The knuckles should be the same, unless your going from drum to disc.
The knuckles aren't the same. Even DB 75's (and up through '78) have the smaller bolt pattern for the steering arm. Very few options for aftermarket steering arms, and the smaller, weaker birfield.
Don't get birf-eliminators. If you really must upgrade, go for Longs. If it were mine, I'd just run the FJ60 birfs until I felt the need to drop $600 on Bobby's set. You will have to do some grinding on the end of the axle housing to fit them in.
Read up here:
http://internet.cybermesa.com/~chscully/front_discs.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/frontdisc/frontdisc.html
Really the only difference between the FJ60 swap and the mintruck swap is that the FJ60 rotors are thicker and vented versus the solid truck rotors (and the calipers are slightly bigger to compensate). The knuckles are identical.
Did you buy your knuckle rebuild kit yet? I highly recommend Kurt at
www.cruiseroutfitters.com
I agree with Tankota about the gearing - stick with 4.10s. Not enough gain for the investment of going to lower R&P. Plus, if you ever screw up a diff, they're relatively cheap to just swap another stock one in rather than rebuilding with expensive aftermarket parts.
As far as tranny swaps, spring over and shackle reversal, more info than you probably need here:
http://www.ih8mud.com/cruisertech.php
For me, the minitruck DB swap and GM rear disk swap (I did them at the same time) were probably the best 'driveability' improvement I've done to my Cruiser yet.
Eric