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Ford 6 litre help

Its spendy, but the correct fix is not entirely unlike fixing an old yugo...

Basically, you remove the stock radiator cap, followed by pretty much the entire engine and computer system.

Then you install a nicely modified cummins motor and associated hardware.

Re-install the stock radiator cap and drive it forever.

My dad has a six-point-oh no its broke again, and is constantly calling me with little issues and I keep telling him to sell it and by a 7.3 motored truck.

and yes, working on a powerstroke (any of them) without a computer and live scanner is almost a sure fire recipe for insanity!
 
We have seen a crank no start with seeing a rpms and it was the fan hub sensor. Caution they are not cheap. It was still under warr. so I don't know how to check it Sorry!!!!!!!!!!
 
I doubt it's the issue, but have you by chance tried a different key yet (I believe the Stupid Duties have the rf chip key like the Expeditions).
 
Cranking rpm... but do you have 500psi or more hpop (ICP value), and what % is your IPR at? FICM sync? more then 10.5 M power (weak batteries?) and 47.5/48 V for your FICM? 55psi FP at the filter housing? Getting any smoke?

Give me a call, hope I can help.
 
I have a really nice reader by Mac that gives me some very limited data. Once I get something to read data Both Chad and Ben have offered help. So once I get that taken care of I will be jiggling some minds for info...:awesomework:
 
Ok so I have only been able to touch this here and there.

I have no codes setting from just cranking. Also on the gauge it builds oil pressure quickly..

I know not having a scanner is slowing this process down...
 
the oil psi guage is an "idiot" guage, and will tell you nothing about what the HPOP is doing...
 
Yes, in ford's infinite wisdom they attach an oil pressure gauge to a oil pressure switch. Cheap fawkers. Same with the trans temp gauge hooked to a temp switch.

Anyways, like Kevin said you need to know what the high pressure oil is doing and the gauge only indicates lube pressure.

At this point a scan tool that will show live data is your next option w/o blindly swapping parts or tearing it down.
 
So I have the tooling to finally continue with my diagnosis. Hope to get back into it in the next couple days...
 
Ok so did some reading and there was reference to the FICM voltage dropping. At first it would drop to 38 volts. I did it again and it dropped to 20 volts and a P0611 set.
 
FICM likely took a chit...Double check all the connections in that they aren't bad (coolant bottle is right above the damn thing...:D) , obtain a pinout of the FICM, and verifiy the power and grounds are good......
Smack its ass and see what happens! :haha: (reference to the early GM ecm's!!! :redneck:)....
 
I would recommend Swamps Diesel if you are going to have repaired, good guys and they know their chit. If I remember right they even have a link to the Ford FICM test procedure to really confirm your problem.

If it's a bit under 48v it will start but run chitty until warm. When you get below 40v they barely will make smoke. Sounds like you found the issue.

Make sure the Batteries and cables are good, most FICM failures are a result of starting w/ low batteries or bad connections.
 
Well for giggles I removed the FICM and tore it apart and looked at the problem areas indicated in the first URL I posted. One resistor was smoked and the other fell off. So ya I am pretty certain I found my problem.

Chad do you have a link?
 
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