering arm and such), putting the width almost exactly the same as my 14 bolt rear, and tucking my hubs in a bit for protection. Perfect.
Now I don't know what to do.
Sell the 300 and stick with the original plan of buying an Atlas? Polish the 300 with the Stak D300 Replace-a-case (300 flip done the right way)? Sell the Ford 60 and buy a chevy 60 and re-figure all my math on narrowing and such? Take the Ford 60 to S&N and have them retube it passenger side drop?
I like the first option... but it's tempting to be able to just bolt up the 300 with a clocking ring, keep it pass. drop, and throw a pass. drop 60 in.
Decisions.
I have a Ford Kingpin HP60 out of a '90 truck. If I keep it driver's drop, and narrow the long side 6 total inches, the spring pads line up exactly with the YJ frame rails... Since I am going to be running H1 double beadlocks without recentering, I would then need to run 2" spacers on each side (to fit the wheels over the brakes and steering arm and such), putting the width almost exactly the same as my 14 bolt rear, and tucking my hubs in a bit for protection. Perfect.
Now I don't know what to do.
Sell the 300 and stick with the original plan of buying an Atlas? Polish the 300 with the Stak D300 Replace-a-case (300 flip done the right way)? Sell the Ford 60 and buy a chevy 60 and re-figure all my math on narrowing and such? Take the Ford 60 to S&N and have them retube it passenger side drop?
I like the first option... but it's tempting to be able to just bolt up the 300 with a clocking ring, keep it pass. drop, and throw a pass. drop 60 in.
Decisions.
**** it. Atlas.
Anyone want to buy a D300? :redneck:
[EDIT]: After figuring the cost of a D300 replace-a-case from Stak, gears, and HD outputs for a 300, I might as well just sack up and buy an Atlas or Stak 2 or 3 speed.
Anyone want to buy a D300? :redneck:
[EDIT]: After figuring the cost of a D300 replace-a-case from Stak, gears, and HD outputs for a 300, I might as well just sack up and buy an Atlas or Stak 2 or 3 speed.
Cheap? I'm always collecting. Don't need more than that for the CJ-5, but I already have one spare.
:awesomework: can't go wrong with an altas!
Can you fit that 3 speed for sale on here? 2200 is a great price.
Good to see you are making some head way!:cheer:
:awesomework: can't go wrong with an altas!
Can you fit that 3 speed for sale on here? 2200 is a great price.
Good to see you are making some head way!:cheer:
I was eyein' that, and 2200 is a good price. I'd have to change the input for a 23 spline since I'm running an AX-15 for now... the main issue is lack of 2200 bucks to drop on a t-case right at this moment. :booo:
I gotta check it out and make sure, but probably $300.
wheelinjp
Well-Known Member
just an fyi the chevy will bolt in so if you want to narrow it, you will need to do both sides. the d300 in pass drop is a pretty cheap way to get 4 to 1 even with all the upgrades. I also assume your 14bolt is a 67.5in wide one so the h1s will fit just fine with no spacers. I ran a stock d300 on my yj with 5.13s in the d60s chev pass drop d60 on new 40in tsl's with a small block chevy and th400 and never broke it for 4 years of wheelin. Id go with selling the ford 60 (you dont need a rev rot housing up front) or call s&n and see if they have a spare chev housing laying around like they did for me. have them retube the rev rot for the rear with 14b outer spindles graphted on. that is exactly what I did to mine, and they had a chevy front housing already they sold me cheap. then you have a nice high pinion rear and a pass drop front d6 also. The 14b spindle thing is so 35spline shafts fit into the d60 tubes(stock d60 rear would have to be bored) and the bearings are soooooo fricken common every parts store has them in stock. just something to think about. :cheer: I love the build too. :awesomework: maybe run some 3/16ths strap all the way over the front of the front bushing tube on the end of the frame though, would make it bomb proof.:awesomework:
Good info, but I just got done chopping the pass. side C off my 60, so I'm committed now.
And yeah, I thought about adding some plate to the top and bottom of the bushing mounts after I painted it. That will be an easy addition that I will do at the same time I weld my grill mount on.
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