PORTER
Well-Known Member
That right there should say it all.
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
12v or 24v ?
- Thread starter 421
- Start date
You sure about 12 valves having no cracked block's?
I have not heard of it being an issue, even with the 1998 12v motors built with the "53" blocks.
Maybe there have been some 12v motors cracking blocks under extreme HP and abuse or something, but it is certainly not common, nowhere near the problem the 24v motors have had.
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
You can't even say that the block cracking is an issue.. It's so rare that it really should have no bearing on what truck you buy.
It is the year of the CR.. They are one bad MOFO. 12 valves still make more hp then anything else, but they are tempermental when you start climbing too high and can't be used for "everything" anymore. Of course I'm talking about more then most people on here will ever go after.
It is the year of the CR.. They are one bad MOFO. 12 valves still make more hp then anything else, but they are tempermental when you start climbing too high and can't be used for "everything" anymore. Of course I'm talking about more then most people on here will ever go after.
PORTER
Well-Known Member
Well said Jeffro, what I commonly see here on this board is people will give a biased opinion based upon what they got and nothing else. There are very few here that have been there and done that enough to give you 100% accurate info. Thats what the big diesel boards are for Right, but again I am with you on the CR motors thats why I own one:awesomework:
I will own a CR 24 valve some day... but my VP44'ed 24 valve does just fine after upgrading the fuel system and replacing the dead injection pump, plus it's nice to be able to turn the power UP when I want to play, and down when I want to tow or just don't want the attention that comes when rolling coal at every intersection.
My next truck will most likely be a mildly turned up 12 valve, as it will be all I can afford after selling the '02 and buying a house. :eeek:
My next truck will most likely be a mildly turned up 12 valve, as it will be all I can afford after selling the '02 and buying a house. :eeek:
Are CR's even part of the original poster's discussion? The 12v vs 24v debate revolves around the 2nd Gen trucks. When I was first looking into to getting a CTD I did quite a bit of research and came to the conclusion that it was either going to be a cash purchase for a 2nd Gen 12v or finance a new 3rd Gen CR. Since I want a truck to use as a truck and not worry about scratching or denting something I was still making payments on, the older truck made more sense and I was able to find one that I liked and met my needs at a pretty good price.
The 24v is nice as far as being adjustable on the fly. But it seems that while modifications can be made to reduce the chance of lift and injection pump failure, nothing can make the VP44 truly reliable.
A cracked block ALWAYS sounds like a pretty substantial issue to me and I would rather not chance it as the truck ages. Statistically, the KDP is a non-issue as well. So why worry about it, right? I think the cracking "53" blocks will also become more of an issue as the trucks get older. I don't think the 24v motors are piles by any stretch of the imagination, I just do not believe that overall they will prove as reliable and long lived as the P-pumped 12v motors.
The 24v is nice as far as being adjustable on the fly. But it seems that while modifications can be made to reduce the chance of lift and injection pump failure, nothing can make the VP44 truly reliable.
A cracked block ALWAYS sounds like a pretty substantial issue to me and I would rather not chance it as the truck ages. Statistically, the KDP is a non-issue as well. So why worry about it, right? I think the cracking "53" blocks will also become more of an issue as the trucks get older. I don't think the 24v motors are piles by any stretch of the imagination, I just do not believe that overall they will prove as reliable and long lived as the P-pumped 12v motors.
Last edited:
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
Because it's a tad easier to prevent than a cracked block.
It's easy to avoid a cracked block, too. Buy a 12v.
The 24v motors are prone to both the KDP and the cracked "53" blocks. Sounds like a win-win situation to me! :haha:
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
well the KDP is a LOT more common then the cracked blocks.. and Cracked blocks are not limited to the 53 block. Plus you can always P-Pump a 24 valve.... They all have their ups and downs. It's a cummins truck, you're going to be happy. Unless you're a whiney little fawk like me and want everything.. heh.
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
Oh and also.. KDP was more of an issue with the 12 valve... Same with the cracked exhaust manifold.. And if the manifold didn't crack, it does shrink and can pull the ears off the head. Then you're fawked.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Exactly why I asked "why"--- I wanna see why--not opinions..
Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Engines aside, generally speaking you will be getting less miles on the rest of the truck with a 24 vs a 12. To me the counts for something as well. Just depends on the buyer.
I personally know 2 people that have had cracked block's on their 12 valves, and I'm not too into the diesel world, so statistic's don't look too good to me. I think all the up's and down's have been touched on, IMO a 12 valve is the smarter buy if only sizing up 2nd gen's. Though the smarter way to go, no repair's are "required" on a 12 valve, yet on a 24 valve you are guarenteed to be replacing the VP44, and are an idiot if when doing that job to not do an inline pump as well. With truck's having no warantee the 12 will be the better performer and cost less cash out of pocket in the long run. take you're 12 valve 5 speed cummins you're an air filter, cam plate and exhaust away from 300-350 reliable, useable horsepower, replace the $100 cam plate with a $600 dollar box on a 24 valve, a ???$1200 VP44, and a $500 pusher pump, converience is one your side, but I feel you have less useable horsepower, and computer bullshit that is common to go bad.
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
$100 on a plate? wtf? people pay for those?
I just swapped out my 10 plate for a 105.. holy CRAP what a difference! It did so much better on the bottom end that I was able to stick my larger delivery valves back in and not worry about smoking everyone out with normal driving.. woohoooo.
And yea, if you're just wanting 300-350 then the 12 valve is cheaper and more reliable. That's not enough for everyone though.
I just swapped out my 10 plate for a 105.. holy CRAP what a difference! It did so much better on the bottom end that I was able to stick my larger delivery valves back in and not worry about smoking everyone out with normal driving.. woohoooo.
And yea, if you're just wanting 300-350 then the 12 valve is cheaper and more reliable. That's not enough for everyone though.
I guess you've forgotten what that power feel's like, it's not really that bad, and why do you need to go faster than 70 up any mountain pass in this state.
Fullywrecked
Well-Known Member
What the hell is a 105 plate?
Fullywrecked
Well-Known Member
Bacause Jeff doesn't have a wheeler, so he sinks his cash into his cummins. If he would stop doing that he could afford a wheeler on a budget.:corn:
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
it's a beautiful day outside. Quit trying to make me cry.
350 felt awesome when I first had it. Then I was pushing my foot through the floor wanting more. It wasn't really for towing purposes. I'm just trying to hotrod a diesel for some dumbass reason. Of course now I've hit another brick wall and need to unload my tranny.
105 plate is for us special people. We'll see how it does on the dyno this weekend. It dropped Mike's hp down a little, but his torque went way up with it.
ok the cr motor what year did it come out whats so baddass about it?
