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Help settle this Cold verses hrew question

pachary said:
Manually bend the same size HREW and then DOM.

There will NEVER be another question in your mind about them. I know you asked about hot and cold HREW, but this is almost as bad as folks bitching about park fees. If you are going to take the time and effort to design and fab something, a couple extra dollars for the "right" material ain't gonna break you. I did use HREW for interior braces, but would not even consider it for anything else on a cage/buggy.

If it does you are pursuing the wrong hobby.

Nailed it.
 
Randys Rock Rods said:
The biggest noticeable difference i've seen between the two is, after a rollover, HREW will 'flatspot' alot easier than DOM. An HREW cage will hold up structurally fine, if it's built right. But if you want a chassis that won't look like its 10yrs old after a year of beating on it, spend a little extra coin and get DOM.

I 100% agree with this. My current buggy started with HREW, then I added/ finished with DOM. I have had to repair HREW sections after a roll.
My new buggy is all DOM.
 
Is DOM stronger? Yes
Will a well built HREW cage hold up for the average trail rider/weekend warrior? Yes, but DOM is a better option still despite the cost.
Will this thread turn into a **** swinging competition of engineering knowledge? Most likely Yes.
 
Randys Rock Rods said:
Actually, HREW is made from a lesser grade steel-1010
DOM is made from 1020, which has a higher tensile strength and resist more against bending.

The biggest noticeable difference i've seen between the two is, after a rollover, HREW will 'flatspot' alot easier than DOM. An HREW cage will hold up structurally fine, if it's built right. But if you want a chassis that won't look like its 10yrs old after a year of beating on it, spend a little extra coin and get DOM.
I buy 1020 HREW all the time. I've bought 1020 and 1026 DOM. I prefer 1026. I've not asked for HREW over 1020, dont know if its out there.

Lickliter21 said:
Weight also. DOM lighter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you thinking of Chromoly? It is literally the same material, Drawn Over a Mandrel. Literally the same ****, just cold worked after being made. .120 thick 1020 all weighs the same.
 
blacksheep10 said:
I buy 1020 HREW all the time.

I've never seen it. Must be better availability in different locations tho. Most of the steel places around here look at you ??? when you ask for HREW, or DOM tube anyway.
 
kushKrawlin said:
So if one cant afford DOM Tubing they are in the wrong hobby. Interesting.



Yes he's right on this, If the extra 500 or so bucks is a deciding factor then when you start building a serious rig you are going to **** when everythime you turn around it's a thousand here thousand there, and anyone with a buggy knows this is true. That being said hrew will hold up fine to most people, there is a lot of very high dollar rigs that I know of that are believed to be DOM but are actually tube. And no one has mentioned that either, you can get pipe, dom and tube which has a welded seem but od is measured just like dom.
 
Randys Rock Rods said:
Actually, HREW is made from a lesser grade steel-1010
DOM is made from 1020, which has a higher tensile strength and resist more against bending.

The biggest noticeable difference i've seen between the two is, after a rollover, HREW will 'flatspot' alot easier than DOM. An HREW cage will hold up structurally fine, if it's built right. But if you want a chassis that won't look like its 10yrs old after a year of beating on it, spend a little extra coin and get DOM.

This guys speaks the truth. I had a buggy that was originally built from HREW. All the reworking I did was DOM. I rolled it several time and after a few years you could tell which pieces were DOM and HREW by the dents.
 
Re: Re: Re: Help settle this Cold verses hrew question

blacksheep10 said:
I buy 1020 HREW all the time. I've bought 1020 and 1026 DOM. I prefer 1026. I've not asked for HREW over 1020, dont know if its out there.

Are you thinking of Chromoly? It is literally the same material, Drawn Over a Mandrel. Literally the same ****, just cold worked after being made. .120 thick 1020 all weighs the same.

I concur with all this.

I also prefer using 1026 DOM, it usually has a real nice smooth finish with no mill scale at all, and doesn't dent easily, but have used everything from black pipe, high pressure seamless pipe, HREW, DOM, and even some chromoly (drops from a sae mini Baja) when putting a rig together

KGS steel in Nashville knows the difference and keeps common roll cage size in stock.


Chromoly of the same size will be pretty much the same weight also.
 
