Finished my brakes tonight... Dual piston Ford D60 calipers up front, half-ton GM front calipers out back, '86 E-350 master cylinder on a stock '91 wrangler booster. The fronts run from one solid line down to the axle, then hard lines out and stock F-350 soft lines to each caliper. The rears are stock chevy soft lines up to the frame on each side, with a single hard line back to a T in the rear tub.
I figured I'd start simple and run no prop valve and see how things felt. I'm happy with how the brakes operate right now... rears lock up at the same time as the front testing them out in the snow-covered street. After I wheel it some I may add an adjustable prop valve for the rears if I feel it needs it.
However, the pedal is still very spongy after bleeding and bleeding... I bench bled the MC, then started from passenger rear to driver's rear, passenger front, driver front. I'm pretty convinced I got all the air out... I get a nice solid stream out of all four calipers.
Opinions? Do I need a bigger/better booster (I believe this is a single diaphragm one vs. the later dual diaphragm). Do I just need to pump the **** out of them and see if I can squeek out a little more air?
I figured I'd start simple and run no prop valve and see how things felt. I'm happy with how the brakes operate right now... rears lock up at the same time as the front testing them out in the snow-covered street. After I wheel it some I may add an adjustable prop valve for the rears if I feel it needs it.
However, the pedal is still very spongy after bleeding and bleeding... I bench bled the MC, then started from passenger rear to driver's rear, passenger front, driver front. I'm pretty convinced I got all the air out... I get a nice solid stream out of all four calipers.
Opinions? Do I need a bigger/better booster (I believe this is a single diaphragm one vs. the later dual diaphragm). Do I just need to pump the **** out of them and see if I can squeek out a little more air?