Holy rippoff

[CHOP SHOP]

I am doing some fixing on the ol dodger.

It seems to have ate a dowel pin for lunch. Now it has the runs and shits oil all over.

So I tore it apart and it had a nice busted out timing case.

Off came the parts, out came the cam, in went the cam yadda yadda.

I must say I have never pounded wooden sticks into an engine that I wanted to run again. Then I can say I have never had to retrieve a stick that was busted off and stuck in a tappet under the surface of the head before.

Then after I thought it was all over I called the dodge dealer to get a price on the intercooler to intake tube hose. Its the 5 inch long chunk of laminated rubber hose that connects the intercooler to the intake plumbing on each side of the truck. These are 4 inches around and about 5 inches long, the dealer wants 150 for one and 200 for the other one!!!

HOLY ****!!:wtf:

Then for shits and giggles I figured I would ask the dodge dealer how much for a gear case before I drove to renton to cummins NW and picked one up. HOLY **** AGAIN!!!!! The dealer wanted $818 and cummins only wanted 288 for the updated version.

WOW!!! :wtf:

So if anybody knows where to get a pair of hoses to connect to the intercooler for REASONABLE money, post it up. Also need 6 valve cover gaskets too. :awesomework:

I am pretty good at setting pump timing now tho!:redneck:

 

[Avanteone]

Yeah, Cummins NW is always WAY cheaper than the Dodge dealer when it comes to Cummins parts. Sounds like you're having fun!

 

[SLIPPY]

im pretty sure i got some stock boots you can have...if i can use your wooden dowels i gotta put a cam in mine

the reason aftermarket boots are expensive because of the clamps. I had to buy a new hx40 style exhaust clamp....50 bucks! wow!

sucks about the dowel pin....

 

[SLIPPY]

...i may have some gaskets layin round to

 

[CHOP SHOP]

im pretty sure i got some stock boots you can have...if i can use your wooden dowels i gotta put a cam in mine

the reason aftermarket boots are expensive because of the clamps. I had to buy a new hx40 style exhaust clamp....50 bucks! wow!

sucks about the dowel pin....

I got twelve dowels for ya. They worked good. I was nervous, but it went cool.

I dont need the clamps just the boots. I noticed the passenger one on mine is almost rubbed through cuz the edge of the fenderwell has been rubbing it for ages. Its the lower passenger funnel shaped one.

I was thinking about cutting up an ol rubber boot (ya know for yer feets) cuz its about the right shape. Plus boots come in pairs, so I would even have a spare on hand too.:redneck:

PM me your number so I can snatch up tham boots and bring ya some motar sticks. :beer:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

...i may have some gaskets layin round to

I woulda traded ya out of them a few days ago.

I just got it all back together tho. I just need to set the valve lash and hook up the intercooler then I can test fire it.

If all goes well then Ill put the bumper on and radiator back in and its done.

(edit) if thems is valve cover gaskets them Im game. What kinda beer?:haha:

 

[SLIPPY]

253-261-7597

i have all the boots you can have watch ya want. Set your valves to 8(intake) 15(exhaust) you'll gain about 100rpm in spool-up. factory is 10 and 20. ill have to look around for some valve cover gaskets i used to have a much of them. I live in bonney lake by lake tapps

-danny

 

[SLIPPY]

the dealer wants 150 for one and 200 for the other one!!!

HOLY ****!!:wtf:

oh ****! i thought you were talking about the aftermarket heavy duty silicone boots! you can buy all 4 boots and 8 clamps for 200 bucks!

200 for (1) stock boot? what the hell :haha:

 

[zukkev]

Hehe...sounds like you're about done. Glad you got it together choppy! You ever figure out whether you can time it from within??? I honestly didn't think about it as I promptly crashed right after bs'n with you...and never gave it a second thought til you posted this---yeah I forgot you called!!!:redneck::haha:

 

[SLIPPY]

lost ya on the horn. Give me a ring tomorra morn the boots are waitin for ya and ill go dig for some valve cov. gaskets tonight

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Hehe...sounds like you're about done. Glad you got it together choppy! You ever figure out whether you can time it from within??? I honestly didn't think about it as I promptly crashed right after bs'n with you...and never gave it a second thought til you posted this---yeah I forgot you called!!!:redneck::haha:

I should sent ya another text about the time ya dozed off!

I thought about it but didnt have the balls to try it that way.

I was told by Slippy that guys are just turning it one tooth to get 3 degrees of advance. Too much advance will kill a head gasket tho.

