another thread: fullwidths vs toyotas

[Chevyjoe]

i was plannin on buildin a fullsize dual purpose rig but after seeing what fullsizes look like after they come off the trails in washington, my plans have changed. the new plan is either a toyota or sami. i already have fullwidth axles (d44 and 14bolt) that i was plannin on runnin. a lot of guys have told me this is the wrong way to go though and say i should run toyota axles as i wont be able to fit on most of the trails in washington? then again ive also heard a toyota or sami on fullwidths would work great in the snow. whats your guys opinion and why? thanks

specs (depending on rig):
engine - 4 banger
tranny- 5 speed
tcase - duals or 6.5:1
tires - 36-40s
gear ratio - 5.29 or 5.38

 

[trailyota]

I run 2.5" spacers with 2.5-inch reversed backspaced wheels on my 81 1st gen pickup. My width is 79 inches to the outside of my boggers, and I fit just fine. That same setup is going on my 88 4runner now, with future plans on adding 3" to the long side of the toyota axles for more stability + the spacers....

-hope this helps-

 

[Damnyankee]

full width axles on skinny rigs work fine.

its the full width axles on full width rigs that take a beating.
some people dig body damage

 

[Pook]

full width axles on skinny rigs work fine.

its the full width axles on full width rigs that take a beating.
some people dig body damage

This isn't always true.

Wide axles on a skinny rig can get you hooked up in the tree's pretty bad. Sliding on the rocker tubes doesn't work as well when your tires stick out that much farther than the body.

My new rig is 76" outside to outside...my ftoy was 76" outside to outside after its last rebuild(5" wider than stock toy axle with 3.75"BS wheels) ...and I don't think I'd ever want to be much wider than that.

On a Skinny, low rig why would you want to be any wider?

 

[Damnyankee]

This isn't always true.

Wide axles on a skinny rig can get you hooked up in the tree's pretty bad. Sliding on the rocker tubes doesn't work as well when your tires stick out that much farther than the body.

My new rig is 76" outside to outside...my ftoy was 76" outside to outside after its last rebuild(5" wider than stock toy axle with 3.75"BS wheels) ...and I don't think I'd ever want to be much wider than that.

On a Skinny, low rig why would you want to be any wider?

Your right, it isn't ALWAYS true.

but if you look at our trails, its true alot of the time.

take a look at a fullsize rig around here.. body is BEAT TO ****.
But the skinnier guys come out with only few scratches and whatnot.

I do agree with you that if your tires stick out too far from the body, they tend to HOOK.

There is also a difference in widths on a full size rigs.. like a chev D60 from 1980, and a ford D60 from the same era, the chev is a couple inches wider.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

I used to run yota axles and with ifs hubs, spacers and diy beadlocks it was 81" bulge to bulge and it worked well. currently I'm 91" on full width 'tons. The "hook" factor on tree's is used to my advantage on super tight trails like rimrock. Go full width, you'll like it.

 

[Pook]

I used to run yota axles and with ifs hubs, spacers and diy beadlocks it was 81" bulge to bulge and it worked well. currently I'm 91" on full width 'tons. The "hook" factor on tree's is used to my advantage on super tight trails like rimrock. Go full width, you'll like it.

ARBS and cutting brakes are alot more effective for hooking things than width.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

ARBS and cutting brakes are alot more effective for hooking things than width.

Neither of wich I have so guess what I use.... :flipoff:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I used to run yota axles and with ifs hubs, spacers and diy beadlocks it was 81" bulge to bulge and it worked well. currently I'm 91" on full width 'tons. The "hook" factor on tree's is used to my advantage on super tight trails like rimrock. Go full width, you'll like it.

Your truck might work on your side of the state, but it has more limmits than capabilities on the wet side.

I cant imagine your rig at elbe or evans. Sounds like a frustrating, long, tree molesting day.

Just build a CHEAP toyota and see what you like youself.:beer:

 

[PUO-BANNED]

You can run hummer beadlocks with some mods to the kuckles/steering arms on a D44 this will get you close to toy width. with a 60 you can just buy the arms and bolt them on, the drawback is the hub sticks out.

I agree with trashy, the width can be an advantage but it takes a different driving style in the tight trees :redneck:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Your truck might work on your side of the state, but it has more limmits than capabilities on the wet side.

I cant imagine your rig at elbe or evans. Sounds like a frustrating, long, tree molesting day.

