GM Code P1345

I just had P1345 code come up on my 1999 Denali. Now I have done some research and I have found that it may be a worn distributer gear. But the code states that its a Cam to Crank malfunction. Just looking for some Ideas on what it could be .

if i am not mistaken... a 'cam to crank' error would have to be something along the lines of a timing belt/chain. if it has too much slack it would allow the two to turn slightly different (one lagging slightly behind the other)

only thing i can think of off the top of my head...

I have some notes at work--will give ya the needed info in the am

Problem code

Thanks

Could be couple different things...Loose rotor, or distrib itself is lose or and has changed time, bad crankshaft sensor, to much play in timing chain. Did you have any work does recently??

As I thought (not a common code)

Here are possabilites (typical)

1) the crankshaft coralation variation setup has not been ran(procedure we have to do with the tech-2)
2)intermintent cam sensor
3)intermintent crank sensor

just what id say asap.. cam or crank sensor. very common, i had 3 last week just replace it, and clear the codes. its not the dist/ or timing gears, if it was YOUD KNOW

(i double checked it on my MODIS and its just the sensor, nothing more).

Not making progress on P1345

It finally stopped running. It ran great then I went in to buy tabs and came back out and it wouldn't start, just turns over. So I have replaced the cam sensor, crank sensor, new cap and rotor, checked the distributor gear looks brand new. I have spark and will be checking to see if I have enough fuel pressure, the pump is turning on but I am not sure how much pressure I have. Any other Ideas of what it could be? I was wondering about the ignition module? next to the coil. I am not sure exactly what it does but I thought it had something to do with the injectors and spark? Please advise

hoss250 said:

It finally stopped running. It ran great then I went in to buy tabs and came back out and it wouldn't start, just turns over. So I have replaced the cam sensor, crank sensor, new cap and rotor, checked the distributor gear looks brand new. I have spark and will be checking to see if I have enough fuel pressure, the pump is turning on but I am not sure how much pressure I have. Any other Ideas of what it could be? I was wondering about the ignition module? next to the coil. I am not sure exactly what it does but I thought it had something to do with the injectors and spark? Please advise

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Get a can of starting fluid. Remove the inlet at the throttle body. Open throttle body and spray in for about 4 seconds. Reinstall everything and see if it starts and runs for a few seconds. If it does you either have a bad fuel pump or no injector pulse.

I bought a fuel presure test gauge and it is getting 0 reading. Which is wierd because I swear I heard the pump running earlier. So is it the pump or something else telling the pump not to work.

hoss250 said:

I bought a fuel presure test gauge and it is getting 0 reading. Which is wierd because I swear I heard the pump running earlier. So is it the pump or something else telling the pump not to work.

Click to expand...

Nope--dead pump--not surprised either. But hold your knees--those fuel modules are not cheap.

crash said:

Nope--dead pump--not surprised either. But hold your knees--those fuel modules are not cheap.

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On the 99's, does the pump actually die? I know they're different than the one I replaced in my 96, but I found out afterward that a majority of those failures were attributed to bad connections at the plug interface. Since I had saved the old one and was curious, I cleaned up the contacts and bench tested it. It worked just fine.

64FJ40 said:

On the 99's, does the pump actually die? I know they're different than the one I replaced in my 96, but I found out afterward that a majority of those failures were attributed to bad connections at the plug interface. Since I had saved the old one and was curious, I cleaned up the contacts and bench tested it. It worked just fine.

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Yes we have seen a bunch of failures like that eric---those pumps run at a constant 10 amps and with that all you need is a poor contact.

if you look at the pump on a waveform pattern you will see (most times) a bad pattern when the pump gets warm. The armature wires start shorting when the heat causes the wires to expand. This increases the amperage and causes contact failures.

You can predict most pump failures by pulling the pump fuse and putting a lab scope in its place and watching the pattern when warm.

View attachment 9521




Correct fuel pump service on these vehicles requires a somewhat different approach with using:
1. Current Draw
Current draw may be viewed using the fuel pump test connector hooked with a jumper to battery positive and measured either using a multimeter or a current probe. We prefer to use the low current probe and view not only actual current draw but view pump waveform to confirm pump condition as well (see Figure 4).
2. Fuel Pump Pressure
Fuel pump pressure may be tested as usual (remember the tight specification shown above) and should be checked for pressure as well a leak down rate (see Figure 3).
3. Fuel Pump Volume
Fuel pump volume may also be tested using a conventional method of XX amount of flow in XX amount of seconds but we prefer to use the latest volume meter showing actual flow through a meter to determine the actual volume of the pump in gallons per hour - this unit must exceed 0.5 U.S. gallons per minute under all test situations.
This case study displayed good pressure and poor volume. Volume should be 0.5 gallons per minute for these vehicles.
4. Fuel Pump Current Waveform
Figure 4 shows a very good pump with a very smooth repetitive brush contact with motor commutator. Experience is required for this type of testing, but again, knowing what to look for is the key as well as viewing many pumps in your day-to-day service of vehicles.
Our experience has shown that this is the most correct method of analyzing the overall pump condition and determining, beyond a shadow of doubt, that the pump module does in fact have a problem and require replacement.

Thanks for your help. I will replace the pump tonight and go from there hopefully thats the problem.