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cage mounted windshields

Hip

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from another thread...

i am tired of breaking windshields from bending the frame, i plan on building a windshield into the new cage. interested to see if any other jeeps have done this before and of sop links to the pictures.

my plan is to build the cage through the body and weld the existing sheetmetal frame into the cage so wipers and defrost still work. i also plan on making it so i can use a stock windshield and gasket as they are still fairly reasonable in price.

the windshield will not fold down it will be permanent.

any suggestions or ideas?
 
Good idear HIP... Moving my post over here...

So far, I think my frame will consist of some 2x4x.120 box tube for the bottom (with wipers, but no defrost vent), and 1.5x.120 DOM for the rest. It will bolt to the stock location, AND bolt to the cage in three places (top center, and at the upper corners). The glass will be glued in like a modern setup. I am planning on using nothing from the stock frame except the wiper setup.

I'm going for bomb proof this time :D
 
I also will not be using stock glass, because part of my problem is that the top corners of the stock frame stick out like ears, and they get caught on trees when reversing.

My frame will be the same width as the cage, so no more ears. This requires a custome shape, and custom cut glass to match.

That's OK though, because custom glass is cheaper than pre-cut :D D&D Glass in Sultan cut and installed my last windshield for about $60.
 
Thats easy but the cage will need to be forward enough to land where the windshield was or its going to look goofy.
I know I could do something like this If I can do it to a toy..
 
A guy in our club has tapered his CJ5 window frame inwards and cut new glass. He gets off camber and hits his roll bar before crushing the glass/frame. No more "ears" and it still folds down or removes. Only thing he needed to modify his soft top.
 
I like the idea hippy.....

Could be goofy.....but you could build the frame setup to set the windshield and the extreme inside of the tube....closest to the center of cab.....so not only is the tube to the outside of the glass, but also in front of it....


or........


LEXAN BABY....

--B
 
lexan is more expensive than the regular glass but my glass is broken now so who knows. the reason my glass broke was like glen said i made it past the tree then the motor dies and on the 1" or so or roll back the frame caught the tree and flexed the corner of the frame forward. it held right until i got the winch cable almost hooked up then it popped. lexan would have not broken.

i think i can make the frame with 2" A pillars which go will straight back and then cap them with the intricate shaped 1 1/2" top A crossbar. then the plan it to grind away any part of the frame sheetmetal until it fits into the space i made from tube. if that becomes too difficult then i might go glens route. only i want to maintain defrost. rocky gets all wet and foggs up my windows.

like mike said my new A pillars and upper crossbar will be relocated to exactly where the windshield sits now. i plan on drilling thru the body and going right behind the dash with the A pillars.

as it is now the cage makes it difficult to do any behind the dash work and the new setup will make that easy again.

any one seen this done before on a heep? pictures?
 
Hip said:
if that becomes too difficult then i might go glens route. only i want to maintain defrost. rocky gets all wet and foggs up my windows.
I'm really starting to think my plan will be fairly easy. I don't need defrost (tops are for pussies :flipoff: ), but adding it would just be a matter of cutting a few more holes. no biggy.
 
Comet said:
A guy in our club has tapered his CJ5 window frame inwards and cut new glass. He gets off camber and hits his roll bar before crushing the glass/frame. No more "ears" and it still folds down or removes. Only thing he needed to modify his soft top.


I'll try to post up a pic tonight, I've a digi camera now. Yes I tapered my windshield in so that the outter frame is inside the rollbar. Only the hinge locations take any hits now, I lost aboout a 1" of upper visibility. I can only run a bikini top though, full doors don't fit tight, I just bungee them on for winter runs.

Works really well for me, I used to either have to fold the windshield down or take it off for Rimrock, or Big Creek runs. Big Creek is what drove me to make this mod, I was folding both corners over the rollbar everytime out.
 
id be interested in seeing your design.

mine comes of real easy under 2 min but i actually like having one for most occasions. the problem is its the obstacle you have made hundreds of times and then it just slips a little and then its too late. well the barrel roll was a whole nother story:D

im just gonna make one that can take at least a minor roll.

its only time
 
When I smashed the hell out of my old Jeep windshield frame, I bent up a new frame out of rigid conduit and welded that to the lower box of the old frame. Everything is tucked inside the cage and I can still use the bikini top. The conduit kept it fairly light for easy install/removal. When I want to run it on the road, I swap to a stock frame and throw on the full top.

I'll see if I can find some pics and get them posted up.
 
tapered windshield frame pics

I've taken some pretty good hits and it held up fine so far;



 
well i started the process and it aint gonna be easy. the windshield is wider than the space allows for the 2" tube i wanted to use. if i use 2" it will have to be bent out slightly then back in and back, i dont think the bender can do an opposite bend that tight.

i punched a hole in the dash the only place i could put it, so it is as wide as the tub will allow and i need another half inch.

im still thinking about it...:censored:
 
wish i could see the windshield frame in the picture posted, got any other angles or close ups?
 
zip said:
I've taken some pretty good hits and it held up fine so far;




Heck--that thing has been that way for HOW long?? I remember many a moons ago I think not too long after you did that and yes--its held up nicely...
 
Yes, it has been awhile since this was done, gosh it's been over ten years now. Anyways here's some more pics, if there's a specific view or angle wanted let me know and I'll try. I'll be taking it off for painting here soon so I'll try to get some pics then if you want.







Hope this helps, it's worked great for me for MANY years now. Just a stock CJ frame cut down is all, any glass shop can cut the glass, it's flat
 
thanks for the close ups.
i can see how that would eliminate the two corners catching trees.

how much was it to have the glass cut down?

im gonna try to do two real tight reverse bends to see if it is possible to squeeze a piece of 2" by the widest part of the windshield tonight.

if it cant be done then ill just built the cage the way i want it and have a piece of glass made 1" narrower...
 
It was several years ago when I got the glass cut by Speedi-glass in Renton, cost less than $100. It's been awhile but, it wasn't very costly, and they did it while I waited. The lower windshield area seems to be the strongest location due to the hinges, felt no need to try and narrow that area. If that's what you're trying to figure out, I can understand the head scratching, good luck
 
well after a few attempts i decided to abandon the idea of bending the cage around the windshield as i cant do the reverse bend tight enough. i tried it with some 1 1/2" and could do it but no way with 2".

So narrowing the existing frame down and custom glass it is. like someone mentioned custom glass is cheaper than stock.

the plan is to cut 1" exactly out and patch it back together. this will mean shorter connecting rod for the passenger side wiper. should be easy enough...:D

anyone know the trick to remove the old glass? it appears its glued from the outside only and im thinking slow steady pressure against a board to spread the load to the glass?
 
What I usually do to remove glass is get one of those cable PVC pipe saws at Homey Depot for $2.00 or what ever they are. Remove one hand then fish it through the rubber. Put leather gloves on and work your way back and forth around the glass. Takes some time and you will have to get used to some weird angles most likely. I'd take the frame off the rig and set it on edge between your legs and work your way around, flipping it so the side you are working on is always up. But that kinda depends on the angle you need to work at.
Another thought is since you are tapering the frame, go ahead and cut the top ends out about where you think they will be tapered. I'd use snips once you got close to the glass. Take the middle section out and the rest of the seal should come out easy.
 
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