Just build a CHEAP toyota and see what you like youself.:beer:

You're right, I've never been to either of those places and knowing what they are like I know better than to go there with my truck. I wouldn't say I'm limited though, I never wanted to there even before I went wide.

 

[Digger 5]

You're right, I've never been to either of those places and knowing what they are like I know better than to go there with my truck. I wouldn't say I'm limited though, I never wanted to there even before I went wide.

I can't believe you do Rimrock at 91" wide. I'm 76" outside and it's much tougher to fit than it was with my old narrow track CJ. Hell, there are some places that my 76 inches are wedged in tight. Rimrock IS wider than it was when I first started going there in the late 80's but 91"?

So YOU'RE the guy that made the bypass on Louie Way????:fawkdancesmiley:

 

[Maverick26]

I know a guy that has a 47' Willys flaty and he has a 14b and a 60 up front. I suggest getting rid of the 44 and going the same rout with a 60. He cut them down and has 2 sets of tires both 38s. One set is on 5.5"bs rims for street use and one is on 2"bs rims for offroad and snow. The short side on the 60 is to the point that there is about a 1" piece of tube showing so he could get weld in there and the U bolt and thats it. I think in the end you will get about 8 or 9 inches nerrower then full width.

Chevy WMS is 69.5
Dodge WMS is 67.5

Im not sure what a toy WMS is but if you narrow a 60 8" it should be around 60".

 

[Mark m.]

If your going to build a toyota why would you want to use a D44 frontenduke:

 

[nevada]

my newest build will be a toy on full size.

with the right wheels, i should be able to get within an 1" of my current yota.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

I can't believe you do Rimrock at 91" wide. I'm 76" outside and it's much tougher to fit than it was with my old narrow track CJ. Hell, there are some places that my 76 inches are wedged in tight. Rimrock IS wider than it was when I first started going there in the late 80's but 91"?

So YOU'RE the guy that made the bypass on Louie Way????:fawkdancesmiley:

I ran pucker, leaning tree, swamp creek etc with dirk, porter and robin a looong time ago, no problem even with my long wheelbase.

I ran all over rimrock memorial weekend without many issues at all. Just gotta be creative, no bypass's allowed or needed. Gotta remember my wife owns ORV trailwatch, how bad would I look tearing the place up? :;

 

[Clark]

if you have a small budget, use toy axles. If you have a large budget use 60's. everyone with toy axles wants wider, 60's want narrower. Also longfields are only $600 a set of superiors is $2000. You could have a nice toy for $2000:kissmybutt:

i think it's less about where you'll be driving and more about how much $$ you want to spend. I was never limited by by 4runner, it went anywhere.

 

[crash2]

One thing about these threads--everybody is right :haha:

You have to look at the variables. What is the rig going to be used for and what general area is it going to be used. How is the rig setup. What type of steering are you going to use..

I have found if you can get your rubber to rubber width around 78-80" you can run most anything in this state and down in cali. Of course with width you have options of different offset wheels to accomondate what rubber to rubber width you are looking to hit.

For some a 44 will work--for some they won't. For some a toy will work--for others it will not.

One thing to be said about a 60---its the last diff you will ever have to buy.....

 

[Clark]

i was plannin on buildin a fullsize dual purpose rig but after seeing what fullsizes look like after they come off the trails in washington, my plans have changed..............

specs (depending on rig):
engine - 4 banger
tranny- 5 speed
tcase - duals or 6.5:1
tires - 36-40s
gear ratio - 5.29 or 5.38

Sounds like a toyota to me:awesomework:

 

[Maverick26]

One thing about these threads--everybody is right :haha:

You have to look at the variables. What is the rig going to be used for and what general area is it going to be used. How is the rig setup. What type of steering are you going to use..

I have found if you can get your rubber to rubber width around 78-80" you can run most anything in this state and down in cali. Of course with width you have options of different offset wheels to accomondate what rubber to rubber width you are looking to hit.

For some a 44 will work--for some they won't. For some a toy will work--for others it will not.

One thing to be said about a 60---its the last diff you will ever have to buy.....

Very true... Its up to the driver/owner to really decide. We chip in our .02 when people ask. I know Joe and he is a good guy, I think a nicely build Toy will be good for him. If he runs toy axles for a few years and runs into some money later he can alway upgrade to 60s if he wants. Its cool to be young and have the ablity to learn and grow with you rig as you upgrade it.