• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Helpful tips for building a bouncer

Lots of good info in this thread. It's no coincidence most everyone is on the same page with their advice. Think about that for a while. Good luck either way, make sure you start a build thread if you dive in balls first on an all out buggy build!
 
jccarter1 said:
Ok I understand the thoughts of wanting to build your own rig that is the reason I built my own rig but building a rig is less about fab skills and more about understanding how everything needs to work for it to be a good performance rig anyone can throw some tubes together to look a certain way but to make it work and not spend a ton of time or money to redo stuff is where it pays off to wheel a bunch and understand what you want and what you would need to build a rig that has those features. Not trying to talk you out of it bc it is cool to build something from the ground up and know that you are the one who made it but what it sounds like is you like the idea of a bouncer but you dont know what small details it takes to build one and the details is what makes a good rig
You're prolly right, I know it'll be a whole new ball game for me, and I know I'll have a lot of lessons to learn.. And whoever said I'm prolly wanting to build more of a buggy than bouncer is prolly right too.. Basically I'm wanting to build my own tube chassis, with a decent 4 linked platform underneath and roughly 400 horses to push it.. Now I've got a lot more details in mind besides that but whether that makes it a buggy or bouncer, whatever... I'm not trying to be competition by any means, just want something I can ease around with if I need, and mat it and hit something nasty when I want! From what research I've done so far, it seems that the suspension setup and geometry plays a pretty critical role in how it all performs, and I intend on doing plenty of homework before just throwing something together! There will be a build thread when the time comes, may be a while tho.. and as far as overtime goes that's no problem! Already having to work 7 days a week right now, found out today I'll even be having to work thru thanksgiving.. Yaay lol! But hey guys I appreciate your opinions and info, giving me plenty to think about!
 
Last rig I built, I bought a running rig that had lots of good parts. I started building the other one while I wheeled the donor. Got all the tube, seats, sheet metal work/drivetrain mounted (using mock up stuff) and set the general location for the link tabs all while being able to measure off the donor and wheel it. Then I yanked it down for the transplant. It was sure a cheaper way to buy the parts too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Doesn't sound like you are going into this completely clueless. Nobody here is saying it can't be done, some have done it. But there is A LOT to take in to be prepared to tackle it all without fawking up and throwing away a bunch of time and money.

And fawk working 7 days a week and building a buggy in spare time, I'm too lazy for that **** haha.
 
Fwiw, I was in a similar predicament. I thought I wanted a straight up "bouncer" but as I started building on a chassis I bought, I realized that I really just wanted a capable trail rig with bouncer styling. I feel like I ended up with the best of both worlds. Some guys started throwing around the term "trail bouncer" and I kinda think that is what I would say I came up with. I also jumped in with no real experience in building something like that. I think as long as you don't expect to finish overnight and accept the fact that there will likely be more to do/buy than you expect, you'll be fine. I took nearly 2 years to get mine on the trail and still have to tear down for paint. Here's my build if you're interested. http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=42737.0
 
wrenchbender said:
You're prolly right, I know it'll be a whole new ball game for me, and I know I'll have a lot of lessons to learn.. And whoever said I'm prolly wanting to build more of a buggy than bouncer is prolly right too.. Basically I'm wanting to build my own tube chassis, with a decent 4 linked platform underneath and roughly 400 horses to push it.. Now I've got a lot more details in mind besides that but whether that makes it a buggy or bouncer, whatever... I'm not trying to be competition by any means, just want something I can ease around with if I need, and mat it and hit something nasty when I want! From what research I've done so far, it seems that the suspension setup and geometry plays a pretty critical role in how it all performs, and I intend on doing plenty of homework before just throwing something together! There will be a build thread when the time comes, may be a while tho.. and as far as overtime goes that's no problem! Already having to work 7 days a week right now, found out today I'll even be having to work thru thanksgiving.. Yaay lol! But hey guys I appreciate your opinions and info, giving me plenty to think about!


I missed you will. How is the family?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Beerj said:
Fwiw, I was in a similar predicament. I thought I wanted a straight up "bouncer" but as I started building on a chassis I bought, I realized that I really just wanted a capable trail rig with bouncer styling. I feel like I ended up with the best of both worlds. Some guys started throwing around the term "trail bouncer" and I kinda think that is what I would say I came up with. I also jumped in with no real experience in building something like that. I think as long as you don't expect to finish overnight and accept the fact that there will likely be more to do/buy than you expect, you'll be fine. I took nearly 2 years to get mine on the trail and still have to tear down for paint. Here's my build if you're interested. http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=42737.0
I think this guy gets it for sure! "Trail bouncer"... I like it! Lol read thru your build thread too, super nice rig man! Great job on the build as well! So, is it pretty much everybody's consensus that the gm 14 bolt is a far better option than a Dana 60 for the rear? I'm going front steer only and the reason why I ask is I can get a whole truck pretty cheap with Dana 60's front and rear with the np205, but if I'd be far better off to do a 14 bolt rear I may just forget about that truck and cruise the junkyards.. I still got access to a divorced np205 regardless long as that'll be capable enough for what I'm wanting to do..
 
