crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
:awesomework::awesomework: Make some noise Chris 
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Chris's toy (Sandtrap1986)
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Looking at your pictures you have a fancy oil stick where did you grab that from? Might help mike with the relocation of mine
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I think so Chris--I am trying to do some research and see :awesomework: Stay tuned :redneck:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Probably a Lokar dipstick.... Very simular to whats on your tranny...
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
i will get one for ya make it easy :awesomework:
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
or something similar :redneck:
wheeler4x4samota
Well-Known Member
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I was right....:redneck:
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So I finally found where I want the new fuse block and relays to go and a good spot that can be accessed(fuses) and not be kicked.
I ended up making a bracket that bolts to 2 studs that are there for if the rig had AC and then the relays bolt to that. The fuse block will bolt to the heater system on the part that goes between the blower and heater core cases..
I ended up making a bracket that bolts to 2 studs that are there for if the rig had AC and then the relays bolt to that. The fuse block will bolt to the heater system on the part that goes between the blower and heater core cases..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So Chris dropped off a battery so why not get the cables done up.. I won't do the cable down to the starter till we get the header problem resolved.
But both main power and grounds are done.. You can see how I like to have all the grounds connected at the same points...
I don't know how long its been but there are electrons flowing thru the rig and I can do a couple circuit checks and then carry on with getting the relays and fuse block done up..
But both main power and grounds are done.. You can see how I like to have all the grounds connected at the same points...
I don't know how long its been but there are electrons flowing thru the rig and I can do a couple circuit checks and then carry on with getting the relays and fuse block done up..
wheeler4x4samota
Well-Known Member
mike are you using solder terminals for your main power and ground?
they make the connection look nice just hope he never gets a battery wire hot.
I had the solder fittings on my winch once and as soon as it got hot it turned the solder into liquid.
but this was when the winch fried so the lines were really hot I just haven't trusted them since
they make the connection look nice just hope he never gets a battery wire hot.
I had the solder fittings on my winch once and as soon as it got hot it turned the solder into liquid.
but this was when the winch fried so the lines were really hot I just haven't trusted them since
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Been doing these this way for close to 15 years with not a failure but yes they are fully soldered--I have a technique that I use and has never failed me. If a solder joint fails before the insulation burns off then its due to a bad soldered joint... The same can be said for any wire..
If a wire is going to get that hot its going to blow the insulation off it and you will have far worse problems.
But to date close to 80 cables done this way and none have failed--I trust my work fully and back it up fully :awesomework:
WA-Wheeler
Well-Known Member
My rule of thumb is that anything over 8 gauge should be pressure crimped by a large compund crimping tool with a good crimped end on it, especially on battery terminals. Smaller stuff will burn up before the solder melts.
wheeler4x4samota
Well-Known Member
Oh i complete faith in your work mike I was just curious. like i said mine didnt melt until the winch fried and the insulation was melting aswell.
Im good at wiring aswell but your wiring makes mine look like crap so your kinda my wiring idol lol
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok Chris I have had a chance to do some reading. We will need the top one that threads onto the existing mechanical sensor. Since your rig is a v6 it doesn't use a speedo cable and this sensor was designed exactly for your application (gear drive t-case). I still have to do some reading on how to take the signal from that to the GM VCM but I will get that figured out...
Plus I found the connector on your old harness thats supposed to fit that sensor and just a matter of running new wire down/out the cab--no biggy....
Sandtrap1986
Well-Known Member
Ordered :thumbup:
just a thought on how you do the grounds, wouldnt it be beter to go from the bat to the frame, then branch out from there rather than a chain of connections?
your connections are good now, but down the road once corosion gets a chance to get in, your looking at 4 connections currently to get to the block, if you went to the frame, then branched to body/block etc you would never be more than 3 connections away from the bat. this would also help eliminate potential ground loops and noise.
your connections are good now, but down the road once corosion gets a chance to get in, your looking at 4 connections currently to get to the block, if you went to the frame, then branched to body/block etc you would never be more than 3 connections away from the bat. this would also help eliminate potential ground loops and noise.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok so I got some prep work done. So as I stated earlier I was going to use the 2 connectors that go from the body harness to the old engine harness..
So I got all circuits marked and pulled all un-used wires removed.
C1 is the grey connector.
Circuits that will be used.
Black/Red wire--Ignition feed (comes directly from the ignition switch)and will be using it for all the engine feeds.
Purple--SES lamp feed. This GM VCM controls the lamp the same way toyota does in it just toggles the ground for the lamp.
Black/Green wire--Battery feed. This feed comes from the EFI fuse so its a fully fused circuit. Will be using it for the VCM B+ feed and diagnostic port
C2 is the white connector
Circuits that will be used.
Yellow/Blue--Oil pressure sensor
Yellow/Green--Temp sensor
Black--Tach. I will see if I have to do a modification at the tach to make it correct once its up and running.
Green/Red--Speed sensor
Green/Blue--Speed sensor
Black/Orange--Speed sensor
I am going to pull the 3 speed sensor wires from the connector and go to the other side of the connector and tie into the circuit there. Since on the OEM harness those wires went down the back of the motor I am going to run new circuits down the body harness where it drops thru the cab to the frame.
So I got all circuits marked and pulled all un-used wires removed.
C1 is the grey connector.
Circuits that will be used.
Black/Red wire--Ignition feed (comes directly from the ignition switch)and will be using it for all the engine feeds.
Purple--SES lamp feed. This GM VCM controls the lamp the same way toyota does in it just toggles the ground for the lamp.
Black/Green wire--Battery feed. This feed comes from the EFI fuse so its a fully fused circuit. Will be using it for the VCM B+ feed and diagnostic port
C2 is the white connector
Circuits that will be used.
Yellow/Blue--Oil pressure sensor
Yellow/Green--Temp sensor
Black--Tach. I will see if I have to do a modification at the tach to make it correct once its up and running.
Green/Red--Speed sensor
Green/Blue--Speed sensor
Black/Orange--Speed sensor
I am going to pull the 3 speed sensor wires from the connector and go to the other side of the connector and tie into the circuit there. Since on the OEM harness those wires went down the back of the motor I am going to run new circuits down the body harness where it drops thru the cab to the frame.
