Little Gibby's 45 MB

Hip · Nov 30, 2008

crash said:
The reason for the style I have done(and one I prefer but tougher to do)--is transformation from A-C pillar--its a smooth surface from end to end---lets you slid down things alot better(like a tree)

looking great mike.

i call that the NW design exactly as mike stated to rub along stuff without getting hung up on it.

Hip · Nov 30, 2008

Thanks for the viewing pleasure i cant seem to get my back to stop hurting long enough to get a day in the shop.

thought id give this thread a rating. 5 : excellent

crash2 · Nov 30, 2008

Gibby said:
Yeah, brining a second tube out to the side with a kick out right in front of the rear wheel. It'd serve as a step as well. It's quite a hop up to get in that thing!

Here is my take on that dale.

Your going to find the narrowness of this rig a huge bonus--and quite frankly making it wider is going to ruin that. Dale I would consider leaving it as be--and try it and if its not what you want--then we can add the tube there.

But IMO the one aspect thats really cool with this lil rig---how damn narrow it is....

crash2 · Nov 30, 2008

Thanks brian/hippy. Just trying to do something diffent/nice...

Gibby1 · Nov 30, 2008

crash said:
Here is my take on that dale.

Your going to find the narrowness of this rig a huge bonus--and quite frankly making it wider is going to ruin that. Dale I would consider leaving it as be--and try it and if its not what you want--then we can add the tube there.

But IMO the one aspect thats really cool with this lil rig---how damn narrow it is....

I can go with that. It can always be added later. With my big rig, I RELY on those kickouts...

War-Jeeper · Nov 30, 2008

Dale these rigs are so narrow you will hardly ever rub anything, trust me i know hahahahaha, ive got sliders almost identical to these but there are square and the dont stick out more than a 1/4 in places and they work awesome!

Lookin good Mike as always!

pokey · Nov 30, 2008

crash said:
Thanks brian/hippy. Just trying to do something diffent/nice...

Oh sure.... ask a cople of questions and get labeled as a hater :booo:

crash2 · Nov 30, 2008

pokey said:
Oh sure.... ask a cople of questions and get labeled as a hater :booo:

Sorry jim--you too big fella.....

pokey · Nov 30, 2008

crash said:
Sorry jim--you too big fella.....

:haha: I feel much better now :cheer:

zukkev · Nov 30, 2008

Oohh, the love--how thick it is!!!:redneck::haha:

Seriously, Looks great Mike!!:awesomework:

BeatCJ · Dec 2, 2008

I just read through the entire build, pretty cool.

Have you got the tranny issue figured out? If not, I would consider going with a Jeep T-150 3 speed ('76 - '79). You can do it with all factory parts, and they're relatively inexpensive. The factory bellhousing used with the AMC 150 ci. 4 cylinder ('82-'86) has the B-O-P pattern you need. I believe it was available with a T-176, also matches the T-150. I 'THINK' the T-4/T-5 version has bosses cast into the BH, so even the that version would work. Sounds like you have a line on a Dana 20. It's about the same length as the T-90/D18 you already have, and even with the HP rear axle, driveline length is a premium. The adapted 4 speed is going to be longer, even with an SM420. Of course, it won't bother me if you ignore my ramblings.

crash2 · Dec 2, 2008

BeatCJ said:
I just read through the entire build, pretty cool.

Have you got the tranny issue figured out? If not, I would consider going with a Jeep T-150 3 speed ('76 - '79). You can do it with all factory parts, and they're relatively inexpensive. The factory bellhousing used with the AMC 150 ci. 4 cylinder ('82-'86) has the B-O-P pattern you need. I believe it was available with a T-176, also matches the T-150. I 'THINK' the T-4/T-5 version has bosses cast into the BH, so even the that version would work. Sounds like you have a line on a Dana 20. It's about the same length as the T-90/D18 you already have, and even with the HP rear axle, driveline length is a premium. The adapted 4 speed is going to be longer, even with an SM420. Of course, it won't bother me if you ignore my ramblings.

How strong of a tranny is that?

