High speed shocks?

[Maverick26]

So if you wanted to set up a rig for going fast thats loaded weight was 3100lbs with front and rear D60s, TR aluminum rims and 40s for unsprung weight reference. What shocks would you run? Coil overs, air shocks, Bypass, what kind of reservoir, brand, style, and what spring rate would you start with?

 

[Bunk1]

Im guessing this is a loaded question, As you most definately have already asked Jason C the question.

 

[Clark]

:stirpot::stirpot:how much $ you got to spend?

 

[CHOP SHOP]

so far the go fast combo Im ridin on are two inch FOAs and some chrome ranchos! Get movin or move over.:haha:

The buggy is on 18x2.5 SAWs. But I havent driven it.

 

[crash2]

Im guessing this is a loaded question, As you most definately have already asked Jason C the question.

Talk with jason--but bypass comes to mind :awesomework:

 

[Bunk1]

Talk with jason--but bypass comes to mind :awesomework:

Or resi's the size of folgers cans.

 

[Maverick26]

I have not talked to Jason yet. Just wanted to hear what you guys think.

I had in mind a KOH type of race that includes getin it in the sand and then being able to slow it down and have good crawling ability also.

What is a good "off the shelf" setup you would run? I know DSI is running Blackhawk resi's on his 9200s. I would like to start looking for some COs but I am lost when it comes to brand and style, valving, spring rate.. just thought we could start a thread with some GO FAST tech in it. :awesomework:

 

[Hellbilly]

I have not talked to Jason yet.

Start here! :awesomework:

What is a good "off the shelf" setup you would run?

Your not going to find any "off the shelf setup's" if you plan on running any comps and be competitive! We spent probably 8-10 hours tuning Ian's KOH car with Joel from bilstein! And the car still needs work IMO!

BTW Ian's running the same set up DSI was running before DSI got the new prototype bypasses on the rear of his car.

If it where me I would run bilsteins coilovers with blackhawks front and rear! :awesomework: If I ever finish my bravo this will be in the future plans for my car!

 

[Hellbilly]

Or resi's the size of folgers cans.

:masturbanana[1]:

 

[Money Mark]

Another KOH nut rider that lives in WA.....you want to race in "the desert" don't you?

Where are you going to do this "high speed" driving? What's "high speed"? 120mph? Whoops and bumps?

I do "high speed" driving every day out, I go wheeling. Sure my suspension is not set up for that and my airshocks don't like it.......but I'm doing it without desert shocks.......cause I don't live in "the desert".

Eastern WA is not "the desert". It's just dry dirt/gravel roads.

I guess I just don't get it.:scratchhead:

 

[boxboy]

I'll jump on the Jason train as well Ask Jason


then my picks:
Coil overs and bypass
then just a coilover
then an airshocks

It's only money but if the money wasn't an issue coilovers with bypass :awesomework:


I sure like these and I bet you could get the factory to set them up like jasons.

 

[Maverick26]

Start here! :awesomework:



Your not going to find any "off the shelf setup's" if you plan on running any comps and be competitive! We spent probably 8-10 hours tuning Ian's KOH car with Joel from bilstein! And the car still needs work IMO!

BTW Ian's running the same set up DSI was running before DSI got the new prototype bypasses on the rear of his car.

If it where me I would run bilsteins coilovers with blackhawks front and rear! :awesomework: If I ever finish my bravo this will be in the future plans for my car!

I agree that any just off the shelf setup wont be cometitive alone without lots of time tuning and valving. What I was more interested in is what is a good starting platform and it seems to be the Bilstein's are the way to go. I was unsure if any brand had the upper hand on tune-ability or any other useful tip that could help during the life of the shocks. I thought Jason was running Radflow's but maybe I am wrong. As for the KOH nut swinging... I really dont have any "plans" to race yet. Just doing some research.

 

[Clark]

The major benefit with the Bilsteins is the amount of time that has already been spent tuning them on S&N chassis and suspension. You could save hours of tuning and start in the ballpark based off of what Jason, Pook, DSI, and Ian have already figured out working with Joel from Bilstein.

Granted you will still need to fine tune them for your "car", but you will be far ahead of starting with another manufacturer. If you are serious about running KOH you may even be able to get some one on one time with Joel.

Also keep in mind you will need new upper shock mounts, new lowers in the rear, and about 5K for the shocks/coilovers.

