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Little Gibby's 45 MB

Well the bad news is--the line I found for the clutch is wrong but in that I was able to figure out the right one.

Its odd though being a "toyota" clutch slave and the internal threads are 7/16x20. But I found one off a ford of all things thats 7/16x20 male end so it can thread right into the slave and 10mm metric on the other side since the master is 10mm (keep it all metric anyways)...
 
So i got the hole cut and the shifter into place to see how it works. So the shift pattern from forward back 4low Neutral 4high 2high. I gotta clean up the intermediate rail and make some pins for that. I am also going to weld a support to the shift tower because it is a little flimsy.
 

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Well the bad news is--the line I found for the clutch is wrong but in that I was able to figure out the right one.

Its odd though being a "toyota" clutch slave and the internal threads are 7/16x20. But I found one off a ford of all things thats 7/16x20 male end so it can thread right into the slave and 10mm metric on the other side since the master is 10mm (keep it all metric anyways)...

Can you drop the p/n's and specs on the master and slave you are using? I'm working on converting the T-90 in my '47 to a hydro setup (now living behind a Ford 2.3L), and I'm struggling to come up with a good combination of readily available parts... I don't want anything custom that can't be replaced (or at least over-nighted) in BFE. Thanks!!
 
Can you drop the p/n's and specs on the master and slave you are using? I'm working on converting the T-90 in my '47 to a hydro setup (now living behind a Ford 2.3L), and I'm struggling to come up with a good combination of readily available parts... I don't want anything custom that can't be replaced (or at least over-nighted) in BFE. Thanks!!

I can do that tonight for ya--granted not 100% on the hose until I get it in a few days but I can certainly help ya out there :awesomework:
 
Here are some #'s for ya


Clutch master-Aisin CMT-041

Clutch slave-dorman CS37215


The hose is supposed to be here tommorow so I will let ya know there..

 
Ok so i got the shifter tower cleaned up and the brace added. I also rebuilt where the 7/16" bolt goes thru that holds the shifter as it was a little sloppy.
 

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Here is another issue i found with the rotating portion of the shifter. There was a small piece of plastic bushing left and wobbly as heck. I searched but there are no serviceable parts out there.
 

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So i took some polly sheet stuff i have and made a new insert. Its pretty snug now.
 

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There ya go....Fully functional tcase shifter assy
 

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So the next few items on the list. Clutch setup---waiting for the hose to show.

Gotta make a mount for the map sensor

Gotta figure out a gas pedal--looking at a few options. And gotta build a bracket on the tbi side once thats figured out.
 
So the next few items on the list. Clutch setup---waiting for the hose to show.

Gotta make a mount for the map sensor

Gotta figure out a gas pedal--looking at a few options. And gotta build a bracket on the tbi side once thats figured out.
Make sure to add a toe hook on the new throttle pedal, you can unstick a hung throttle and save damage & injury!
I try to use a solid linkage or a morse cable for the throttle to eliminate the potential hazards.
 
Make sure to add a toe hook on the new throttle pedal, you can unstick a hung throttle and save damage & injury!
I try to use a solid linkage or a morse cable for the throttle to eliminate the potential hazards.

I prefer to use a stock cable if I can get one to fit--many rigs with no issues to date. Most issues I have seen is due to the clearance at the floor--too little and easy hangups on the pedal.
 
So here are a couple that I am checking out..

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...0&cadevice=m&gclid=CL3dy-v5vcYCFUdufgodBBgLkA

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Billet-Aluminum-Throttle-Pedal,3411.html

There was also one in the stash of parts that I am toying with but I am pretty sure I will have to make a standoff that bolts to the firewall and then the pedal will have to bolt to that due to the firewall.

Regardless I wanna use a factory gm accel cable since they are about the best cable I have ever used.
 
Out of curiosity, what are the reasons why wouldn't you use a morse cable instead?


Because I prefer to use what works and what I have done on a dozen other rigs I have built over the course of 15 years. Plus 25 years in the biz and I have never had a problem with a twisted cable or anything going WOT..

Unless Dale specifies using a cable of that nature I prefer to use what I have soo many times..
 
Not that stiff..

But in regards to that happening unless you train yourself to react in a certain manner no matter what cable you run you will panic and do the wrong thing...

So train yourself to pull up on the throttle or turn a switch...
 
So after a few attempts I could not locate the right hose that would just thread into the clutch slave. So my next choice was to use the original hose I had ordered (Meyle 30-146110053). Its 11x1.mm at the threaded side and 10mm at the other(to use a metic hardline from the hose to the master).

So since the hole in the slave is 7/16x20 and the threaded portion of the hose is 11x1mm I found Edelman fitting 146420 to do whats needed.

It threads right into the slave but here is the slight mod that needs to be done to the hose. The female side of the fitting is 1/8npt so ya just gotta run a 1/8x28 die down the threads on the hose to scrape some of the threads down a tad and it will safely thread right into the edelman fitting.


So I got the system built and bled out and it works perfectly..:awesomework:
 

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That clutch has been the #1 source of issues for years. A couple of clutches, multiple bearings, forks etc.

I am glad that you got this figured out and working!
 

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