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Helpful tips for building a bouncer

redneckengineered said:
redneckengineered's tips for building a bouncer:

-Build a chassis with tubes in places that make no sense
-Make sure visibility from the driver seat is terrible
-Shortest loudest headers imaginable. The louder it is the more HP you will make.
-Tiny fuel cell that assures you'll never actually have to do any real riding, just shoot hills within 500 yards of your RV
-Zero storage for tools or a cooler
-Extremely cramped driver and passenger compartment
-Most uncomfortable seats made
-As little headroom as you can get away with
-Stock cam + tune LS motor, make sure you know a guy that knows a guy with the same cam that made over 600hp on a dyno
-Off the shelf bypass shocks
-hero t-case because you saw a guy on youtube break an Atlas once
-idiotic Monster jam name
-Register instagram and facebook pages under "idiotic monster jam name...racing"
-Only attend events where Madram and/or Busted Knuckle will be filming
-Never actually learn how to drive
-Bonus points if you skimp on all cooling functions so you overheat constantly

laughing1 laughing1 laughing1 laughing1 laughing1

holy hell, nail on head
 
Screw this....
Let's get it on!!
Start bending some tube. Start with the windshield brow, everything else can be built around that, After all it is the most important visual aspect of any bouncer
 
Eddyj said:
Screw this....
Let's get it on!!
Start bending some tube. Start with the windshield brow, everything else can be built around that, After all it is the most important visual aspect of any bouncer
I'm partial to the grill/front area. If you start at the front you just work your way back from there
 
I like bouncer style buggies myself. I looked at WOD, but they were out of my price range and I didn't know partially committed was building stuff. My bouncer will have enough head room for someone 6'5 at least, that's more than enough for me. I have corbeau xp seats.

In the end get what you like the most, you can make a bouncer comfortable, and I would run full exhaust, open headers suck after a while.
 
redneckengineered said:
It wouldn't be a bouncer at that point. Refer to checklist above.
Haha, Well mine may be a trail buggy in a bouncer style chassis then. Because it will have a spot for a cooler, big comfy seats, full exhaust, and plenty of room. Can I name it "issues", that doesn't sound to monster jamish, does it?
 
BUG-E J said:
I'm partial to the grill/front area. If you start at the front you just work your way back from there

My old boss had a friend that built a street rod starting with a grill. Apparently it was a unicorn and he found it at a swap meet so he had the rest of the car built around the grill. $100K car built around a grill he bought for $250 at a swap meet........seems cool to me.
 
Pretty hilarious checklist! May not follow it exactly if you don't mind tho lol! Like I say I've still got some homework to do, and in my mind (may change at some point) I'm thinking I like the idea of starting with building my axles and center skid tub, then getting it all 4 linked together the way it needs to be for my geometry and wheelbase and build from there.. somebody mentioned buying the center section to do just that and I liked the idea of building it that way.. seems like a good starting point to me!
 
wrenchbender said:
Pretty hilarious checklist! May not follow it exactly if you don't mind tho lol! Like I say I've still got some homework to do, and in my mind (may change at some point) I'm thinking I like the idea of starting with building my axles and center skid tub, then getting it all 4 linked together the way it needs to be for my geometry and wheelbase and build from there.. somebody mentioned buying the center section to do just that and I liked the idea of building it that way.. seems like a good starting point to me!

Or just buy a base chassis that has a lot of the other basic homework done. Trust me...there will be TONS of work after that point to make it your own and get your feeling of building it yourself. The chassis is the easy part.

Lots out there to choose from!
 
You have to have on the table axles, rim and tires (close to size), drivetrain,driveshafts, Seats, pedals, steering, radiator, gas tank, coil overs before you bend any tube. Otherwise will just be wasting your time and have to go back and redo it. Starting with that subframe is a grate ideal.
 
TBItoy said:
Damn I was reading through the previous page thinking '"ima make a catfish comment at the end'....

molaugh


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wrenchbender said:
Pretty hilarious checklist! May not follow it exactly if you don't mind tho lol! Like I say I've still got some homework to do, and in my mind (may change at some point) I'm thinking I like the idea of starting with building my axles and center skid tub, then getting it all 4 linked together the way it needs to be for my geometry and wheelbase and build from there.. somebody mentioned buying the center section to do just that and I liked the idea of building it that way.. seems like a good starting point to me!

The whole Goatbilt kit concept is pretty cool, takes a lot of the guesswork out of a chassis build
 
wizzo said:
[/END THREAD] :woot: :spin: :rolf: :rolf:
Just noticed from your sig that you ain't too far from my neck of the woods! Small world! Lol you didn't by any chance have chuck davis to do any engine work did ya?
 
redneckengineered said:
redneckengineered's tips for building a bouncer:

-Build a chassis with tubes in places that make no sense
-Make sure visibility from the driver seat is terrible
-Shortest loudest headers imaginable. The louder it is the more HP you will make.
-Tiny fuel cell that assures you'll never actually have to do any real riding, just shoot hills within 500 yards of your RV
-Zero storage for tools or a cooler
-Extremely cramped driver and passenger compartment
-Most uncomfortable seats made
-As little headroom as you can get away with
-Stock cam + tune LS motor, make sure you know a guy that knows a guy with the same cam that made over 600hp on a dyno
-Off the shelf bypass shocks
-hero t-case because you saw a guy on youtube break an Atlas once
-idiotic Monster jam name
-Register instagram and facebook pages under "idiotic monster jam name...racing"
-Only attend events where Madram and/or Busted Knuckle will be filming
-Never actually learn how to drive
-Bonus points if you skimp on all cooling functions so you overheat constantly

laughing1
Nice list but for the OPs sake, in the real world Andrew you have a 100% legit Rock Bouncer now. A plush refined version with amenities but dont fight it. ;D If your not running .188 wall dom up top, that and your panels would stay jacked if you were always rolling down bounty hills. You and I both have been around before Rock Bouncer was even a term. If you wanted to strait kill crazy hills often with that thing as it sits now you could.

That just brought up a point worth commenting on. One thing to consider is exterior maintenance and protection. If you want to look good, a buggy grill/hood with panels or body rig with no Exo cage is where it is at. However, if you plan on wheeling hard enough to be on your lid much it gets extremely expensive to keep up or they look like a wreck. I see as many people that get a bare bones hill killer kind of like Andrew mentioned and hate it as someone that has to look good and gets tired of wheeling because they are scared to dent/scratch or tear up the body and light tube. Just something else to consider I didn't see mentioned.

For what you mentioned, I vote LQ4 6.0, th400, atlas, 05+ SD 60 front with some 2017 stock 1550 shafts, and a 14bolt. If budget permits, build the motor, put some rcvs up front and sticky tires.

My first recommendation is to buy a starter rig but you have a rzr to keep you in the woods and interested so that will help if you build.
 
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