Then you need to tune them. It's a HUGE investment, but worth it if you are serious about racing. If i was going to switch, it would be Bilstein, hands down.

Clark

 

[Hellbilly]

I thought Jason was running Radflow's but maybe I am wrong.

Yeah Jason is on Bilsteins!

BTW I forgot you're running a V6 so your not going to be an competition anyway :fawkdancesmiley:

Granted you will still need to fine tune them for your "car", but you will be far ahead of starting with another manufacturer. If you are serious about running KOH you may even be able to get some one on one time with Joel

Clark

We had are camp set up right where Joel was And let me tell you he is the man when it comes to customer service! He will help anyone even guys running the competitions brand of shocks. And it doesn't madder if your competing! If your running bilsteins he will help you just the same!

 

[chevota1]

just do a coilover from bilstien no need for bypasses and all that jazz unless you are running long desert sections with tons of whoops
plus you wouldnt have to rework your whole car or spend upwards of 7K for the shock setup in the pic above
just my .02

 

[82toyomud]

When it comes down to it all shocks are the same, the only differences are the quality in the machining and the quality of the springs used. Talking with Jason Pauly and looking at the insides of Fox's, Walkers, FAO's and SAWs' their all the same. If you can spend the cash to have the piston that is specifically tuned for your weight of car, motion ratio, and sprung/unsprung ratio then do it, but you can achieve the same quality of ride with a competitors shock with some extra tuning. I've taken shocks designed for a 2000 lb sand car and tuned them to work excellent on a 500 lb car, 400 lb car, and 350 lb car; then taken shocks designed for snowmobiles and tuned them to work in the desert. A shock is a shock is a shock.

 

[Joey1]

A shock is a shock is a shock.

LOL

Does that mean some rancho 5000's are just as good as a set of king triple bypasses?

 

[Bunk1]

LOL

Does that mean some rancho 5000's are just as good as a set of king triple bypasses?

Learn from him, Dont take what he says out of context. Its better for you.

 

[Maverick26]

Learn from him, Dont take what he says out of context. Its better for you.

Toyomud: You seem to know a bit more then I do about this stuff. I have only done a small amount of shock work on a dirt bike I had. I rebuilt the piggyback in the rear and after that tried to play with the valving but I dont think I ever got it right.
In the full range of a shock that is used for soking up woops should the valving be hard or soft in the begining, and as you move up the travel? If the car was going fast over woops the front end would hit hard first at the apex of the woop then would need to be soft enough to allow the axle to travle up and over without giving you the "pissed off donky" action. Also how should the rear be set up for this?

If anyone can help me ask this question that would be great cause I am unsure that I am using the right terms. Thanks.

 

[Jason C]

When it comes down to it all shocks are the same, the only differences are the quality in the machining and the quality of the springs used. Talking with Jason Pauly and looking at the insides of Fox's, Walkers, FAO's and SAWs' their all the same. If you can spend the cash to have the piston that is specifically tuned for your weight of car, motion ratio, and sprung/unsprung ratio then do it, but you can achieve the same quality of ride with a competitors shock with some extra tuning. I've taken shocks designed for a 2000 lb sand car and tuned them to work excellent on a 500 lb car, 400 lb car, and 350 lb car; then taken shocks designed for snowmobiles and tuned them to work in the desert.quote]

Some tuth.....

A shock is a shock is a shock.

BULLSHIT! a more realistic statement is "You get what you pay for".

Any major brand is going to work fine. No matter what brand shock you get your going to tune...... ALOT.... what you buy depends on what you want to do... bounce around at the dunes? or race 1000 miles. are you needing to dicipate heat... how much adjustability do you want... how good of a tune do you want to achieve. how heavy is your car. what travel lingths are you wanting. Do you have room for longer/larger diameter shocks. .. this is detrmined by your wallet/budget. Some brands offer technology that will supass others or be able to do things that give that particular brand of shock adjustability that no other brand can mimic or achieve. The common misconception is you can bolt on a set of bypass shox and go fast .... Not even close( prime example I would take a Bilstein 2.5" body RR shock over a FOA bypass) one is a better product even though the other has bypass tubes. But this is what people do. Pick the right part for your useage and application and go tuning..... and when you got it all tuned in.... than go and tune it again....and again or untill you say "fukit I am tired of taking my shox on and off and tearing them apart.