• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

High steer options...

Left hand bit and a GOOD ez out will work 99.9% of the time. I used to carry a cordless drill and all the crap to fix busted studs... Hell I still do for all my buddies that still run yota stuff. :flipoff:
 
spray some pb blaster in on the broken studs :awesomework:!! i have always used a small screwdriver,and big hammer.
i used to break my knuckle studs every time out! :mad: i then bought tg magnum studs(basicly arp). 2 years ago,and i have never broken one since... i check them all the time but stilll tight...i might do 5th stud upgrade not sure yet. i am running 37's,and am now locked in the front.
if you have tg high steer then you dont have to worry.. my buddy broke his studs a month ago,and when he tore into his front he found he bent one of the pins.. i reminded him they have no ? warrenty. he called them up,and they swapped out his arm...
 
I was going to get Six Shooters and ARP's but think now I'm just going to get ARP's and call it a day.

i second this. i have broken my fair share of knuckle studs like everyone else.

i was running 39.5/duals/locked F/r hyjro assist ect ect... put in a set of ARP and never had an issue after that, if you have the extra cash 6 shooters are bling, but no necissary unless maybe with full hydro
 
Thanks for all the info guys! I guess I will just wait to buy parts until I get home and can tear in to my knuckles... See just how bad it is.. Anyone have any tip/tricks to getting broken knuckle studs out?

I wopuldnt waste time on old broken ones. get a stock knuckle with good studs in it and do a 5th stud on it.

Notice the ones that are good at getting them out are always breaking them.

Once they get loose they eat on the cast threads in the knuckle untill a few of them are loose enough to break or pull out. It will keep happening if the hole has been wore at all. A stud is not like a bolt. A stud is great in cast iron so you can fully thread it in before any force has been put on an arm yet. Alot of times the loose ones will work the stud out of the knuckle a thread or two at a time and then when you tighten it back down more threads are sticking out of the nut indicating it isnt in the knuckle as deep any more. EVERY TIME A STUD IS THREADEDED IN OR OUT OF A KNUCKLE IS EATING SOME CAST THREADS OUT.:booo:

Helicoils suck asss too.

If a knuckle has been trashed, toss it, it will keep giving you hell till you get rid of it and get a virgin one.

A backwards bit and an easy out and a 4 new TG studs is more than a used virgin knuckle. a Used knuckle can easliy be found for 30-40 bucks here or on Craigs List.

TG studs are NOT ARP. ARP is a fastner brand, not a style of stud. ARPs are superior to TG studs.

A virgin knuckle and a 5th stud works in my shop everytime. I do this ALOT.:beer:
 
Last edited:
So what I'm getting out of this is that I need virgin knuckles with ARP studs and Longfields 5th stud???? This truck isn't built the most its going to be. Future holds Hydro as well as links.. Possibly 38's..

I don't enjoy doing things multiple times so I want to fix this with one shot. Thats why I am getting everyone opinions! You guys have all brought some good points to the table and its greatly appreciated!
 
i second what brad said:eeek::; once you break your studs in your knuckle the threads will never be the same inside the knuckle and will have a dentence to pull the studs out, get some diff knuckles

and make your own 5th stud:awesomework:
 
tg magnum studs are made by arp! they are made a 1/4 inch longer also,with an 8mm hex head for removal .. they are made by arp for tg,and are actually made stronger then the ones arp makes for fror..
i cant do the link my skills suck...
 
Last edited:
Top