Toy Story

Maverick26 said:

Was reading about a guy that used '88 pickup IFS rotors, calipers and Master but didnt say if it was V6 or not. Everything just bolted on his '81 truck tho. I guess the question is, is there a difference between 88 4cyl and V6 calipers and rotors. I know the master is from a V6 cause thats what Marlin sells.

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fj80 rotors are solid axle like your truck, but vented and share the same thickness as the ifs rotors/calipers. the ifs rotors are NOT going to workl for you.


You dont need to upgrade the master, yours will work fine. Your brakes just warp to easily so the rotors need upgraded.

Just call me. I got the recipe.

The only reason I used the V6 MC is because I did rear disc.

Ok sounds good guys, Chop... ill call you today some time. I got a list of things to get at Napa on my way home from work and I would like to get the brakes replaced in the front at least then take a look at the rears later. The fronts feel like my tires are square when coming to a stop.

So, this doesnt look like your buggy at all? :stirpot:

Im changing all the fluids in the truck, I dont have a manual yet. Any advise on what kind of oil to put in diffs, tranny and tcase? anything other then 80w-90 that I have already? I drained them and only the tranny smelled like 90w. Not sure.

Just 80/90 for christs sake. :eeek:


Are you looking for someone to tell ya to buy some miracle oil? Cuz these rigs dont believe in miracles! Just keeping them FULL is more than 90 percent of the owners can manage.


The ONLY thing worth giving fancy sauce to is the power steering. ROYAL PURPLE only for the steering. It will run much cooler and quieter.

GL4 is spec'd for the trans, helps the syncros move more freely when cold...GL5 80w/90 is fine for the rest of the boxes...

CHOP SHOP said:

Just 80/90 for christs sake. :eeek:


Are you looking for someone to tell ya to buy some miracle oil? Cuz these rigs dont believe in miracles! Just keeping them FULL is more than 90 percent of the owners can manage.


The ONLY thing worth giving fancy sauce to is the power steering. ROYAL PURPLE only for the steering. It will run much cooler and quieter.

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Easy tiger, I was just making sure. When I get me some power steering Ill give it the purple juice!

I got turn signal issues on this thing. When I got the truck the front bumper and front signals were mia so I ordered some and got them yesterday. Thinking the reason my signals didnt work was the missing lights I plugged everything in and still inop. Hazards work fine tho. Im thinking flasher/relay for the signals is funky but have not done anything with it.

Try this.....it worked for my uncle. Blinker fluid.

Not quite as easy as the fluid. I think its the multi function switch. I replaced the flasher with an off the shelf part from napa. Hazards work fine and all lights flash but im not getting any power to the fuse when I turn on either left or right turn.

Has anyone messed with these multi switches and got them to work? New one is over $100. Gonna try and fine a working one in a parting out rig.

Ok, been fixing this thing up good the last few weeks, mostly cleaning and inspecting things and making sure all is good. After I got everything electical working good I moved on to the mechanical stuff. Started by draining all the fluids and replacing with fresh and now I am into the front axle and brakes. If I can find parts faster then I think I might do the power steering swap sooner rather then later but as of right now I dont mind driving it manual.

Thanks to Chop Shop for the tech info, I am swaping front brakes over to a vented FJ60 rotor and a newer 2nd gen 4cyl caliper. Taking the time to clean and paint things that are rusty and lube everything with new grease. I plan to pull the knuckles off and to inner axle seals and longfield wipers. I am also in the process of doing the wabfab hub refresh myself.

Oh and I am painting these nasty wheels all black! :awesomework:

Maverick26 said:

I am also in the process of doing the wabfab hug refresh.

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You didnt send him any money or parts did you? He is a waskily wetard. Seriously.

There is NOTHING to buy to rebuild/clean a hub.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wab...abfab+problems&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official

DONT send anything to that guy. I can help ya refurb those hubs if ya run into problems.

No no, Im doing them myself. Just kinda fallowing his steps. Not much too them at all, just cleaning and relubing everything. They had froze up on me in the FREE position. The O ring was all nasty and kinda acted like glue. I did order new O rings and sring and detents (I lost one, went shooting accorss the shop) from Marlin yesterday along with all the other stuff.

Also, what are the main hub bodies made of? Are they SS? I got a bit of rust on them and cant get a wire wheel in there to clean them up. THinking about sand blasting them then a quick coat of clear.

I got a leaky rear half moon on my head, kinda noticed it when I was under the rig doing fluid change on tranny. It drips when truck is running. Gonna have to look into that. Im assuming this can be done with relitive ease from under the hood? I already had the VC off to do a valve adjust. Not sure who rebuilt the motor but he was not a very good motor guy.

Maverick26 said:

I got a leaky rear half moon on my head, kinda noticed it when I was under the rig doing fluid change on tranny. It drips when truck is running. Gonna have to look into that. Im assuming this can be done with relitive ease from under the hood? I already had the VC off to do a valve adjust. Not sure who rebuilt the motor but he was not a very good motor guy.

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They come in the valve cover gasket kit. I usually apply a thin film of silicone to the half moon

Got a little more dont last night, the cleaning really sucks thats for sure. Im not used to this barfield/closed knuckle crap! Im waiting on parts to show up so its a good time to clean everything up and do some painting I guess.

As for repacking the birfs and bearings im assuming any bearing/multi purpose grease will work. I dont want to start a Tranny Frank thread fight or anything just making sure I dont need anything speacial. Of course what was in the knuckle looked like someone ate at a taco truck and then **** through a screen into my knuckle. I have that blue marine grease I always use on bearings and stuff so I assume that is ok to use on the birf? Also, if anyone wants to take the time to teach me the right way to repack a knuckle/birf that would be cool too. I dont think the knuckle has to be packed full of grease does it? Just the birf and the trunion bearings?

Im so ****in new..... to toyotas.

As you can see in the first pic my front springs are quite flat if not inverted a bit. Can I hybrid these with something I can find at a junk yard to perk them up a bit? The truck does sit low in the front. Think leveling kit kinda. Not really a lift. I know rear springs are used a lot, what about a single leaf out of a 2wd pack?

Dont pack that knuckle FULL.

With Marlin seals and Bobs wipers, you wont want a knuckle full of goop.


JUst pack the bearings with your blue goop. The birfs like a MOLY grease.


Easiest way to pack,,,, trunions, by hand. The birfs, take a spring bushing that will press into the birf star and will fit a grease gun tip and pump it full.

If ya know someone with a broke inner axle shaft, you can take the broke stub end (or if its broke at the fat end cut off the other end about an inch long) and drill it and tap it for a zerk fitting. Then just press in the axle stub and grease the zerk till grease comes out all six ball grooves.


Done!

Hubs are NOT stainless, just normal steel. That rust wont clean up completely. Its from folks running those chrome hub ring/trim center caps.