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GM Gauge Cluster

mark

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The gauge cluster in my '04 silverado just took a ****.

I've had problems with the gauges themselves, the tach as been erratic for a while, I know about the stepper motors and even have a set to put in someday when I have some "free time". But for a little while now is has been slow to energies. Like you turn the truck on, everything comes up (radio etc) but the instruments are dark for a little while longer, then it was a little longer, sometimes it would even take minutes. Last week or so they have been cutting out in the middle of driving. Working fine, then "reset", or even go blank for a couple then back on. Been getting steadily worse, not pretty much nothing other than the occasional flicker of life.


I know this is not an unknown issue, but is it a relay thing? A computer thing or a cluster thing? Home fix or new cluster from the dealer or other aftermarket source? Searching around it sounds like there was a warranty/recall on them for a while, but it was only like till 70 or 80,000 miles, I'm at 135 now so I have a feeling that is not going to happen. I really don't have the coin nor do I want to drop $300-$600 for a new cluster. Any thoughts?
 
That's what mine did too. I dropped mine off at tacoma speedometer and about 3hrs later picked it up. All new stepper motors and a new power supply. If I remember it was around $200 but that was a while back.
 
I thought you could buy the parts cheap to fix these , check the chevy boards and ebay
 
The gauge cluster in my '04 silverado just took a ****.

I've had problems with the gauges themselves, the tach as been erratic for a while, I know about the stepper motors and even have a set to put in someday when I have some "free time". But for a little while now is has been slow to energies. Like you turn the truck on, everything comes up (radio etc) but the instruments are dark for a little while longer, then it was a little longer, sometimes it would even take minutes. Last week or so they have been cutting out in the middle of driving. Working fine, then "reset", or even go blank for a couple then back on. Been getting steadily worse, not pretty much nothing other than the occasional flicker of life.


I know this is not an unknown issue, but is it a relay thing? A computer thing or a cluster thing? Home fix or new cluster from the dealer or other aftermarket source? Searching around it sounds like there was a warranty/recall on them for a while, but it was only like till 70 or 80,000 miles, I'm at 135 now so I have a feeling that is not going to happen. I really don't have the coin nor do I want to drop $300-$600 for a new cluster. Any thoughts?

Internal cluster failure...

There was a special policy and you can't go junk yard because you can't get the millage correct--plus you would have to have it programmed to meet your RPO's on the truck...

I can help you on the programming side if you go with a replacement.
 
I thought you could buy the parts cheap to fix these , check the chevy boards and ebay
Pretty sure the "cheap fix" is just the stepper motors which is "working cluster, erratic gauges", my tach was like that and new steppers was on the list of things to do "eventually".... now looks like that is a Moot point.


Thanks Mike, I'll drop Tacoma Spedo a shout and see what they can do, then maybe hit you up for a re-prog if necessary.


I was REALLY hoping it was just a relay that feed the cluster...... no, that would be too easy.
 
When I first got my 03 they would die from time to time. All at the same time.

Now when it is cold out they don't immediately come on sometimes. Sure it's annoying but I haven't experienced total failure.

It's a sporadic problem that is only when it is cold outside. After a minute or so they come on and then there are no problems.
 
When I first got my 03 they would die from time to time. All at the same time.

Now when it is cold out they don't immediately come on sometimes. Sure it's annoying but I haven't experienced total failure.

It's a sporadic problem that is only when it is cold outside. After a minute or so they come on and then there are no problems.

You're on borrowed time Karl! It only takes about 5min to pull the cluster and you can still drive the truck with it removed.
 
Agreed. Same as mine was, got longer and longer till now nothing. I need to get with it, I got my gos for an odometer and speedo, but really miss the fuel gauge and parking break light :)
 
When I first got my 03 they would die from time to time. All at the same time.

Now when it is cold out they don't immediately come on sometimes. Sure it's annoying but I haven't experienced total failure.

It's a sporadic problem that is only when it is cold outside. After a minute or so they come on and then there are no problems.