But I dont understand how they are turning it one tooth? Ya cant pull out the cam or pump and turn it? I dont see how unless you pull the cam out an inch and thats more work than timing it the normal way.



Anyone know of a diesel shop that will advance a pumps timing for less than what a dial ind/timing kit costs? ($140)
http://www.shop.eatsoot.com/product.sc?productId=21&categoryId=9

 

[SLIPPY]

the powershop in enumclaw. 90 buck an hour. prob. 1 hour. skip it one tooth and youll be golden. advance your timing to 16-17*ish with a fuel plate mod and governor springs and a little wastegate tuning i think youll be a happy guy. Stock is 13ish degrees. headgaskets are known to blow over 17-18ish degrees. mines at 26 with headstuds and o-ringed head. but i blew the stock gasket at 18*....oh and im sure 70 lbs of boost wasnt helpin much either

 

[SLIPPY]

Ya cant pull out the cam or pump and turn it?

...ya i was talkin bout the pump. A pump basically looks like a motor. Theres a cam in it that runs the plungers up and down, like a crank and pistons. Same idea. By advancing the pump timing, your getting fuel to squirt out the injectors and into the cylinders sooner. The way I look at it is, 0* would be TDC for piston and plunger. 40*, piston would be at all the way down. after 40* and your rollin over backwards. Advanced timing is really only worth while if you have other supporting fuel mods. It will lower EGTS, but also loose turbo spoolage. If you use the dial method its based off of plunger/barrel #1. you also will have to buy a delivery valve socket(its like a 50 point socket or somethin) to take the holder off. 1st pull the injection line off, then the holder(with yer fancy socket) then comes the delivery valve and seat. then you will find the plunger where you can then hook up your dial and follow standard timing procedures.

suprised LJ hasnt chimmed in yet :haha:

 

[SLIPPY]

I was thinking about trying to advance it using the crankshaft like you were talking bout...but you would still have to dismember the injection pump. cranks gunna spin the cam and the timing gears...along with the pump

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I was thinking about trying to advance it using the crankshaft like you were talking bout...but you would still have to dismember the injection pump. cranks gunna spin the cam and the timing gears...along with the pump

of course you would do this when the gear is pulled loose from the pump.


I still dont understand how to "skip a tooth". Ya cant pull the pump with the gear on it.

 

[zukkev]

I should sent ya another text about the time ya dozed off!

I thought about it but didnt have the balls to try it that way.

I was told by Slippy that guys are just turning it one tooth to get 3 degrees of advance. Too much advance will kill a head gasket tho.

But I dont understand how they are turning it one tooth? Ya cant pull out the cam or pump and turn it? I dont see how unless you pull the cam out an inch and thats more work than timing it the normal way.



Anyone know of a diesel shop that will advance a pumps timing for less than what a dial ind/timing kit costs? ($140)
http://www.shop.eatsoot.com/product.sc?productId=21&categoryId=9

:fawkdancesmiley:
Yeah, makes much more sense to do it externally than internally...most shops should be able to time it in about an hour.:awesomework:

 

[jrgaylor]

Here is your boots
http://sourceautomotive.biz/intercoolerbootkitfor94-02dodge.aspx
I also have the timing tools if you want to borrow them.

 

[SLIPPY]

of course you would do this when the gear is pulled loose from the pump.


I still dont understand how to "skip a tooth". Ya cant pull the pump with the gear on it.

theres a way to do it i cant remember how ill take a peak when i do my cam

BTW im not going to grahm today

 

[CHOP SHOP]

truck runs baddass so far. It didnt even crank over a full turn before starting. It was like I never tore it apart.

Radiator and coolant and Im on the road.


Anyone ever use the stock AC condensor for a tranny cooler?

I removed the AC pump and lines and related parts from the engine/truck. Garbage, AC is for bitches. It is more **** to fail, more **** to maintain, more **** cluttering up my engine compartment. Plus I hate the taste/smell of AC in a car. If its hot, my windows are down.

So the stock tranny cooler is kinda wussy lookin/sized. I already have a nice condensor mounted to the intercooler. Would it be worth it to plumb the tranny lines to the condensor instead?

Its ALLOT bigger than the stock cooler and its free and already mounted, any hangups anyone can think of? Why should I not do this?:corn:

 

[Moneypit1]

I removed the AC pump and lines and related parts from the engine/truck. Garbage, AC is for bitches. It is more **** to fail, more **** to maintain, more **** cluttering up my engine compartment. Plus I hate the taste/smell of AC in a car. If its hot, my windows are down.
:

You're nucking futs.