Stretch said:
Is DOM stronger? Yes
Will a well built HREW cage hold up for the average trail rider/weekend warrior? Yes, but DOM is a better option still despite the cost.
Will this thread turn into a **** swinging competition of engineering knowledge? Most likely Yes.
Hahaha. Well i can assure u that was not my intentions. I was just wondering out the coldrolled and why it wasnt used, that i ever read about anyways. The guy at the metal shop ask why I didn't use coldrolled when i was purchasing metal, and it threw me for a loop. I can also assure you My dumb ass will not be in the competition due to lack of knowledge. I knew that if I asked on here someone would explain it where I would understand, stead of needing a dictionary beside me or someone telling me to search.. So basically what i got out of this is yall dont think Sched 40 from home depot is the ticket?? :woot: haha. On a serious note Thank you all for the info fellas. Didnt mean to start anything im just dumb and eager to learn . thumb.gif
 
kushKrawlin said:
So basically what i got out of this is yall dont think Sched 40 from home depot is the ticket?? :woot: haha.

Hey now. my last one (Single Seater) was built out of pipe. But, it was virgin pipe, never had any **** run through it.
 
Oblate now wasn't knocking it. I have some On my rig! And dont give a dam either.. Falling off of a mountain on my roof absolutely.. Rolling it once or twice nope.. Im not tryin to do either but if it happens so be it.. Hopefully I will stop pursuing the wrong hobby before it happens. ;D Very doubtful
 
My cage is built out of HREW and I'm assuming my sliders are too. My sliders are gettin beat up pretty bad and I have a bar in the bedside exo cage and a roof bar across the front of the passenger side that are both bent. The roof bar got bent from 2 full rolls off of an obstacle. The side bar is bent from rubbing up against ****, and sliders are self explanatory. It still all is structurally sound, but cosmetically flawed from being bent. With that said, HREW is plenty strong enough, especially for crawling....but for the bending part, it's easy to see where dom benefits.

Like was mentioned before - If I was starting from scratch, the extra money that dom costs would far outweigh having a bunch of "raisined" tubing after a few years of hardcore crawling. At the end of the day when it's time for resale, nobody wants something that looks like it's been run through the mill and bent all to hell, even if it is mechanically good. Some may disagree, but cosmetics play a huge part of resale, even in the crawler world. You will lose more money with a raisined up rig than what the dom initially costs.
 
TacomaJD said:
At the end of the day when it's time for resale, nobody wants something that looks like it's been run through the mill and bent all to hell, even if it is mechanically good. Some may disagree, but cosmetics play a huge part of resale, even in the crawler world.

As much as I hate it, this is true. Everyone is embarrassed to buy a beater. Unless it's Tim Hardy's Samurai. I love that thing
 

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muddinmetal said:
Not to derail, but have you rode with him much? I always wondered what it would be like to wheel with him down here

Once at Morris Mountain at last years Ultimate Adventure. Not impressed. Spent a lot of time putting tires back on rims due to no beadlocks.
 
JohnG said:
Once at Morris Mountain at last years Ultimate Adventure. Not impressed. Spent a lot of time putting tires back on rims due to no beadlocks.

I watched that YouTube segment of the UA... I thought :wtflol: :gtfo:
 
JohnG said:
Once at Morris Mountain at last years Ultimate Adventure. Not impressed. Spent a lot of time putting tires back on rims due to no beadlocks.

I was wondering about that... **** all that trouble. I'd run 15 lbs if I had to to keep from being a hinderance
 
Re: Help settle this Cold verses hrew question

pachary said:
Manually bend the same size HREW and then DOM.

There will NEVER be another question in your mind about them. I know you asked about hot and cold HREW, but this is almost as bad as folks bitching about park fees. If you are going to take the time and effort to design and fab something, a couple extra dollars for the "right" material ain't gonna break you. I did use HREW for interior braces, but would not even consider it for anything else on a cage/buggy.

If it does you are pursuing the wrong hobby.


I've had a violent roll in my .120 wall DOM buggy and will use .188 on the hoops and lower/perimeter tubes next time........

Why stop at changing from HREW to DOM... maybe "DOM" isn't enough and you should be looking at all chromo (yeah, I know the different manufacturing and materials, but it's what people normally call it)
 
JohnG said:
Once at Morris Mountain at last years Ultimate Adventure. Not impressed. Spent a lot of time putting tires back on rims due to no beadlocks.
Same thing happened the next day at River Rock.
 
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