Re:

I've saw 60 rear stock shafts break in places toyota rears probably wouldn't break. Haha.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Re:

TacomaJD said:
I've saw 60 rear stock shafts break in places toyota rears probably wouldn't break. Haha.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Plus you'll get better pinion support and easier gear set up with the 14 bolt. Throw a shave kit on there and you have equal clearance.
 
I copied some of goat builts numbers for the subframe on the rig I'm working on now. Not sure how it's going to turn out in the end, but if I was going to do it over again I'd atleast start with his subframe kit and build up from there if it's your first time doing a link suspension.
 
Re: Re: Helpful tips for building a bouncer

whiskeymakin said:
I copied some of goat builts numbers for the subframe on the rig I'm working on now. Not sure how it's going to turn out in the end, but if I was going to do it over again I'd atleast start with his subframe kit and build up from there if it's your first time doing a link suspension.
Good advice. I did just this for the manche. I had built enough link suspensions to know what geometry I wanted. So I used Goatbuilt blueprints to run my numbers long before I bought the first tube. You can't not buy his subframe for what you can do the research and buildtl/trial and error your own for, it's a no brainer. His geometry is targeted for 110-118wb.

After purchasing, I put together his kit with my power train and axles attached before I cut the first tube for the chassis. If you want optimum performance you must build around the optimum suspension.

fcb662157536f65224e6d962c956c5e5.jpg
3497a700cf6378d738ac961d528440fc.jpg
5dc8b7e5a9fb84e7758c884a2f29bf9d.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
redneckengineered's tips for building a bouncer:

-Build a chassis with tubes in places that make no sense
-Make sure visibility from the driver seat is terrible
-Shortest loudest headers imaginable. The louder it is the more HP you will make.
-Tiny fuel cell that assures you'll never actually have to do any real riding, just shoot hills within 500 yards of your RV
-Zero storage for tools or a cooler
-Extremely cramped driver and passenger compartment
-Most uncomfortable seats made
-As little headroom as you can get away with
-Stock cam + tune LS motor, make sure you know a guy that knows a guy with the same cam that made over 600hp on a dyno
-Off the shelf bypass shocks
-hero t-case because you saw a guy on youtube break an Atlas once
-idiotic Monster jam name
-Register instagram and facebook pages under "idiotic monster jam name...racing"
-Only attend events where Madram and/or Busted Knuckle will be filming
-Never actually learn how to drive
-Bonus points if you skimp on all cooling functions so you overheat constantly
 
redneckengineered said:
redneckengineered's tips for building a bouncer:

-Build a chassis with tubes in places that make no sense
-Make sure visibility from the driver seat is terrible
-Shortest loudest headers imaginable. The louder it is the more HP you will make.
-Tiny fuel cell that assures you'll never actually have to do any real riding, just shoot hills within 500 yards of your RV
-Zero storage for tools or a cooler
-Extremely cramped driver and passenger compartment
-Most uncomfortable seats made
-As little headroom as you can get away with
-Stock cam + tune LS motor, make sure you know a guy that knows a guy with the same cam that made over 600hp on a dyno
-Off the shelf bypass shocks
-hero t-case because you saw a guy on youtube break an Atlas once
-idiotic Monster jam name
-Register instagram and facebook pages under "idiotic monster jam name...racing"
-Only attend events where Madram and/or Busted Knuckle will be filming
-Never actually learn how to drive
-Bonus points if you skimp on all cooling functions so you overheat constantly

-Build girlfriend EXACT same rig you have, so you can swap parts. :flipoff1:




ADMINISTRATOR
 
redneckengineered said:
redneckengineered's tips for building a bouncer:

-Build a chassis with tubes in places that make no sense
-Make sure visibility from the driver seat is terrible
-Shortest loudest headers imaginable. The louder it is the more HP you will make.
-Tiny fuel cell that assures you'll never actually have to do any real riding, just shoot hills within 500 yards of your RV
-Zero storage for tools or a cooler
-Extremely cramped driver and passenger compartment
-Most uncomfortable seats made
-As little headroom as you can get away with
-Stock cam + tune LS motor, make sure you know a guy that knows a guy with the same cam that made over 600hp on a dyno
-Off the shelf bypass shocks
-hero t-case because you saw a guy on youtube break an Atlas once
-idiotic Monster jam name
-Register instagram and facebook pages under "idiotic monster jam name...racing"
-Only attend events where Madram and/or Busted Knuckle will be filming
-Never actually learn how to drive
-Bonus points if you skimp on all cooling functions so you overheat constantly

[/END THREAD] :woot: :spin: :rolf: :rolf:
 
These are just my opinions, which dont mean much.
1. Make sure a bouncer style rig is what you want. They can look good, but most are not comfortable, and can be torture to try to trail ride in.
2. Although it can look cool make sure you have nuts enough to drive it, or it will all be a waste.
3. No offense but hill killing in a RZR is not in the same zip code as legitimately driving a bouncer "bouncer style".
4. Knowing how to weld and notch a tube is important, but being able to lay one out, fit everything in where it will work, making it comfortable and work, is another thing.

By no means am i saying you cant or shouldn't, but there is way more to it than you think.
It all looks easy till your standing there with a $2000 pile of tube and nothing else.
 
Top