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Rapid flashes indicates the computer sees nothing wrong. The sensor coming out of the EGR valve is the EGR temp sensor. That sensor has nothing to do with driveability or starting.

The coil is good.

There is no crank position sensor on the 3VZ-E. The timing can be off 180* if it has been screwed around with. Remove the upper timing cover to check for cam timing and t-belt tension. Once the cover is off you'll be able to time the distributor too. Have you checked the ignition coil's resistance?

Check the ohms on the ign coil. They tend to fail in a way that still allows them to make a spark in the air when you pull the wires, but don't have enough juice to light up the spark plugs.

The sticker sets that thing off! I like it.

Cut the trans tunnel out and make a new one. That's way easier than putting on a shitty body lift.

ASE Certified Master Tech chiming in here. I'm out here in Wenatchee and I specialize in the 3VZ engine. Let me know if you're interested. I have about 300 references available.

Ah, someone that knows more than me. Thanks for chiming in. That does make some sense though. I've known that the 4-conductor system, if used in the aforementioned way, does leave open the possibility of a dangerous situation occurring. But, I always figured it was one of those one in a...

Protip: If you do branch 110v circuits off a 220v circuit, make sure you do it with a 4-conductor cable.

Damaged input shaft perhaps? Does the rhythm of the knock change only with engine speed? If so, input shaft is a likely point of failure. In my experience, it's rare for bearings to make knocking sounds. I suppose they could if left to fail for long enough. But, you'll probably have much bigger...

SDORI's 1.5" ball joint spacers increase the avaialble suspension articulation if you're running an 86-95 IFS vehicle.

It is non-interference. However, I recommend treating it as if it were an interference motor. I have seen enough carbon built up on the valves/pistons to turn these into interference motors. The 88-92 3VZs are manually tensioned, the 93-95s are hydraulic. They're ezmode. Nothing to it.

The 1990+ 3.0L is the shittiest engine Toyota has ever produced. Compare it to the rest of the offerings from other manufacturers at the time though and the 3.0L wasn't so bad. I'll still take the 3.0 over anything else produced during that time. CHOP SHOP: The early production 3VZ-Es destined...

Haha. My love of the 3.0 is only because I make a lot of money on them failing.

I love the 3.0!!!!!!

What the hell is a wrench doing welded to the spring hanger in the second picture?

It's a marking device used by mechanics and rebuilders. The center of the heat tab is filled with something that melts away if the engine is overheated. That way a warranty can be denied among other things.

Perhaps I should rephrase my question. Why are you so pissed off?

So what? You have a heat tab. Heat tabs can be on anything from rebuilds to just repairs. Sometimes junkyards will slap them on their engines even though there's no warranty. Why are you so devastated that the engine you have has possibly been remanufactured?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_VZ_engine http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_MZ_engine http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_GR_engine Those three links will lead you to the three families of gasoline V6 engines made by Toyota. Engines from different famliies are for all intents and...