My 03 has done the same for years. It'll pop back on after hitting a bump in the road. The speedo will also start dropping to zero after driving for a couple hours. If I stop for a few minutes, the speedo usually comes back to life.

Now, the cluster has an intermittent current draw that will kill the battery after a few days. I have to pull the fuse if it's going to sit too long.
 
Been there done that, took 5 mins to pull the cluster, and like was said above the truck is still driveable with out it. Just gotta "feel" for the gear.


Also, anyone else deal with the window and door lock control switches not working? I've been sitting on mine for about 1.5 years with it working sometimes but not all the time. Finally decided to take a peak. I found once you pull the master switch assembly, they aren't single switches in the assembly but one large switch. Pop the thing open and there's 2 circuit boards. I talked to a friend and he mentioned try rubbing the area's of the board where the button hit with a rubber eraser. Put it all back together and all is good again. Works like new, 0 dollars spent and took about 10 minutes to pull the door panel and another 10 to carefully open the switch assembly. :awesomework:
 
Been there done that, took 5 mins to pull the cluster, and like was said above the truck is still driveable with out it. Just gotta "feel" for the gear.


Also, anyone else deal with the window and door lock control switches not working? I've been sitting on mine for about 1.5 years with it working sometimes but not all the time. Finally decided to take a peak. I found once you pull the master switch assembly, they aren't single switches in the assembly but one large switch. Pop the thing open and there's 2 circuit boards. I talked to a friend and he mentioned try rubbing the area's of the board where the button hit with a rubber eraser. Put it all back together and all is good again. Works like new, 0 dollars spent and took about 10 minutes to pull the door panel and another 10 to carefully open the switch assembly. :awesomework:


Yes I had to do that too. Took the control boards apart and cleaned them up with a scalpel and pencil eraser.

Also took apart my window motors. Water had gotten into them and it corroded the springs that hold the brushes to the motor. Put some springs from a couple bic "clicky" pens in there and they are good to go now.

When you first look at the window motors they appear to be non serviceable. A little wiggling of the black plastic cap and they come right apart.

My drivers window motor still doesn't work. I fear something **** the bed on the control board. It isn't getting power at the motor at all. I tried switching the power relays from the driver to passenger control boards but that didn't fix the problem.

I have a donor I can pull to test if mine are actually toast. :awesomework:
 
Well just tonight my cluster took a ****. Nothing. Only the backlights and turn signals. :mad:

Mark, did you ever get yours fixed?
 
Last edited:
I thought I updated this thread.

X1000 for Tacoma Speedo. Pulled my cluster out one day and dropped it in UPS, they got it the next day and had it back in the mail by the end of the day, 5 minutes after my UPS showed up on day 3 I had a fully functioning dash again and its been flawless since.

Can't remember off the top of my head how much it was, I want to say $100 and change, but WELL worth it. Would be even faster if I lived close enough drop it off in person and pick it up, but I don't.
 
Karl is this what your window motor looked like? I'm trying to add the springs like you talked about, and I can't figure out how to get to them. I can see the factory springs down inside the black part, just above the white band on the house. Problem is when I pull that part up the motor windings are to big and it wont come off.
 

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Yessir, it was a bit tricky to get the motor itself apart, but it does come apart. IIRC we pulled the white ring off of the motor, and then used some dental picks to get at the springs that hold the brushes to the motor.

You are very close, try prying at that white ring and i believe after that you can see the springs and brushes.
 
Now that I think about it, we wiggled loose the motor from the drum at the white piece. In your photo it came apart at the bottom of the white piece with the shaft indexing the drum.
 
Well thanks for the advice guys. Turns out I'm a bit like a bull in a china shop, late last night I ened up cracking the case while trying to get it apart. So after hours of messing with this thing, I called up a Gavin and he got me a new assembly (motor and regulator) for cheap. Picked it up and had it back together in about 30 minutes.

I guess sometimes spending hours to save a few bucks just doesn't work out. :redneck:
 
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