And thanks for the input :awesomework:

Freeride · Dec 2, 2008

T150s have a really tall first gear 2.99:1. Not particularly desirable.

jeepermc · Dec 2, 2008

crash said:
How strong of a tranny is that?

The T-150 came stock behind the 304's from 76-80 or so.... I ran one in my flattie from the age of 16 to about 27 behind a mildly built SBF 289... Never broke it and I beat the snot out of that tranny. Only downfall is no granny low. It never stopped me but I sure do love the NP435 that went in it's place.

Someone mentioned T-98's a couple pages back. Plenty strong transmission. Essentially the precursor to the T-18.

BeatCJ · Dec 3, 2008

Freeride said:
T150s have a really tall first gear 2.99:1. Not particularly desirable.

The T-90a has a 2.79 first gear. Not really a difference. I saw the model in the thread, the T-90c does have a 3.34 first, but they were fairly late.

jeepermc said:
The T-150 came stock behind the 304's from 76-80 or so....

I have never heard of a problem. The only stronger one is supposed to be the T-15, but it's bigger.

You know, I had a T90 in a '61 Willys Wagon, Chevy 250 six, 4.27s. It held up for me. It's NOT a bad tranny. That was 20 years ago, I wish I had kept the wagon after I blew up the rear end, if I knew then what I know now... I probably wouldn't spend money on a T-90 for this build, though.

Edit: Another thought, what about a T-14? It was behind the early Buick V-6's in Jeeps. Not a bulletproof tranny, but probably good enough with the high gears. Could be hard to find, though.

crash2 · Dec 4, 2008

Ok I am just putting along and kinda bouncing where my mind takes me...

So I went and bent the rear seat bar/B-pillar lower cross bar.

As you can see its bent to help let the seats slide back as far as possable/conform around them..

Now one thing I am really contiplating--and I bent the tube with this idea in mind. My idea is to notch the fender well on the inner/front edge to let the seats move back roughly 2.5 to 3" back. I know it doesn't sound like much--but with this rig thats alot really. The only problem will be boxing the cut area back up due to the staus of the sheet metal---so it might not be pretty if I end up doing it--but it will be pretty decent (some pretty thin areas in the sheet metal)

But I am pretty sure dale will say HELL YA make it happen,lol...

crash2 · Dec 4, 2008

I also bent a rear support cross bar between the C-pillars. This bar will serve a number of things. First being some more support for the c-pillars. I don't really trust the tub to hold the fuel cell down---so the cross bar is going to aid in that and it also will give a landing for some more verticle tubes from the upper cross bar

crash2 · Dec 4, 2008

So at this point I opted to work on the top of the cage. To help aid in more headroom--I chose to raise the upper B pillar cross bar roughly 1.60".

And I am just poking along now on the spreaders and have the last 2 almost ready to tack in...

Gibby1 · Dec 4, 2008

By the time Jackson is old enough to "legally" drive this, he'll probably be 6'4" and 250lbs so HELL YES!

Little bugger's just 7 years old, 4'9" and 97lbs. He's going to be a big one!

I'm not even sure that my butt will FIT in those little plastic seats. We'll need somewhat of a generic mount that we'll be able to substitute different aftermarket seats down the road.

crash2 · Dec 4, 2008

Gibby said:
By the time Jackson is old enough to "legally" drive this, he'll probably be 6'4" and 250lbs so HELL YES!

Little bugger's just 7 years old, 4'9" and 97lbs. He's going to be a big one!

I'm not even sure that my butt will FIT in those little plastic seats. We'll need somewhat of a generic mount that we'll be able to substitute different aftermarket seats down the road.

I figured you wouldn't mind that :redneck:

One down side of thise seats--they mount totaly different from any of the suspension seats out there. More than likely when that day comes that part of the cage will have to be reworked to accomadate the seats. I have to do the same for my rig here this winter--just a matter of cutting the lower cross tubes and redoing them. Not a real bid deal and (same as yours) won't affect the cage itself (all tubes located below/in front of the seats). Just one of those things that is impossable to do--mainly due to the factor you don't wanna do anything goofy with seat mounts--they gotta stay in place,lol...